Monster Media 1996 #15/Monster Media Number 15 (Monster Media)(July 1996).ISO/health/rfp_9603.zip/RFP-9603.TXT

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Subject: Rec.food.preserving FAQ

Summary: This file contains the shared knowledge and answers to frequently
        asked questions of the group rec.food.preserving.  This is divided
        into 6 parts: part 1-introduction, table of contents, canning;
        part 2-freezing, dehydration, pickling; part 3-smoking and curing,
        distillation, root cellaring, dairy products; part 4-equipment,
        tips 'n tricks; part 5-spoilage; part 6-recipe troubleshooting,
        list of references

Expires:
Supersedes:
Archive name: food/preserving-faq/part1
Posting frequency: monthly (last Sunday of each month)
Last modified: 1996/03/29
Version: 2.7

Part 1 of 6
Version 2.7
Introduction to the Group, Table of Contents, Canning


FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ) in the group rec.food.preserving

This file is a compliation of shared knowledge and answers to frequently
asked questions of the group rec.food.preserving.  As such, this file is
updated.  Be a contributor--point out mistakes, write sections and reviews,
provide us with new sources.  All contributors will be cited in this file.


Contributors listed in alphabetical order:
David G. Allbee, Matt Albright, Leslie Basel, Rachel Beckford, Jean Bergeron,
Brian Bigler, Michael Boddy, Mike Bowers, Susan Brewer, Norman Brown, Teresa
Bruckner, Rick Buchanan, Daniel Burke, Dave Calhoun, Tracy L. Carter, Robert
Chislan, Naomi Counides, Emily Dashiell, Richard De Castro, Diane Ferrell,
Sandy Fifer, Derace Fridel, H. B. Ghoddusi, Anne Louise Gockel, Lois Grassl,
Patrick Grealish, Kate Gregory, Steve Gunnell, Bess Halle, Diane Hamilton,
James Harvey, Patricia Hill, M. Zoe Holbrooks, Dirk W. Howard, Garry Howard,
Imogen, Kevin Johnson, Stuart Johnson, Lynn E. Johnson-Conrad, Kai, Mary
James Harvey, Patricia Hill, M. Zoe Holbrooks, Dirk W. Howard, Garry Howard,
Imogen, Kevin Johnson, Stuart Johnson, Lynn E. Johnson-Conrad, Kai, Mary
Keith, Naera Kim, Betty Kohler, Steven Kostur, Mick Kunstelj, John Laidler,
Joan Lane, Larry London, Ron Lowe, Linda Magee, Marie Martinek, Kathy Meade,
Ron Meisenheimer, Linda Merinoff, Wendy Milner, Joshua H. Moffi, the Morgans,
Jean P. Nance, Richard Nielsen, Hank Nolle, Stephen Northcutt, Nicole Okun,
Paul Optiz, Lynn Otto, David Paxton, Gary Lee Phillips, Kim Pratt, Cassandra
Richardson, Jim Richardson, Phil Rozanski, Barb Schaller, David Schwoegler,
Clint Scott, Charles Scripter, Brenda Sharpe, David Sidwell, Doug Smart, Tom
Sponheim, Michael Stallcup, Susan Hattie Steinsapir, Jean Sumption, John
Taylor, Michael Teifel, Connie TenClay, Richard Thead, Steven Tobin, Logan
VanLeigh, Elaine C. White, Ellen Wickberg, Wolfgang, Gary Yandle, Z Pegasus,
Bobbi Zee, Zlotka

Last Updated: 3-29-1996
Version 2.7

(C) Copyright 1996  Leslie Basel, Diane Ferrell, Anne Louise Gockel, Steven
Kostur, Richard Thead.  All rights reserved.  You may use and copy this file
as long as the contributors' names and this copyright remains intact.
Plagarism is naughty, even on the Internet.

While every effort has been made to be clear, concise, and accurate, no
warranties are implied.  What you do with the information presented here
is your business.

CHARTER

Rec.food.preserving is a newsgroup devoted to the discussion of recipes,
equipment, and techniques of food preservation.  Current food preservation
techniques that rightly should be discussed in this forum include canning,
freezing, dehydration, pickling, smoking, salting, distilling, and potting.
Foodstuffs are defined as produce (both fruits and vegetables), meat, fish,
dairy products, culinary and medicinal herbs.  Discussions should be limited
to home-grown or home-preserved foods.


[I have a refrigerator and live near 5 supermarkets.  Why bother to preserve
food?]

If you have a successful garden or orchard, have a hunting or fishing
license, like to gather wild foods, or know friends and neighbors that do,
you will eventually be presented with an abundance of free foodstuffs.
(Check out the zucchini and the green tomato recipes in pickling for two
common surpluses.)  U-Pick sites, roadside stands, and farmers markets sell
unusual varieties of produce at close to perfect ripeness, ready to be pre-
served.  Even supermarket produce in season is abundant, cheap, and can be
worth preserving.

If you have ever walked into an upscale food store, you might have noticed
that dried foods, exotic jams, chutneys, marmalades, flavored vinegars and
oils, pickles, cheeses, cured and smoked meats, etc, all are expensive
preserved foods.  However, these items can be all be duplicated at home,
given the ingredients, expertise, and time.  And all of these foods make
terrific gifts.

Commercially processed food can contain many ingredients that you might
want to avoid, anything from MSG, BHA, BHT, to salt, sugar, or starchy
thickeners.  By preserving food yourself, you can control your diet.

Into recycling and reducing your garbage?  If you can, you reuse your glass
jars and rings, throwing away just the lids.  However, most techniques
require a fair amount of fresh clean water, and take some time, so they
aren't quite as cost saving as you might think.

Waiting for the apocalypse?  What if you get hungry?  On a more serious
note, wouldn't you have wanted some home-preserved stuff while you were
waiting out that last blizzard?

Food preserving is fun.  Many preserving recipes are family traditions,
passed on through many generations.  Often, the foods we preserve can tell
us much about our past, so trading recipes can tell us about each other.

=========================================================================
=========================================================================

TABLE OF CONTENTS

 0.   Charter and Introduction   (part 1)

 I.   The techniques of food preserving   (parts 1, 2, 3)

   A.  Canning   (part 1)

      1. General Questions
        - What do I *really* need to know about canning?
        - I made/got some home-preserved foods as a gift.  How do I
          check them for safety?
        - Is home canning safe?
        - What foods can be canned, and what foods shouldn't be canned?
        - What does canning entail?
        - Where do I get the Ball Blue Book?
        - What if my recipe doesn't have processing instructions?

      Recipe Templates and Tricks
        - "Scientific" low sugar jams
        - Fruit Butters in general, apple butter in particular
        - Marmalade
        - Tea Jelly
        - Flower Jelly
        - Canning Cake

      2. General Equipment Questions
        - What kind of equipment do I need to can foods at home?  Don't
          you need a lot of stuff?
        - My grandmother always reused commercial jars and sealed her jars
          using paraffin. Should I do this too?
        - What about zinc rings, rubber sealed jars, and other great but
          antique canning equipment?
        - Ball or Kerr?
        - Rings on the jar, or off?
        - I'm really cheap.  How can I reuse my old canning lids?
        - How do I use a pressure canner safely and effectively?
        - I need some good sources for pectins...
        - I'd like some sources for non-standard size canning jars, decor-
          ative bottles, large sized rings, and other items that I just
          can't find in the usual places.

      3. Troubleshooting
        - My jars refuse to seal! Some of my preserved food is turning
          colors! What is happening?
        - My jams and jellies didn't set.  How can I reprocess?

   B.  Freezing   (part 2)

      1. General Questions
        - What do I *really* need to know about freezing?
        - So what foods can be frozen well?
        - What's this blanching stuff, anyway?
        - How do I freeze (your item here), and how long can I reasonably
          expect it to keep?


   C.  Dehydration   (part 2)

      1. General Questions (compliments of Steven Kostur)
        - What do I *really* need to know about dehydrating food?
        - What foods dehydrate well?
        - Dehydrating Specific Items.
                - Pistachio Nut (and other seeds)
                - Sundried tomato
                - Dried Cranberries
                - Jerky
                - Dehydrator Tomato Paste
                - Parched Corn and Beans

      2. General Equipment Questions (compliments of Steven Kostur)
        - I need some advice on a dehydrator. What should I look for?
                - General Advice
                - Specific Brands
        - I've heard you can make a dehydrator yourself. Got any info?

   D.  Pickling   (part 2)

      1. General Questions
        - What do I *really* need to know about pickling?
        - What pickle styles are there?
        - What is the process for making dill pickles?
        - What makes pickles kosher?

      2. General Equipment Questions
        - What does it take to make pickles?  Do you need special equip-
          ment?
        - What's a non-reactive container?

      3. Troubleshooting
        - I followed this pickle recipe, but they don't look like they do
          in the store.  What happened?  Can I still eat them?

      4. Recipes
        - Transylvanian salt-cured vegetables
        - Real New York deli pickles
        - Kimchee (3 recipes)
        - Zucchini relish
        - Dill Tomolives

   E.  Curing with Salt, Sugar, or Lye   (part 3)
        - What do I *really* need to know about curing foods, and what
          makes this different from pickling?

   F.  Smoking   (part 3)
        - What do I *really* need to know about smoking food?

      1. Meat Curing and Smoking (compliments of Richard Thead)

       Curing
        - Why is meat cured?
        - What is osmosis?
        - What is meant by "the danger zone"?
        - What is botulism?
        - What are the commonly used curing compounds?
        - Where can these compounds be obtained?
        - What is spray pumping?
        - What's trichinosis?
        - If my cured pork doesn't reach a safe temperature, what about
          trichinosis?
        - What about dry-curing sausages and meats?

       Smoking
        - What is the difference between smoke cooking and curing?
        - What are the proper temperatures for smoke cooking meat?
        - How important is temperature control during smoke curing?
        - Is closing down the air inlet dampers a good way to keep the
          temperature down?
        - What are the various woods used for smoking?
:)      - Rick, do you have any politically incorrect views about smoke
          cooking that you enjoy getting flamed about?

       Specific Foods
        - Can I make a Smithfield Ham at home?
        - How do I make my own bacon at home?
        - How do I make my own corned beef?
        - What is pastrami and how do I make my own?
        - How do I make beef jerky?

       Other Sources and References

      2. Vegetable/Fish Curing and Smoking
        - How do I cure olives?
        - What are 1000 year old preserved eggs?
        - What is posole?
        - Sugar curing and candying items
                - Candying fruits
                - Candying flowers
        - How do I smoke chiles?
        - What do I need to know about smoking a fish?
                - Smoked Salmon
                - Lox, Nova Lox, and Gravlax

   G.  Potting   (part 3)
        - What is potting anyway?
        - How do I render lard?  Which pieces of pork fat should I use?

   H.  Distilling   (part 3)
        - What is distilling anyway?
        - How do I make vinegar from wine?
        - How do I make flavored vinegars?
        - How do I make flavored oils?
        - Garlic (chiles, herbs, sundried tomatoes, etc) and oil.
        - Fruit cordials
        - Vanilla Extract
        - Dandelion wine

   I.  Root Cellaring and Storage of Staples   (part 3)
        - What do I *really* need to know about root cellaring?
        - How can I preserve staples (flour, etc) for long term storage?
                - The dry ice method
                - Packing in nitrogen gas

   J.  Preserving Dairy Products   (part 3)
        - Where can I find rennet?  And other cheesemaking items?
        - Butter
        - Devonshire Clotted Cream
        - Stirred Curd-Cheddar Recipe


 II.  Specific Equipment Questions   (part 4)

   A.  Canners and Canning Equipment
        - I see canners of different sizes. Why get the biggest one?
        - I got this pressure canner (not cooker!) as a gift.  How do I
          take care of it?
        - Weight "jiggle" problems.
        - Cleaning my pressure canner.
        - Where can I find canning equipment parts?
        - What about zinc rings, rubber sealed jars, and other great,
          but antique canning equipment?

   B.  Dehydrators
        - Where can I find a premade dehydrator?
        - Where can I find plans for homemade dehydrators?

   C.  Smokers
        - Where can I find plans for a homemade smoker?


 III. Tips 'N Tricks    (part 4)

        - Fruit Fly Trap
        - Wax paper trick
        - Chopping citrus peels for marmalade
        - Tips and Tricks for Drying Foods in the Oven
        - Cheesecloth for skimming brine
        - How can I make kimchee without complaints from the neighbors?
        - Using Ascorbic Acid
        - Sealing jars with Paraffin
        - How to reach the Jelly Stage/The Fork Test
        - Sources of Wood chips

 IV.  Spoilage, Especially Botulism   (part 5)

        - Okay, I've got some bad jars. What's growing in them?  How can I
          dispose of them?
        - Botulism.  What is it? (file from the FDA)
        - I'm confused about when the toxin is produced.  Tell me more
          about the bacterium.
        - How can I be positively, absolutely sure that those spores are
          killed?

 V.   Recipe Cavaets and Troubleshooting   (part 6)

        - I just got a recipe from rec.food.preserving that I'd like to try.
        - Most of the recipe measurements posted here are not metric.  Can
          you help me?
        - Help!  What's a peck?  Uncommon English measurements.
        - I got some recipes from my grandparents.  Are they safe?  How can
          I make them safe?


 VI.  Other Sources (besides this FAQ)   (part 6)

        - This FAQ doesn't tell me what I need to know!
          General Reference Books
          Specific Techniques and Interests
          Books and Guides to Equipment
          Food Preserving Books of Historic Interest
          Pamphets
          Magazines
          Phone
          Internet Sites

==========================================================================
==========================================================================


A. CANNING


1. GENERAL QUESTIONS

A.1.1  [What do I *really* need to know about canning?]

Basically, canning food is preserving food by: 1) placing it in an hermet-
ically sealable container, then 2) applying a heat treatment that will
destroy microorganisms and inactivate enzymes that would spoil the product
or render it unsafe. (from Jean Bergeron, foodchemist, <[e-mail].
qc.ca>).  A partial vacuum is created by a change in pressure caused by
heating, then cooling said sealable cans and jars--Boyle's Law (PV=nRT) in
action.  The heat is generally created by either a boiling waterbath or a
pressure canner (Boyle's Law again).

What you absolutely need to know is whether your product is highly acidic
in a boiling waterbath; relatively low acid foods, like vegetables and meats,
need to be pressure canned.  You also need to know what your altitude is,
because the higher you are, the lower the boiling temperature of water.
Since you are creating an anerobic state, you need to be concerned about
_C. botulinum_ toxin.


A.1.2  [I made/got some home-preserved foods as a gift.  How do I check
them for safety?]
----
EXAMINE ALL HOME-CANNED FOODS BEFORE USING THEM.
1.   Inspect the can before opening:
          Glass jars: metal lids should be firm and flat or
          curved slightly inward.  There should be no sign of
          leakage around the rubber sealing compound.  If there
          is mold growth around the exterior neck of the jar--
          there may be mold growth inside.  Check for signs of
          "gassiness"--floating food, bubbles rising in the food,
          swollen lid.

2.   As the jar is opened, notice whether there is an inrush or
     an outrush of air.  Air rushing out or liquid spurting out
     indicates spoilage.

3.   Smell the contents at once.  The odor should be
     characteristic of the food.  An "off" odor probably means
     spoilage (acid, acrid, sour, putrid, etc.).

4.   Check the food carefully to see that it appears to have a
     characteristic texture and color.  Liquids in all foods
     should be clear.  Any change from the natural texture and/or
     color indicates spoilage.  DO NOT TASTE ANY QUESTIONABLE
     FOOD.

5.   Discard canned food with signs of spoilage.
          a.   High acid foods (fruit) may be discard in the
               garbage or disposal.

          b.   Low acid food (vegetables, meat, fish, poultry)
               must be discarded more carefully because it could
               contain botulinal toxin.  Discard the spoiled food
               carefully using one of the following methods.  Be
               careful not to contaminate your work area by
               spilling the food.  Wear rubber gloves before
               handling food or containers.

                    1.   Boil at full rolling boil for 20
                         minutes.  Discard.

                    2.   Burn.

                    3.   Mix with 1-2 Tbsp household lye or 1 cup
                         chlorine bleach in non-metal container
                         and let stand overnight.  Flush down the
                         toilet, discard in garbage or garbage
                         disposal.

                    Note:  any containers or utensils that come
                    in contact with spoiled canned should be
                    carefully washed.  Use soap and water to wash
                    containers used for high acid foods.
                    Containers that come into contact with low
                    acid foods should be sterilized with chlorine
                    bleach or boiled for 20 minutes.  Discard all
                    lids, screw bands, wash cloths, sponges and
                    rubber gloves used during detoxifying low
                    acid foods.

6.   As a safety precaution, boil all low acid foods (meats,
     fish, poultry, vegetables) BEFORE TASTING.  Boiling destroys
     the botulinal toxin should it be present.
          a.   Boil most vegetables for 10 minutes (full rolling
               boil).

          b.   Boil thick vegetables (spinach) for 20 minutes.

          c.   Boil meat, fish and poultry for 15 minutes.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/July, 1990
EHE-682
----

A.1.3  [Is home canning safe?]

Only two home-canning (processing) techniques are considered safe.  The
boiling waterbath process is used for high-acid (low pH) foods like fruit,
while pressure canning is used to process low-acid foods such as vegetables.
Open kettle canning, oven canning, crockpot canning, compost canning, can-
ning with pills, microwave canning, dishwasher canning, steam canning (don't
confuse with pressure canning) are all outdated or disreputable canning
techniques.


A.1.4  [What foods can be canned, and what foods shouldn't be canned?]

Foods considered high acid (pH lower than 4.6/4.7) can be boiling waterbath
canned.  This next chart is reworked from _Putting Food By_.

Foods at pH 2.0-3.0== lemons, gooseberries, underripe plums
Foods at pH 3.0-3.5== ripe plums, underripe apples, ripe oranges and grape-
        fruit, strawberries, rhubarb, blackberries, cherries, raspberries,
        blueberries, very underripe peaches and apricots
Foods at pH 3.5-4.0== ripe apples, oranges, grapefruit, overripe black-
        berries, cherries, raspberries, and peaches, ripe apricots, under-
        ripe pears, pineapple, sauerkraut, (other pickles?)
Foods at pH 4.0-4.6 (BORDERLINE)==tomatoes, figs

Above 4.6 or so, must be pressure canned.

Foods at 4.6-5.0==some tomatoes, depends on the variety.  (Green tomatoes
        are below 4.6). pimentoes, pumpkin.  USDA suggests that pumpkin
        butter cannot be canned safely.
Foods at 5.0-6.0==carrots, beets, squash, beans, spinach, cabbage, turnips,
        peppers, sweet potatoes, asparagus, mushrooms, white potatoes
Foods at 6.0-7.0==peas, tuna, lima beans, corn, meats, cow's milk, salmon,
        oysters, shrimp.
Above 7.0==hominy, black olives (each are lye cured).  Leave these to the
pros.

Need to also consider the size of your jars (half gallon size jars are made,
are canning.  Pumpkin/squash purees and butters, and refried beans probably
shouldn't be canned--it will take a long time to get the center of the jar
hot enough.  However, squash and pumpkin chunks (raw pack) can be pressure
canned, however.


A.1.5  [What does canning entail?]

These are two sample recipes, just to give a general idea of what is invol-
ved, one is for a waterbath treatment, the other involves pressure canning.
Both of these recipe files are taken from Susan Brewer's fact sheets--at
the cesgopher.uiuc.edu site.
----
CANNING FRUITS (PEACHES)

   Fresh fruit for home canning should be at the peak of ripeness--
they should have lost their greenish color and should yield slightly
when squeezed.  Fruit should be prepared (peeled, trimmed), treated to
prevent browning, and hot-packed to exhaust air and make fruit more
pliable.  Hot-packing will help prevent fruit from floating in the syrup.
Prepare syrup, hot pack fruit and water bath can.  Use USDA
Complete Canning Guidelines or "Canning Card" (EHE-660) for
processing time.

Recommended Quantities:
   Peaches, apples, pears:
       17 1/2 lb fresh = 7 qt.  ll b = 9 qt.
       1 bushel = 48 lb = 16-24 qt  (2 1/2 lb per quart)
   Berries: 1 1/2-3 lb (1-2 qt) fresh = 1 quart canned
   Plums: 1 1/2-2 1/2 lb fresh = 1 quart canned

Preparing Jars

   1.  Wash jars by hand or in dishwasher.  Rinse well.
   2.  Prepare lids according to manufacturer's directions.

Preparing Peaches

   1.  Wash peaches under running water.
   2.  Skin removal (peaches, apricots):
       a.  Dip peaches in boiling water for 30-60 seconds.
       b.  Dip in cold (ice) water to stop heat treatment.  Do not
           soak--remove immediately.
   3.  Cut peaches in halves, remove pits, slice if desired.
   4.  To prevent darkening put slices in any of these antidarkening
       solutions
       a.  a solution of 1 tsp or 3000 mg. of vit. C/ gallon of
           water.
       b.  a citric acid or lemon juice solution (1tsp citric acid
           USP grade or 3/4 cup lemon juice / gallon of water.
       c.  a commercial antioxidant solution.
   5.  Remove from antidarkening solution and drain just before
       heating or raw packing

   6.  Syrup
       a.  Sugar
           Thin: 2 cups sugar to 4 cups water
           Medium:  3 cups sugar to 4 cups water
           Heavy: 4 1/2 cups sugar to 4 cups water (fruit may
           float)
       b.  Honey: 1 1/2 cups honey to 4 cups water
           Thin honey: 3/4 cup honey, 3/4 cup sugar, 4 cups
           water.
       c.  Corn syrup:
           Thin: 1 c corn syrup, 1 c sugar, 4 c water
           Medium: 1 1/2 c corn syrup, 1 c sugar, 4 c water
           Heavy: 2 c corn syrup, 2 1/2 c sugar, 4 c water
       d.  Fruit juice: pineapple, apple, etc.
       h.  Water: fruit may fall apart during processing.

   7.  Pack
       a.  Hot pack: heat fruit and syrup or water to boiling, then
           pack.
       b.  Raw pack:  do not heat fruit prior to filling jars.
       c.  Pie pack:  heat fruit in sugar only, no sugar, until juice
           drawn from fruit nearly covers fruit. Heat slowly to
           prevent scorching. Fill jars with hot mixture and
           process as for hot pack fruit.

   8.  Overlap fruit pieces in jars to minimize air spaces.
   9.  Work out air bubbles with plastic or wooden utensil.
   10. Add liquid (syrup, fruit juice, water) leaving 1/2 inch of
       headspace.
   11. Wipe off jar rims thoroughly to make sure the sealing
       surface is clean and free from fruit or sugar which would
       prevent sealing.

Processing Procedure:

   1.  Place filled jars on rack in canner so they don't touch sides.
   2.  Add hot water until the level is 1-2" over jar tops.
   3.  Place the lid on the canner and bring to a boil.
   4.  Start timing the canner when the water returns to a full
       boil.
   5.  Add more hot water as needed to keep level 1-2" over jar
       tops.
   6.  Process according to USDA Guidelines, see "Canning Card"
       (EHE-660)

Cooling Jars:
   1.  At the end of the processing time, remove the jars from the
       canner without disturbing lids or bands.
   2.  Place jars right side up on towel or rack away from drafts.
   3.  DO NOT tighten screw bands.
   4.  Lids will seal in 12-24 hours as they cool.

Checking Seals:

   1.  Jar is sealed if lid is depressed in center and does not move.
   2.  Remove screw bands from sealed jars, wash off any syrup
       which may have boiled out during processing, and store jars.
   3.  Unsealed jars should be reprocessed with new lids, or
       refrigerated and used within a few days.

Storing Home-Canned Fruits:

   1.  Remove screw bands from sealed jars.
   2.  Wipe jars with warm, sudsy water and dry (do not disturb
       lid).
   3.  Label and date.
   4.  Store in clean, cool (less than 90 F), dark, dry place.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992
EHE-663
----
Tomato-Vegetable Juice Blends

Tomatoes are a somewhat acid food.  To make them safe for home
canning ACID MUST BE ADDED. To each quart jar of tomatoes or
tomato juice, 2 Tbsp of lemon juice, or 4 Tbsp of 5% vinegar, or
1/2 tsp of citric acid must be added.  When adding vegetables,
which are low in acid, the instructions must be followed exactly.

You may add less vegetable, but you must not add more vegetable
than the recipe calls for.  You may adjust the spices and
seasonings to your taste, for example more or less pepper, add a
little tabasco, or more sugar.   And, you may vary the kinds of
vegetables as long as you do not add more than three cups total
vegetables to 7 quarts of juice.  For example, you may use 2 cups
of onions and 1 cup of celery, or 1 cup each of green pepper,
onion, and carrots.  But no more than 3 cups total of vegetables
will be safe.

An average of 22 pounds of tomatoes is needed per canner load of
7 quarts.

Preparation for Canning:

1.   Wash jars by hand or in dishwasher. Rinse well.
2.   Prepare lids according to manufacturer's directions.
3.   Put 2 to 3 inches of water in pressure canner, or 5 to 7
     inches of water in boiling water bath canner. Be sure canner
     has rack.
4.   Start water heating. It should be hot but not boiling when
     the jars go in.

Prepare juice:

1.   Wash tomatoes and vegetables under running water. Trim and
     discard any bruised or discolored sections.
2.   Chop carrots, onions, celery and green peppers, or your
     preferred combinations. For 7 quarts of juice you may add up
     to 3 cups of chopped vegetables.
3.   To prevent juice from separating, quickly cut about 1 pound
     of fruit into quarters and put directly into saucepan.  Heat
     immediately to boiling while crushing.  Continue to slowly
     add and crush fresh tomato quarters into the boiling
     mixture.  Make sure the mixture boils constantly while you
     add the remaining tomatoes.
4.   Add the chopped vegetables to the boiling tomatoes.
5.   Add sugar, salt, and spices.  For 7 quarts of juice, a
     mixture of 1/3 C sugar, 1/4 C salt, 1 Tbsp celery seed and
     1/8 tsp cayenne pepper is a good combination.
6.   Simmer mixture for 20 minutes.
7.   Press hot mixture through a sieve or food mill to remove
     skins and seeds.
8.   Reheat juice to boiling.

Fill jars:

1.   Add 2 Tbsp lemon juice (or alternatives-see above) to each
     quart jar.
2.   Fill boiling juice into jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace.
3.   Wipe top sealing edge of jar with a clean damp towel.
4.   Adjust 2-piece canning lids. Tighten ring bands using thumb
     and two fingers until just snug, then using whole hand,
     tighten 1/4 turn further.

Processing:

1.   Place jars on rack in canner so that they do not touch
     sides.
2.   Add hot water to boiling water bath if necessary to bring
     water 1 inch over tops of jars.
3.   Cover canner, or lock pressure canner lid into place.
4.   Turn up heat.
5.   Process:
     Boiling water bath canner: when water reaches full boil,
     begin to count processing time.  Set timer for specified
     time.
     Pressure canner: When steady stream of steam issues from
     vent, set timer and allow to exhaust steam for 10 minutes.
     After 10 minutes, close petcock or put weighted pressure
     regulator on vent.  When dial gauge reads 11 psig, or when
     weight begins to rock or hiss at manufacturer's stated rate,
     set timer for specified processing time, and gradually
     reduce heat to maintain proper pressure.
6.   Add water to boiling water canner if necessary to maintain
     proper depth.

  PROCESSING TIMES for canning in Illinois:
  Boiling Water     Pressure Canner (10/11 psig)
  Pints             35 minutes     15 minutes
  Quarts            40 minutes     15 minutes

After processing time is complete:

1.   Remove canner from heat. Allow pressure to drop to zero.
     Wait 3 more minutes. Open canner with lid away from you to
     avoid steam in your face.
2.   Remove jars from canner. Place upright on rack to cool away
     from drafts.
3.   Do Not Tighten ring bands. They will tighten as they cool.
4.   After 12-24 hrs check seals. Center of lid should be
     depressed and not give when touched. A tap with a spoon
     should give a clear ring.
5.   Remove ring bands, wipe with warm sudsy water, rinse, label
     and store.
6.   Unsealed jars may be reprocessed, or refrigerated.

Prepared by Mary A. Keith, Foods and Nutrition, July, 1991
Revised by M. Susan Brewer, Foods and Nutrition, June, 1992
EHE-692
----

A.1.6  [Where do I get the Ball Blue Book?]

Most of the food preservation sources are in the back of this FAQ, but the
Ball Blue Book (BBB) is the great canning classic of all time (unless you
have the Kerr Canning Guide).  First time canners are *well* advised to
pick up a copy.  Places where you can order or find a copy are: order form
on the lid box in a fresh case of Ball canning jars; sometimes the hard-
ware store or the Walmart where you picked up the case of jars will also
have a copy for sale nearby. I got mine in a used bookstore (check the
copyright date, you want one less than ten years old).  New info from hjbe
@conch.aa.msen.com; can order the BBB by phone, the number is 1-800-859-2255.
From the Great Pumpkin; a reliable address for ordering the BBB is: Direct
Marketing, CB/ Alltrista Corporation/ P.O. Box 2005/ Muncie IN 47307-0005.


A.1.7  [What if my recipe doesn't have processing instructions?]

Check out the section in this FAQ entitled Recipe Cavaets and Trouble-
shooting.  Or follow the recipe, and simply refrigerate the results.

A.1.8  [Specific Recipes and Tips for Unusual Canned Items.]

These are templates which can give you ideas for unusual gifts, or really
unusual jams and jellies.  YMMV.


1. [What is the scientific formula for making jam/jellies? --Mary Going]

From our expert in low sugar jams, Sandy Fifer <[e-mail]>:
I have a very general formula that works well for me.  First, I check
_Putting_Food_By_ to see what the acid content is for the particular
fruit and use lemon juice to increase the acidity accordingly.  (If
it's not acid enough [pH 4.6] I add up to 3 Tbsp. lemon juice per 5 cups
of fruit.)  Second, I use Pomona's Universal Pectin so that the jelling
does not depend on the amount of sugar used.

So, for jam, here's my recipe: (check the Proportions list for quantities)

Prepare fruit: pit cherries, de-stone and remove cores from nectarines,
   pears, etc., de-skin by dipping in boiling water if necessary.

Puree fruit--shorter time if you like some lumps (fruit identity), longer
   if you like it smoother.  Since this is jam and not jelly it will have
   body and not be the translucent jell commercially available.

Combine 5 cups of fruit, 1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar, 2T lemon juice, and use 1
   1/2 to 2 1/2 tsp. each of pectin and calcium, prepared according to the
   package.  This yields 4 to 5 1/2 cups jam, depending on loss during
   cooking: some fruits foam up (raspberries), some are thick and spit all
   over the kitchen while heating (nectarines and pears).

Remember, this is a very general recipe.  Also, I like a minimum of sugar,
just enough to bring out the taste of the fruit.  With some fruits I add
ginger (e.g. pears) or lemon zest (e.g. blueberries).

I cook the puree until it reaches a full boil--this can take 10 to 20 min-
utes depending on how high the heat is and how thick the fruit.  I'm cook-
ing to heat it thoroughly, not to reduce it or develop pectin.  You bring
the jam to a full boil.  This means that you stir the puree around and as
soon as you remove the spoon all the puree immediately starts to boil again.
At this point there's no need to cook it further--you can proceed to the
pectin step.

When it reaches the full boil, add the pectin, sugar and calcium according
to the directions.  You have to experiment to determine how much sugar you
want, and how thick you want the resulting jam.  Then I water-bath can the
jam for six minutes.  Having brought the jam to a full boil allows you to
process it for such a short time.

I believe that if you follow this recipe you will end up with, at the mini-
mum, a really good batch of jam, even taking into account the variation in
tastes.  You might want to tinker with it some to suit your own particular
taste.  I've never had an inedible failure.  In the beginning I had some
jams that were too thick or thin, but they tasted fine, and I kept notes
and corrected the recipe the following year.

I buy high quality fruit and use it when it's just ripe.  I don't care about
the cost of the fruit because it's more important to me to have a delicious
end-product.  Using fruit that's moldy or past its prime is a bad idea.
Some mold can survive the canning process.

Once opened, low-sugar jams have a shorter shelf-life than high-sugar com-
mercial jams, even when refrigerated.  My raspberry jam lasts about three
weeks (not sure why) and the other fruits last about four to six weeks.

Basically my jam tastes like pureed fruit (in fact to make fruit sauce for
toppings I use the same recipe and just leave out the pectin and calcium)
and is as close as I can come to preserving summer.

---Proportions, from Sandy Fifer <[e-mail]> ---
I decided to type in my recipes for all the jams I've made.  Remember, these
depend on using Pomona's Universal Pectin, which doesn't require sugar to
set the jam.  And one box of Pomona's will last for 3 to 5 batches of jam
(where one batch equals 5 cups of fruit).

Pureed fruit           Sugar    Lemon juice   # tsp. *each* of  Optional
                                              pectin & calcium

Strawberries: 5 c.     7/8 c.   2 Tbsp.       2 tsp.
Raspberries: 5 1/2 c.  2/3 c.   2 Tbsp.       2 tsp.
Cherries: 5 c.         1/2 c.   2 Tbsp.       1 3/4 tsp.
Marionberries: 6 c.    3/4 c.   2 Tbsp.       1 3/4 tsp.
Blueberries: 5 c.      1/2 c.   2 Tbsp.       1 1/2 tsp.      lemon zest
Peaches: 5 c.          1/2 c.   2 Tbsp.       2 tsp.
Plums: 5 c.            3/4 c.   2 Tbsp.       2 tsp.
Apricots: 5 c.         1/2 c.   2 1/2 Tbsp.   2 1/4 tsp.
Pears: 6 c.            1/2 c.   2 1/2 Tbsp.   2 1/2 tsp.      1 tsp. fresh
                                                             ginger, grated

Yield: 4 to 6 cups of jam, depending on conditions.


2. [Fruit butters in general, and apple butter in particular..]

From: Barb Schaller <[e-mail]>
Re cooking and doneness of fruit butters, this from Farm Journal Freezing
and Canning Cookbook, Doubleday, 1964:  "1).  Measure the pulp and sugar
into a large kettle; add the salt.  Boil rapidly, stirring constantly to
prevent scorching.  As the butter becomes thick, lower heat to reduce
spattering.  2).  Add spices and lemon juice, if used.  3)  **Continue
cooking until butter is thick enough almost to flake off the spoon, or as
Grandmother used to say: "Until it is thick enough to spread." Another
test for consistency is to pour a tablespoon of the hot butter onto a
chilled plate -- if no rim of liquid forms around the edge of the butter,
it is ready for canning.***  4) Pour into hot jars and seal.  Process
pints and quarts in hot-water bath 10 minutes.

That said, let me say this about that:  This is not a fast project.  Time
and patience are everything.  I do not bring my pulp to boil over high
heat; medium high at best, watching and stirring diligently to it won't
stick and scorch.  Then reduce the heat!  A mesh spatter shield is inval-
uable to me when I do this because the pulp thickens as the liquid evapo-
rates; as the pulp thickens the spattering increases; covering the pan to
protect from spattering hinders evaporation.  The closer you think you are
to "done," the more attention you'll want to give it.  Too-fast cooking at
too high a heat will caramelize the sugar in the recipe and leave you with
something akin to jam.  Trust me on this; I've ruined more than one batch
of apricot butter in my time.  Additionally, I'd process them longer than
the 10 minutes, especially if the butter is less than boiling when it's put
into the jars -- I had a couple of jars not seal.  The butter is dense and
takes longer to heat through to ensure the seal.

The butter can also be baked (a fine alternative, especially if you're
in a cool climate and welcome the warmth of the oven).  Pour the seasoned
and sweetened pulp into a shallow (9x13 inch pan minimum) pan -- or a
shallow roasting pan.  Bake at about 325 degrees F until thick, stirring
every 20-30 minutes so an evaporation-induced crust doesn't form on the top.

Not as complicated as it might look.  Wonderful treat.  Worth the effort.

Apple Butter Recipe
It's what I did.  And I actually *measured* things.  :-)

12 cups apple pulp (I used locally grown Haralsons)
3 to 4 cups sugar (begin with 3, I added the 4th to my taste)
3 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. groung nutmeg
1/8 tsp. freshly ground allspice
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/4 tsp. ground cloves (do not overdo cloves; taste can be overwhelming)
1/4 cup white vinegar

Make pulp:  Core but do not peel apples.  Cook slowly with about an inch
or two of water added, stirring to prevent sticking.  Put through a food
mill to make pulp.  If you use more water and boil the heck out of them,
do drain in a colander to eliminate the extra liquid.

Measure pulp into at least a 6-quart dutch oven, stir in remaining
ingredients and cook slowly, uncovered, for several hours to desired
thickness. Feel free to correct the spices to your taste; adding in
cautious amounts. Can in hot, sterilized jars, process in boiling water
bath maybe 20 minutes.

If my schedule requires it, I make it a two-day project.  It sits fine
overnight, covered.

Use imaginatively:  I use as a condiment as often as a bread spread; we like
it with roast pork or chops.  I swirl it into my cream cheese coffee cake
filling.  If it's thick enough, fill a cookie with it.


3. [Anyone out there have a recipe, or any tips for marmalade?]

From: Patricia Hill <[e-mail]>.  My recipe for blood oranges or for
any of the citrus fruit marmalades is easy.

Citrus marmalade

Use lemon, limes, grapefruit, kumquat, oranges, tangerines, ugly fruit,
tangelos

Mix the fruit if you please or keep separate.
Cut the fruit in halves or quarters and add water to barely cover.  Simmer
for 1 1/2 hours, adding water as needed.  Remove the fruit from the water.
Cut into thin shreds, chop or however you like it.  I like thin shreds and
find it is easier for me to do it AFTER cooking.  My sister-in-law likes to
cut it BEFORE cooking.

Add the fruit shreds back into the water.  Measure the fruit and water mix-
ture.  For every cup you have add

3/4 cup sugar

Cook over a hot flame until it reaches the jelly stage. Put in clean jars
and seal.

After it has jelled, you can add a little flavor.  Lime marmalade with a
little Club Raki (a licorice flavored liquor) is great.  Lemons with a bit
of scotch is good.  Orange with a little Kirsch.  This makes a firm mar-
malade so you can actually dilute it a little.  If you want more flavor-
ings, add them to the pot before it jells.

Once we went to the store and bought some of every different type of citrus
fruit they had.  We cooked each fruit in a separate pot.  After cutting we
mixed the shreds in all sorts of combinations.  We made some chunky and
some thin shred.  We put all sorts of flavorings in.  They were all good.


4. [Tea jelly.]

from Michael Teifel <[e-mail]>:  I made a half litre Earl
Grey tea 4 times stronger than normal.  And I simply added 500 grams of a
commercially available sugar/pectin mixture and followed the instructions
for making jelly out of juices.  It tastes real good, nearly the same taste
of the jelly from the mail order tea shop I tasted before.  The next time
I will reduce the amount of sugar so that the tea flavour will be stronger.

for a second batch:
I made 250 ml of green gunpowder tea with mint flavour (4 times stronger,
it means 4 times more tea, not 4 times longer brewing).  Then I added 150
grams of a 1:2 mixture of the sugar/pectin box (1:2 means that you have
more pectin and less sugar in the mixture, so the jelly results in more
fruity flavour) and added a few pine nuts. (This tea is my favourite, in
Tunesia it is very common drink: chinese green tea with mint and pine nuts.)
Then I followed the instructions, and it gave a very good tea jelly with a
fresh flavour of mint!

[N.B.  You might want to add a bit of lemon juice/apple juice for safety.
--LEB]


5. [Flower jellies and jams]

from Bess Halle <[e-mail]>:

Basic flower jelly
Make an infusion from edible flowers.  1 pint of flowers to 1 pint of
boiling water.  Most flowers have a bitter bit where the petal joins the
flower so you must cut that part off.  I use scissors and just trim the
petals of flowers, leaving the points attached.  (though once I actually
snipped the points off 2 quarts of rose petals....tedious beyond belief!)

2   C flower infusion
1/4 C lemon juice
4   C sugar
6 oz liquid pectin
*optional; few drops food coloring

Mix infusion, lemon juice and sugar in stainless steel or enamelware pan.
Bring to hard boil you can't stir down.  Add liquid pectin and return to
hard boil.  Boil at this temp. 2 minutes.  Pour immediately into hot steril-
ized jars and seal.  Turn jars upside down for 5 minutes and revert [or
process for 5 min in waterbath].  Makes 4-4.5 cups of jelly.

I've found liquid pectin works better with flowers (and herbs) than the
an apple mint jelly with apple juice and apple mint.  My favorite herb com-
bination, though, is lemon mint, made with 1 cup lemon verbena infusion and
1 cup spearmint.  I never use the food coloring because I like the pale
yellow and gold and pink and ruby colors.  You can also pour the jellies
into pretty wine glasses or other pretty glasses and seal with paraffin.
[Check the Tips 'N Tricks section for handling paraffin.--LEB]

P.S. The word from the wine making group (where I first got the idea to
make honeysuckle jelly) is to wash the blossoms first.  This is probably a
good idea because I made a batch of honeysuckle jelly over the weekend and
there was an awful lot of pollen in the flowers.  The jelly tasted like
honey, btw, and quite good...not at all lemony, but not enough of the
actual honeysuckle flavor I was aiming for.  I'll probably increase the
proportions next time.

Here's another rose petal jelly recipe which makes more jelly.

2 quarts rose petals **see note below
2 quarts water
1/4 cup lemon juice
7 cups sugar
6 oz liquid pectin

Boil petals in 2 quarts of water with the lid on, till 1/2 liquid is gone.
Measure out 3 cups liquid.  (save the remaining cup!!) mix with lemon juice
and sugar. Bring to rolling boil. Add liquid pectin (this will be 2 packages
of the liquid certo brand) and bring back to hard boil.  Boil 2 minutes and
pour into hot sterilized jars.  Seal in preferred manner.

I use the little 4 oz jelly jars so that I can give away a lot.  This makes
about 15 little jars.

The remaining cup can be mixed with a 1 cup infusion of a favorite herb like
mint or lemon balm and used in the previous recipe.  I also boiled a cinna-
mon stick in with the jelly-making part (not the first boiling of petals)
I think because I heard of a restaurant called Cinnamon Rose and the name
stuck.  Anyway, at first the cinnamon seemed a little strong.  A friend
said the jelly tasted like the apple pie from heaven.  BUT after opening a
sealed jar a few days later I DID detect both the rose and the cinnamon
flavor.  Be sure to discard the cinnamon stick before bottling.

**I've used less and I've used more, so the exact proportions probably don't
matter.  In fact, even when I pick them at night when I get home from work,
and they have little scent, cooking them brings it out a lot.  Just remem-
ber, for a good red color you will need some red roses and also remember..
..the rose brew will stain your hands, your sink, your clothes!!!


6. [Canning Cake]

BTW, several sources from the group note that you'll be disqualified from a
county fair competition with a canned-cake recipe.  I haven't heard anything
from the USDA about the relative safety of canned cake; the batter does get
hotter than 240 F.  Make sure you sterilize the jars, lids, and rings be-
forehand.

From: [e-mail]:
Subject: CAKES IN JARS-NEW

Well, I decided to try another one.  The recipe came from Heather Kelly
in Canada.  The bread is delicious.  If you don't want to mess with the
jars, I've given her directions for baking them in loaves at the bottom
of the recipe.

     ALMOND-CHERRY BREAD BAKED IN JARS
     ---------------------------------
     9       12 oz       * BALL (tm) QUILTED CRYSTAL JELLY JARS
                             (#14400-81400)
     9                     NEW LIDS (do not use old ones)
     9                     RINGS (OK to use old ones)
                           VEGETABLE SHORTENING (to grease jars)
            -OR-
     2       9-inch        LOAF PANS, greased

     2         cups        CAKE FLOUR (I used Swan's Down brand)
     1-1/2      tsp        BAKING POWDER
     2         cups        MARASCHINO CHERRIES, drained, dried and
                             cut in half
     1/2        cup        ALMONDS, blanched, finely ground
     1/4        cup        CAKE FLOUR
     1-1/2     cups        GRANULATED SUGAR
     8          ozs        CREAM CHEESE, softened (DO NOT use
                             Light cream cheese)
     1          cup        BUTTER, softened (2 sticks)
     1          tsp        ALMOND EXTRACT
     4        large        EGG, room temperature
     --------------------------------------------------------------
Sterilize the jars, lids and rings by boiling them for 15 minutes.  Keep the
lids and rings in the water until you're ready to use them.   Make sure
there are no nicks or cracks in the lips of the jars.

* If you can't find the jars I've listed above, they also make plain jars
(no diamond pattern), look for them instead. I don't know the number off-
hand, sorry. If you have a Smart & Final store near you they carry the plain
jars [I've seen the diamond pattern jars in many grocery stores--LEB].
Another place to look would be old hardware stores they usually carry can-
ning supplies.  As canning season is a bit behind us, those are about the
only two places I can think of that might carry the jars.

Remove the jars from the water and place them on a clean dish towel to air-
dry (up, not upside down).  While the jars are cooling, prepare the cake
batter.

Once the jars are cool, using a pastry brush, grease the inside of each jar
with shortening (DO NOT use AM, Baker's Secret, butter or margarine).  Don't
get any on the lip of the jar or they won't seal properly.

Preheat oven to 325-degrees. Place a cookie sheet onto the middle rack of
the oven, remove the top rack.

Mix the flour and baking powder together; set aside.  Mix together the
cherries, ground almonds and 1/4 cup of cake flour; set aside.  Cream
together the sugar, cream cheese, butter and almond extract until light
and fluffy.  Slowly add the flour/baking powder mixture, mixing well.  Fold
in the cherry/almond/flour mixture until well incorporated.

Divide the batter among the 9 jars, filling them about 1/2 full.  I found it
easiest to use my small spatula to spoon the batter into the jars, it's
skinny.  It helped to keep the batter from getting onto the top insides of
the jar--it'll burn if you leave it there.  Wipe off the lips of the jars
if you get any batter on them.  If you don't the jars won't seal properly--
you want them clean and dry.  The batter is very thick.

Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted deep into the cakes
comes out clean.

When cakes test done, using HEAVY-DUTY MITTS (the jars ARE HOT!) remove them
from the oven one-by-one and place the lids and rings on them and screw down
tightly.  Keep the lids in the hot water until you're ready to use them.
Place the jars on your counter to cool.  You'll be able to tell if they've
sealed, you should hear a "plinking" sound.  If you don't hear the noise,
check the jars once they've cooled by pressing down on the lids, they
shouldn't move at all.

Store the jars in a cool, dry place, just as you would any canned goods.
There's NO need to refrigerate the cakes, they keep in the pantry for about
6 months--maybe longer, they don't last that long around here.  I start
about now (late August) so I'll have plenty to give as Christmas gifts.
Single folks love the cakes because each jar is enough for one or two people.

LOAVES: Bake in a preheated 325-degree oven for about 1 hour, or until
        a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean (can
        take up to 1-1/2 hours). Cool in pan on wire rack.

One last comment...before giving the cakes or eating them, double check the
jar seals to make sure they've not broken.  The only time I've had the seals
break is when I stored the jars in a cupboard which got too hot.  It's cold
out now, so I doubt it'll happen to anyone, but it's better to be safe than
sorry.

Last one...

     BROWNIE CAKES BAKED IN JARS
     ---------------------------
     3     12 oz   BALL (tm) QUILTED CRYSTAL JELLY JARS
                     (#14400-81400)
     3             LIDS (DO NOT use old lids)
     3             RINGS (old ones are OK)
                   VEGETABLE SHORTENING (to grease jars)

     1       cup   ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
     1       cup   SUGAR
     1/2     tsp   BAKING SODA
     1/4     tsp   GROUND CINNAMON (optional)
     1/3     cup   BUTTER or MARGARINE
     1/4     cup   WATER
     3       TBS   UNSWEETENED COCOA POWDER
     1/4     cup   BUTTERMILK
     1             EGG, beaten
     1/2     tsp   VANILLA EXTRACT
     1/4     cup   WALNUTS, chopped
     ------------------------------------------------------------
Sterilize the jars, lids and rings by boiling them for 15 minutes.  Remove
the jars from the water and allow them to air-dry.  Leave the lids and rings
in the hot water until you're ready to use them.

Grease the cooled canning jars with shortening. DO NOT use Pam, Baker's
Secret, butter or margarine. As the jars are tall and slender, use a pastry
brush to grease them.

Preheat oven to 325-degrees. Place a cookie sheet onto the middle rack;
remove the top rack.

In a small bowl stir together flour, sugar, baking soda and cinnamon, if
used; set aside.  In a medium saucepan combine the butter or margarine, water
and cocoa powder; heat and stir until butter or margarine in melted and mix-
ture is well blended.  Remove from heat; stir in flour mixture.  Add butter-
milk, egg and vanilla; beat by hand until smooth.  Stir in nuts.

Divide the batter among the three jars (they should be about 1/2 full) place
them onto cookie sheet.  Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a cake tester in-
serted into the center of each jar comes out clean.

Remove the jars, one at a time from the oven; place a lid on, then a ring
and screw down tightly.  Use HEAVY-DUTY mitts, the jars are HOT!  Place the
jars onto your counter top to cool.  You'll know when they've sealed, you'll
hear a "plinking" sound. IF you miss it, wait until the jars have cooled
completely then push down on the lids, they shouldn't move at all.

You can bake ANY quick bread type cake (regular cakes don't work, they tend
to fall when the jars seal) in canning jars.  The only thing you have to
figure out is how much batter to put into each jar.  MOST recipes work by
filling them 1/2 full.  Some batters will rise higher than others.  I'd sug-
gest filling ONE jar 1/2 full and baking it.  If it rises to within 1/4 to
1/2 an inch from the top of the jar, it'll work fine.  If not, adjust ac-
cordingly (more or less).  Experiment with your favorite quickbread recipe!
Once you figure out how much batter to put into the jars WRITE it on the
recipe so you won't forget (I do).



2.  GENERAL EQUIPMENT QUESTIONS

A.2.1  [What kind of equipment do I need to can foods at home?  Don't
you need a lot of stuff?]

If you cook, you probably already have most of the stuff that you need to
can (jar) high-acid foods.  Basically, you need canning jars and 2-piece
lids (lids and rings), a large kettle or stock pot that you can boil water
in, several saucepans, measuring cups and spoons, light tongs (to pick up
the lids and rings), ladles, stirring spoons, an accurate timer, clean
towels, a cake rack, and canning tongs.  As you get more involved, other
helpful tools are: canning funnel, clip-on candy thermometer, boiling
waterbath canner, and a pressure canner (not a cooker).  2-piece jars can
be found in the grocery, supermarket, and hardware store, while canners,
canning tongs, and canning funnels can be gotten at the local hardware store
(or Walmart).  Lots of equipment can also be obtained at yard sales, check
out the Specific Equipment Question section for more information.

What you really need is a desire to can food, and a bit of a perfectionist
streak.  Carelessness, disorganization, and inattention cause most problems.


A.2.2  [My grandmother always reused commercial jars and sealed her jars
using paraffin.  Should I do this too?]

Nothing against your grandmother, but usually you don't want to use "one-
trip" commercial jars for canning.  Sealing jars with paraffin is also
counterindicated, because mold and other spoilers can slip in between the
paraffin and the side of the jar.  Even a common trick of turning the jar
upside down to "sterilize" the top is not advised.  (Use a boiling water-
bath for about 10 minutes instead.)  Food preserving technique "rules"
tend to change every few years, due to new knowledge about microbiology and
mycology, and due to rigorous testing of food preservation recipes and tech-
niques by many state extension services.  Keep up to date!


A.2.3  [What about zinc rings, rubber sealed jars, and other great, but
antique, canning equipment?]

A great question.  Check out the answer under II. Specific Equipment
Questions.


A.2.4  [Ball or Kerr?]

People have used both, and people have had problems with either.  In other
words, whichever works for you.

from Wendy Milner <[e-mail]>:
Canning jars such as those made by Kerr or by Ball, have special two-piece
lids.  You should only use lids and jars made by the same company.  While
in most cases you will get a seal when mixing brands, it is not guaranteed.
Additionally, if you are using an oil mixture in your recipe do not use Kerr
lids as the sealing compound on the lids has been shown to loose its effect-
iveness as the oil seeps into it.


A.2.5  [Rings on the jar, or off?]

In the opinion of this FAQ maintainer, its a matter of taste, so I'll give
you pros and cons of each side.
Pro ring: "looks" more natural, saves a weak seal, secures the lid if you
are mailing canning jars, or storing leftovers in the refrigerator.  I like
the ring on when I mail/give something.  Con ring: can reuse ring quickly,
rings don't rust on jar, doesn't hide dirty threads or a weak seal.  Other
ring facts: rings have to be off if the canned good is to be judged at a
county/state fair.  Rings shouldn't be removed until the seal is allowed to
fully develop, about 12-24 hrs.


A.2.6  [I'm really cheap.  How can I reuse my canning lids?]

Penny-wise and pound-foolish.  The botulism antiserum shot costs a *lot*
more than the $30-$40 cost of a few dozen lids.  As a public service, from
the home office in Grand Rapids MI, the top ten
        Things You Can Do With Old Canning Lids....
  10.  Windchimes
   9.  Coasters for the vacation house
   8.  Really boring mobiles
   7.  Palm protectors for smashing garlic cloves
   6.  Train your pet Chihuahua to catch teeny metal frisbees
   5.  2 canning lids + 1 HD disk = yummy sandwich for your favorite
       USENET FAQ maintainer
   4.  With tinsnips, create several dollhouse-sized cookie sheets
   3.  Sharpen the edges, make the business end of a pizza cutter
   2.  Glue several canning lids into 1 slinky to contact those
       pesky Venusians
   1.  Several hundred canning lids, stitched together make the
       perfect dress for your Oscar acceptance speech...
    (those brass Kerr ones look great, much better than AMEX cards!)

Seriously, there are some things you can do with old canning lids.  You
might not realize this, but lids and the mouths of jars/cans are of a
fairly standard size.  The Kerr lids for the narrow neck pints/half pints
fit many commercial jars, like spaghetti sauce and mayonaisse jars, even
those medium size salsa jars.  I've found that the wide mouth ones fit
large tomato sauce cans.  It means that if you store dried peas, lentils,
beans, pasta, sugars, flours, nuts, seeds, your dried vegetables, dried
fruit, jerky, dried herbs, fruit leather, etc. in reused commercial glass
jars, you always have a lid.  Poke many large holes in an old canning lid,
use the lid/ring/jar as a jar strainer for bean and alfalfa sprouts.  If
you're like me, and you cut the can lid off completely, but you don't use
all the contents, you still always have a lid.  If your jars have great
seals, and you have to completely destroy the lid of a particular can,
you've got a spare lid when you put it in the refrigerator.  If your SO
has a workshop, and organizes screws, nails, loose change, spare RAM chips,
matches, etc in glass jars, your SO has a lid.

Just don't can with them, and if you save old lids, mark 'em well so you
you even get planned obsolescence that way.  And for god sakes, don't pawn
'em off at a yard sale...


A.2.7  [How do I use a pressure canner safely and effectively?]

from Wendy Milner <[e-mail]>:
As with the boiling water bath, you prepare your food according to a tested
recipe, place the food in the jar, put on the two piece lid, and place the
jars in the canner which has 2 to 3 inches of water in it.  The water should
be hot but not boiling.  Place the lid on the canner.  The petcock or vent
of the lid is open.  As the water boils, steam will rise out of the petcock.
When steam is steady, wait 10 minutes before closing the petcock.

There are two types of gauge: weighted and dial.

The weighted gauge has three positions: 5 pounds, 10 pounds and 15 pounds.
Always use the higher weight if the recipe calls for a weight in between one
of these values.  For example, the recipe calls for 12 pounds of pressure,
use 15 pounds.  The disadvantage to a weighted gauge is that food may be
over processed.  The advantage is that it is easy to hear the weight move
during processing.

With a weighted gauge, place the gauge on the vent using the correct weight.
Leave the temperature on high until the weighted gauge begins to rock.
Lower the temperature.  You will have to experiment a little with the
temperature.  You want the weighted gauge to rock lightly throughout the
processing time. Start the processing time when the gauge is rocking at
about 2 to 3 times a minute.  [N.B. If your gauge refuses to rock, check to
see if your stove is perfectly leveled.--the gang at r.f.p]

The dial gauge canner has a dial which registers from zero to 20 pounds.
You should have your gauge tested every year by the local extension office.
The advantage to a dial gauge is that you can see exactly what the pressure
of the canner is during processing.

With a dial gauge, close the petcock and watch the dial.  When the dial has
reached the proper pressure, reduce the temperature.  Maintain the pressure
throughout the processing time.  Start the processing time when the correct
pressure has been met.

If you live above 1000' feet you must increase the pressure for processing.
For every 1000' feet add 1/2 pound of pressure.  You do NOT add time to the
processing, only pressure.

At the end of the processing time, turn off the heat.  Do not open the lid
or vents.  It will take about an hour for the pressure to drop inside the
canner.  Wait till pressure reaches zero, or the safety valve drops before
opening the lid.  Open the lid away from you.  There will still be steam
rising from the water and it is easy to scald yourself.

Remove the jars from the canner.  Place them on a towel on the counter and
leave them alone for 12 to 24 hours before checking the seal.  Do not check
before the 12 hours as this could cause the jars to not seal.  Sealing is
the result of heating and then cooling the jars.


A.2.8  [I'm looking for sources of pectin, like bulk pectins or low sugar
pectins.]

Bulk pectins, low sugar pectins, citric acid, from Dirk W. Howard <dhoward@
novell.com>:
Pacific Pectin Products/ P.O. Box 2422/ 40179 Enterprise Dr., 7B-D/
Oakhurst, CA  93644   [phone].

Low sugar pectin, from Sandy Fifer <[e-mail]>:
Pomona's Universal Pectin/ Workstead Industries/ P.O. Box 1083/
Greenfield, MA 01302   [phone].

Another source for bulk pectin, from both Zlotka <[e-mail]> and Kai
<[e-mail]>:
Home Canning Supply & Specialties/ PO Box 1158/ Ramona, California 92065
[phone] or FAX [phone].  1 [phone] for orders.  They
sell 10# of regular pectin for $75.15 plus shipping (1995 prices--LEB).
Call and talk to them; nice folks.


A.2.9  [I'd like some sources for non-standard size jars, decorative bot-
tles, unusual size rings, and other items that I just can't find in the
usual places.]

Zlotka <[e-mail]>:
Berlin Packaging has a great catalog of containers for all manner of things.
1-800-4-BERLIN will get you a free catalog.  Good customer service, too.

lost the attribution here, sorry..
You might try Glashaus.  They have some big jar sizes, the largest rings I
have from them are 4.25" at the outside.  They are at Glashaus Inc./ 415 W.
Golf Road, Suite 13/ Arlington Heights, IL 60005  (312)-640-6918  Fax (312)-
640-6955.  Plus they have really beautiful jars.  The lids are held on by
suction from canning, so it is extremely easy to tell if something didn't
seal or has gone bad.


3. TROUBLESHOOTING

A.3.1  [My jars refuse to seal!  Some of my preserved food is turning colors!
What is happening?]
----
PROBLEMS WITH HOME-CANNED FOODS

Even when you follow directions, occasionally you may have
problems with home-canned foods.  Many of these problems can be
traced to use of non-standard canning jars, lids and rings or use
of other-than-recommended canning equipment or procedures.
Checking your equipment and reviewing current canning
recommendations can go a long way towards preventing potential
problems.  If you do have a problem, you may be able to determine
the cause and prevent its reoccurence by consulting this
"trouble-shooter's guide".

1.  Jars do not seal
    a.  Off-standard jars and/or lids.
    b.  Chipped or uneven sealing edge.
    c.  Using one-piece caps instead of two-piece lids.
    d.  Screwbands are rusty or bent providing poor contact.
    e.  Bands not screwed down tightly enough before processing.
    f.  Sealing edge not clean.  Wipe edge well before placing
        lid on rim.
    g.  Liquid siphons out of jar during processing taking food
        particles on to the sealing edge.
    h.  Insufficient heat during processing--air not evacuated
        from jar, so a vacuum seal never forms.
    i.  Lids were improperly prepared before placing them on
        rims--most lid manufacturers require some pretreatment
        (heating, boiling, etc.).
    j.  Rapid, forced cooling of a pressure canner can cause a
        rapid pressure and temperature change inside the canner
        causing the liquid to "boil" out of the jars, leaving
        particles on the sealing rim and unsealing the jars.
        Canners should not be "forced" into cooling rapidly by
        submerging them in water or by adding ice.
    k.  Insufficient processing of raw-packed food; the air may
        not have been completely driven out of the food leaving
        residual air in the jar so the seal does not form.
    l.  Use of canning procedures which are not recommended such
        as open kettle canning, microwave canning, and oven
        canning.  Use USDA recommended procedures.

2.  Food spoils
    a.  Processing at an incorrect temperature--can occur with:

    1.  Inaccurate pressure canner gauge.
    2.  Failure to exhaust canner.
    3.  Failure to make altitude adjustment.
    4.  Heat source fluctuates--inaccurate pressure or
        fluctuating pressure.
    5.  Water not at a rolling boil when jars are put into
        canner.
    6.  Water not covering jar caps by 1" throughout processing.
    7.  Water not at full boil throughout processing.
    8.  Insufficient processing time.
    9.  Use of canning procedures which are not
        recommended--recommended procedures (USDA) are based on
        the time it takes to achieve a temperature which will
        sterilize the food in the jar.

    b.  Improper cooling of jars after processing.

    1.  Failure to remove jars from canner when processing time
    2.  Failure to set jars at least 1" apart during cooling.
    3.  Covering jars which retains heat--vacuum does not
        develop.
    4.  Attempting to cool either the canner or the jars very
        rapidly.

    c.  Using damaged (freeze damaged), spoiled, under ripe or
        over ripe food--the pH may not be correct for the type of
        processing you used (water bath versus pressure).

    d.  Very large number of microorganisms due to spoilage,
        bruising, etc. A very large number of microorganisms
        present on the food which are not destroyed in the
        usually recommended amount of processing time.

3.  Food loses liquid during processing
    a.  Jars filled too full.
    b.  Fluctuating pressure in a pressure canner.
    c.  Forced cooling of a pressure canner.

4.  Food turns dark (not spoiled)
    a.  Insufficient processing time.
    b.  Processing temperature too low (water not at a full boil
        at beginning of processing or drops below full boil
        during processing).
    c.  Water not 1" over jar lids.
    d.  Packing foods raw that should be precooked (pears).
    e.  Liquid loss during processing causing fruit at the top to
        be out of the liquid.
    f.  Lack of appropriate pretreatment for light-colored foods.

5.  Fruit or tomatoes float or separate from the liquid
    a.  Using overripe fruit.
    b.  Packing fruit too loosely.
    c.  Syrup too heavy.
    d.  Processing too long--pectin damaged.
    e.  Processing at too high a temperature (pressure canner).
    f.  Raw packing--food contains a lot of air.
    g.  Smashing or pureeing food prior to heating it activates
        enzymes which break down pectin in the juice so the food
        pieces are lighter and rise to the top.  Heat or crush
        while heating any foods to be pureed or food to be packed
        in its own juice to help prevent separation.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992

EHE-665
----
PROBLEMS IN HOME-CANNED FRUITS

  Fruit darkens at the top of the jar:

    a. Liquid didn't cover the fruit--pigments become oxidized.
    b. Fruit not processed long enough to destroy enzymes.
    c. Air left in jars permits oxidation (bubbles or too much
       headspace). Fresh fruit exposed to air oxidizes.
    d. Exposure to high temperatures and light during storage.

  Color changes in canned apples, pears, peaches, quinces:
     Pink, red, blue or purple color--natural enzymatic reaction
     (not harmful) which may occur during cooking, or a result of
     a chemical reaction between fruit pigments and metal ions
     (iron and copper).  Use soft water, stainless steel
     cookware, plastic or wooden utensils.

  Fruit floats in the jar:
    a. Fruit is lighter than syrup--use lighter syrup, cook fruit
       before packing.
    b. Improper packing--pack fruit tightly without crushing.
       Use hot pack method.
    c. Fruit is overprocessed--too much heat destroys pectin and
       acid, so the fruit loses its shape and floats.
    d. Fruit is packed too loosely.

  Fruit Spoilage:
    a. Overpacking--heat penetration is poor and food does not
       become sterilized.
    b. Poor selection of fruit (over ripe, wrong pH, large
       bruises).
    c. Underprocessing--food is not sterilized.
    d. Unsanitary conditions--microorganisms are not removed from
       the food or larger numbers are added during preparation.
       Clean up as you go.  Wash equipment, utensils and hand in
       hot soapy water.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992

----
COLOR CHANGES IN HOME-CANNED FOODS

The pigments in food which are responsible for their colors
are sensitive to a variety of things which they may come into
contact with during home food preservation.  Acids (lemon or
other fruit juices), anti-caking ingredients in table salt,
minerals in water, metals in water and from cooking utensils,
heat, and light are a few things which can affect these pigments
causing them to change color.  Most color changes which occur
during home food preservation do not make the food unsafe to
consume--however, if the food looks or smells bad or odd, do not
take a chance, dispose of it without tasting it.

   1.     Blue garlic: Occurs in pickled products.  Caused by
          using immature garlic or because table salt was used in
          place of canning salt.  Not a safety hazard.

   2.     Yellow cauliflower:  Cauliflower (or other white
          vegetable pigments) are white in acid but yellow in
          alkaline medium.  Minerals in the water may have
          created a more-than-normal alkalinity.  Not a safety
          hazard.

   3.     Yellow crystals in canned asparagus: the crystals are
          glucosides (rutin) which were in the asparagus cells
          before canning.  The high temperature of pressure
          canning causes them to come out of the vegetables into
          solution, but when the food cools, the pigment
          precipitates out of solution onto the the asparagus.
          Occurs mainly in asparagus in glass jars.  If asparagus
          is canned in tin cans, a pigment-tin complex form so
          the yellow pigment stays in the liquid.  Not a safety
          hazard.

   4.     Pink pears: the light colored pigments in the pears
          convert to pink pigments due to overprocessing or due
          to enzymatic reactions.  Not a safety hazard.

   5.     White crystals on tomato products:  home-canned pureed
          tomato products may have crystals of calcium nitrate on
          the surface. They are hard and scaley unlike mold
          spots.  Not a safety hazard.

   6.     White crystals on spinach leaves: calcium oxalate--not
          a safety hazard.

   7.     White or pink crystals in grape jelly:  Grapes are high
          in tartaric acid which goes into solution during
          cooking but precipitates as crystals during cooling.
          Prevent crystals by extracting grape juice, cooling
          overnight in the refrigerator and filtering juice
          before canning or using for jelly-making.  Not a safety
          hazard.

   8.     White, yellow, or pale red beets: the red pigments in
          beets (anthocyanins) are sensitive to high
          temperatures.  Some beet varieties are especially
          sensitive.  The pigments are converted to white or
          colorless derivatives.  Not a safety hazard.

   9.     Blue pickled beets: the pigments in beets are
          pH-sensitive.  They are red in acids and blue in
          alkalis.  If the pigments are blue, the pH is too
          high for water-bath canning to be safe.  Throw the
          beets away (handle according to spoiled food
          procedures).

   10.    Brown green beans: enzymatic color changes occurring
          before the enzymes are inactivated by heat cause the
          green-to-brown color change of chlorophyll.  Blanching
          or hot-packing will inactivate the enzymes and help
          preserve the green color.  Not a safety hazard.

   11.    Brown potatoes:  storage of potatoes at temperatures
          below 45 F causes the potato starch to be converted to
          sugars.  During high heat treatment of pressure
          canning, these sugars form dark brown pigments.  Not a
          safety hazard.

   12.    Colorless crystals which look like broken glass in
          canned sea foods.  Not harmful.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992
EHE-666
----

A.3.2  [My jams and jellies didn't set.  How can I reprocess them?]

From: Barb Schaller <[e-mail]>
Here are three ways to rescue syrupy jams or jellies.

From General Foods, makers of Sure Jell pectin products and Certo liquid

USING SURE JELL FOR LOWER SUGAR RECIPES:

Prepare containers as you normally would have (hot jars and lids).

Prepare Pectin Mixture:  Slowly stir contents of 1 package Sure Jell for
Lower Sugar Recipes (SJ-LSR) into 1-1/2 cups cold water in small saucepan.
Bring to a boil over medium heat; continue to boil 2 minutes, stirring con-
stantly.  Remove from heat.

Prepare Trial Batch:  1 cup your jam or jelly, 2 Tbsp. sugar, 1 Tbsp.
Pectin Mixture.  Measure jam or jelly, sugar, and the Pectin Mix into small
(1-qt) saucepan.  Bring to a full rolling boil on high heat; continue to
boil 30 seconds, stirring constantly.  Remove from heat.  Skim off any foam
with metal spoon.  Quickly pour into prepared jar.  Cover jar and let stand
up to 24 hours to check set of Trial Batch.  Store remaining Pectin Mix in
fridge.

Prepare Remainder of Batch:  DO NOT TRY TO REMAKE MORE THAN 8 CUPS OF JAM OR
JELLY AT ONE TIME.  If Trial Batch sets satisfactorily, follow the recipe
above, using the listed amounts of Pectin Mixture and sugar for EACH 1 cup
of jam or jelly.  (Not going to repeat previous instructions.--BS)   For
convenience in measuring larger amounts of Pectin Mixture and sugar:  8
Tbsp. = 1/2 cup.  16 Tbsp = 1 cup.   (Even I could do that math!  :-)
"Remember, if your jam or jelly still doesn't set, you can always use it as
a glaze or syrup."

USING SURE JELL POWDERED FRUIT PECTIN:
Prepare Containers as usual (hot jars and lids).

Prepare Pectin Mixture:  Slowly stir contents of 1 package SJ and 3/4 cup
cold water in small saucepan.  Bring to a boil over medium heat; continue
to boil 2 minutes, stirring constantly.  Remove from heat.

Prepare Trial Batch:  Same as for SJ-LSR instructions, above.

Prepare Remainder of Batch:  Same as for SJ-LSR above.  (Same comment about
glaze, too.  :-)

USING CERTO Liquid Fruit Pectin:

Prepare Trial Batch:  (Pay attention, this is different.....)  1 cup your
sorry jam or jelly, 3 Tbsp. sugar, 1-1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (I do use
fresh), 1-1/2 tsp. Certo.

Measure jam or jelly into small saucepan.  Bring to full rolling boil on
high heat, stirring constantly.  Immediately stir in sugar, lemon juice and
Certo.  Bring to full rolling boil on high heat, stirring constantly.
Remove from heat.  Skim off foam, blah, blah, blah.  Quickly pour into
prepared jar, blah, blah, blah.  Store opened pouch of Certo in refrigerator.
(Blah, blah, blah= follow standard procedure for sealing the jars, and for
g'sakes, don't sneeze in the jar.--LEB)

Prepare Remainder of Batch:  Do not try to make more than 8 cups of jam or
jelly at one time.  If Trial Batch sets satisfactorily, follow the recipe
above, using the listed amounts of sugar, lemon juice, and Certo for EACH 1
cup of jam or jelly.

Measure jam or jelly, sugar, lemon juice and Fruit Pectin into large (6 to
8-quart) saucepot.  Bring to a full rolling boil on high heat; continue to
boil 1 minute, stirring constantly (this is DIFFERENT than trial batch.)
Remove from heat, skim foam, ladle into jars, blah, blah, blah.  After
preparing remainder of batch, discard Certo in opened pouch.  (Same com-
mentary about glazes and syrup.)

For convenience in measuring larger amounts of sugar, lemon juice and
Fruit Pectin:  3 tsp. = 1 Tbsp., 8 Tbsp. = 1/2 cup, 16 Tbsp. = 1 cup.

There!  From "Gifts from the Harvest, Homemade Jams and Jellies, from
the makers of SureJell and Certo."  A 62-page booklet with beyond-the-
basics recipes for sweet spreads.  Got it as a freebie at our State
Fair one year.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
(end of part 1)




Part 2 of 6
Version 2.7
Freezing, Dehydration, and Pickling
----------------------------------------------------------------------

B. FREEZING

1.  GENERAL QUESTIONS

B.1.1  [What do I *really* need to know about freezing?]

Freezing is preserving food using low temperatures--generally at
temperatures around 0 F/-18 C.  Freezing generally inhibits both
microbial growth (doesn't generally kill, though) and many protease/
enzyme actions in the food itself. You need to decide whether or not
to blanch or process food, how to wrap food to prevent freezer burn,
what foods freeze well, and what to do when the power goes out.

FROZEN FOODS

     Food is safe from spoilage AS LONG AS IT STAYS FROZEN.
Microorganisms can start to grow as soon as food begins to thaw.
To keep microbial growth at a minimum, frozen foods should be
thawed in the refrigerator.  Thawed food may be refrozen IF ICE
CRYSTALS ARE STILL PRESENT IN THE FOOD.  Refreezing often changes
the quality of food (texture, color, flavor).  Foodborne illness
causing microorganisms may not be killed by freezing, so the
safety of the food will be no better than the condition of the
food which was frozen.
(section taken from Susan Brewer)


B.1.2  [So what foods can be frozen well?]

from Wendy Milner <[e-mail]>
Freezing is not for all produce.  Freezing will make mush of many
soft fruits and vegetables.  Depending on what you want to do with
these soft fruits and vegetables, freezing may work.  For example,
you can freeze tomatoes and later use them to make a sauce, but you
would not want to try and use the tomatoes whole after thawing.
You can freeze apple slices and later make apple sauce or apple
pie.

Harder vegetables such as green beans and corn do well in the
freezer.  These vegetables should be blanched first to kill mold
spores and yeasts, dried well, and then placed in freezer bags or
freezer containers.  The vegetables should be cooled before placing
in the freezer to prevent the freezer temperature from rising.

All meat can be frozen.  If you are butchering your own meat, make
sure it is clean of hair, feathers, blood shot meat, and any
foreign matter.  Meat should be cut into small slices such as you
find in the grocery store.  Do not attempt to freeze large sections
of meat - such as a quarter of a beef - unless you have a
commercial sized and very cold freezer.  Meat should be wrapped in
butcher paper to prevent freezer burn.  You must thaw meat in the
refrigerator.  Meat left on the counter to thaw allows for the
growth of bacteria which could be harmful.


B.1.3  [What's this blanching stuff, anyway?]

Blanching is plunging your item(s) in boiling water for a short
amount of time (30 sec to 5 min, check your recipe), cooling the
items quickly, then drying off the items.  You don't cook the item,
but you kill off the surface bugs and you destroy several important
enzymes that brown and degrade foods.


B.1.4  [How do I freeze (your item here), and how long can I
reasonably expect it to keep?]

from [e-mail] (Z Pegasus), in rec.food.cooking

MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.02
      Title: Freezing Cooked and Prepared Foods 5/5
       Bobbi Zee
       No Ingredients

RECOMMENDED STORAGE TIMES IN MONTHS
                    Months
  Appetizers
  :       Cheese wafers and straws        2
  :       Deviled ham puffs               1

  Baked Products
      Cakes
  :       Angel food -- baked             4
  :       Chocolate -- baked              3
  :       Chocolate -- batter             2
  :       Frosted                         3
  :       Fruit -- baked                  4
  :       Plain -- baked                  3
  :       Plain -- batter                 2
  :       Sponge -- baked                 4
       Cookies
  :       Brownies -- baked               4
       Cookies
  :       Brownies -- baked               4
  :       Chocolate chip -- baked         4
  :       Filled -- baked                 4
  :       Peanut butter -- baked          6
  :       Peanut butter -- dough          4
  :       Refrigerator -- baked           6
  :       Refrigerator -- dough           6
  :       Sugar -- baked                  6
  :       Sugar -- dough                  6
       Pies
  :       Apple -- baked                  4
  :       Apple -- unbaked                4
  :       Blueberry -- baked              4
  :       Blueberry -- unbaked            4
  :       Chocolate chiffon               2
  :       Lemon chiffon                   2
  :       Mincemeat -- baked              2
  :       Mincemeat -- unbaked            2
  :       Mincemeat -- baked              2
  :       Mincemeat -- unbaked            2
  :       Pumpkin -- baked                2
  :       Pumpkin -- unbaked              2
       Quick breads
  :       Boston brown -- baked           4
  :       Nut -- baked                    2
  :       Orange -- baked                 4
       Yeast breads
  :       Rolls -- baked                  4
  :       Rolls -- dough                1 week
  :       Swedish tea ring                2

  Combination Dishes
  :       Bakes beans with tomato sauce   4
  :       Beef or veal stew               2
  :       Chicken a la king               4
  :       Italian rice                    2
  :       Rice Pilaf                      4
  :       Italian rice                    2
  :       Rice Pilaf                      4
  :       Shrimp Creole                   4
  :       Spanish sausage                 2
  :       Tomato sauce and meat balls     2

Combination Dishes - General Directions

  INGREDIENTS AND COOKING TIME:  Use only ingredients of the best
  quality. Prepare foods in the usual way but shorten the cooking time
  for most of them.  Cook meat and vegetables until barely tender and
  take from the heat at once.  The tissues will soften further during
  the cooling, freezing, and reheating.
       If completely cooked before they are frozen, meat and vegetables
  may be too soft when served.  Long cooking also causes unnecessary
  losses of flavor and aroma.

  DO NOT INCLUDE POTATOES OR SOME TYPES OF RICE.  Potatoes are not
  satisfactory in combination dishes which are to be frozen -- the
  texture is poor after freezer storage and reheating.  It is better to
  cook and add them when the frozen food is prepared for serving.
       In certain combination dishes quick-cooking rice and regular
  rice tend to be mushy when they are reheated after being frozen.
  Converted rice has been found to retain its shape and texture better.

  COOL COOKED FOODS QUICKLY.  After a food is cooked, cool it quickly
  to room temperature.  Place the cooking pan in a larger pan of ice
  water or cold running water and stir occasionally.  If the food is in
  a heavy kettle, you can cool it more quickly by transferring it to
  one of the lighter weights.

  CLEANLINESS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Since freezing does not kill all
  microorganisms, strive to keep the number in the food as low as
  possible during preparation.  Use clean utensils and sanitary methods
  of handling food.  Keep the food covered during cooking, and loosely
  covered during cooling.  Package the product as soon as it reaches
  room temperature and freeze immediately.

  PACKAGE CAREFULLY.  Several types of containers are suitable for
  combination dishes.  However, the longer the product is to be held in
  freezer storage the more moisture- and vapor-proof the package must
  be. Cylindrical cartons with slip-on lids and tub-type containers are
  easy to fill but they may not be air-tight.  Rectangular cartons with
  plastic or plastic laminated foil bags which can be tightly sealed
  with paper-covered wire closures, rubber bands, or heat are more
  moisture- and vapor-proof. Glass jars designed as containers for
  freezing, tin cans, or plastic containers with tight-fitting lids
  afford good protection against moisture loss and are easy to use.
  Freezer-to-table cookware can be overwrapped with plastic or aluminum
  foil for a tight seal.
       Some of the heavier plastic wraps now available are suitable for
  freezer storage.  Those made with polyvinylidene chloride (such as
  Saran Wrap) have been rated as excellent and are suitable for
  long-term storage.
       Those made with polyethylene (such as Glad and Handi-Wrap) are
  suitable for short-term storage.  Those made with polyvinyl chloride
  (such as Reynolds Plastic) are poor choices because they are not
  moisture- and vapor-proof.  Plastic-coated paper freezer wrap is
  suitable for solid foods.  (For more details, see Consumer Reports,
  March, 1983.)
       For food that is packaged solid be sure to leave space at the
  top of the container for the contents to expand during freezing.
  Leave 1/2 inch for a pint container, 1 inch for a quart.

  FREEZE IMMEDIATELY.  Put packaged foods in the home freezing unit
  without delay.  The temperature in the home freezing unit should be
  0 F or lower.

  DO NOT STORE TOO LONG.  The shorter the period of freezer storage,
  the more appetizing these foods will be.  (See table of recommended
  storage times---above LEB) While some foods usually do maintain
  quality longer than is indicated, undesirable changes may take place
  during freezer storage. Some fats tend to become rancid rather quickly.
  Separation may occur in sauces and gravies.  Onion and black pepper
  become stronger and salt loses flavor.
    With all foods there is a gradual loss of flavor, aroma, and
  natural texture.  Be sure to write the date of preparation on every
  package and make a record of the packages you put in the freezer so
  you will not leave them there too long.

  PREPARE FOR SERVING.  To reheat frozen cooked food, use the method
  which will affect its appearance and texture the least.  A double
  boiler is best for combination dishes.  A saucepan can be used if the
  food is partly defrosted and then heated carefully.  With either
  method do not stir food more than necessary.  Plastic wraps can be
  used in microwave reheating only with foods that are low in sugar and
  fat. High-fat and high-sugar foods can become hot enough to melt the
  plastic.
       Use all defrosted and reheated foods at the current meal. Further
  holding and reheating is not recommended.

  COOKED MEAT AND VEGETABLES
       Freezing cooked meat, except in combination dishes where a solid
  pack can be prepared for freezing, is not recommended.  Work carried
  on in the foods research laboratory of the University of Ilinois as
  well as in other foods laboratories indicates that higher quality is
  obtained if uncooked rather than cooked poultry and meat are frozen.
  Carefully controlled experiments have shown that this is true for
  deep fat and oven fried chicken, braised beef round steaks, ham
  patties and loaves, and rib and loin pork roasts.  In general,
  poultry and meat roasted or fried have a more attractive appearance
  and better flavor than that cooked before freezing.
      Precooked frozen vegetables have been rated as being inferior to
  freshly cooked and to blanched frozen vegetables.  The few exceptions
  are products that can be solidly packed such as vegetable purees and
  mashed potatores.  In the latter case freezing is not recommended
  because it takes almost as long to thaw and reheat mashed potatoes
  for serving as it would to prepare them fresh.

  BAKED GOODS - GENERAL DIRECTIONS
       Among the baked foods that can be frozen successfully are certain
  appetizers, breads, cakes, and pies.  Freezing and freezer storage
  preserve the freshness of these products and having them at hand for
  emergencies is a convenience.  The recipes included here are those
  which were found to give good results when they were tested in the
  University of Illinois laboratory.  Probably many other products
  besides those described can be frozen satisfactorily.

  PREPARING BAKED FOODS.  Use standard recipes and methods for
  appetizers, breads, cakes and pies and select only ingredients of the
  best quality. Several of these products can be frozen before they are
  baked, the following precautions are necessary:
      For cakes frozen in the batter state, use double-acting baking
  powder (SAS-phosphate) in order to assure good volume.  Package
  batter and place in freezing unit immediately.
      For fruit pies frozen before baking, use a little more flour to
  thicken juice, and do not prick the top crust.  Apple slices should
  be blanched before they are put in a pit, so they will keep their
  color, texture, and flavor better.
      Dough for rools must be wrapped and frozen as soon as the rools
  are shaped.

  DIRECTIONS FOR PACKAGING.  Except for cake batter, these products can
  be satisfactorily wrapped for freezing in moisture- and vapor-proof
  plastic wrap, heavyweight aluminum foil, or plastic freezer bags.
  Heat-sealable plastic bags are excellent.  Tight seals prevent loss
  of moisture and flavor during storage.
       If you use aluminum foil, place product in center of sheet and
  fold two edges together over it.  Roll or fold the seam tight against
  the product, taking care not to crush the product.  Then press the
  ends of the package together and fold them close to the product.
       Pressure or cold-storage tape can also be used to seal plastic
  wrap or aluminum-foil packages.
       Plastic of waxed cylindrical freezer cartons with slip-on lids or
  glass freezer jars are suitable for packaging cake batter.  the quart
  size holds enough batter for an 8-inch square cake and six cup cakes
  or for two 9-inch layers.

  DO NOT HOLD TOO LONG IN FREEZER.  As soon as baked products, batters,
  and doughs are packaged, place them in the home freezing unit.  Do
  not, however, keep them in the freezer for long periods because
  quality is lost gradually during storage.  The freezer space probably
  can be used to better advantage.

  APPETIZERS
       Questions about the advisability of freezing canapes or tea
  sandwiches are frequently asked.  Such products can of course be
  frozen and held in the freezer for about a week but the results are
  usually only fairly satisfactory.  Freshness in appearance and flavor
  are apt to be lost, moisture content of bread may no longer be evenly
  distributed, and crackers or toast rounds tend to lose crispness.
  However, two appetizers which are baked after freezing can be
  recommended. Similar types among your favorite recipes may give
  equally good results.

  ANGEL-FOOD AND SPONGE CAKES
       Frozen baked angel-food and sponge cakes, when defrosted, are
  very similar in quality to freshly baked cake.  Angel-food cakes seem
  a little more moist after they have been frozen and thawed.  However,
  both angel-food and sponge cakes are likely to shrink a little in
  freezer storage.  (Angel-food cake made from frozen and defrosted
  batter is not as fine-grained as cake baked before it is frozen.)
       Delicious angel-food cake can be made from frozen egg whites.
  Often freezing the whites is more practical than freezing the cake. A
  pint container will hold the right amount of whites for one cake.
  After defrosting by holding them overnight in the refrigerator or at
  room temperature for about 5 hours, use them in the same way as fresh
  egg whites.

  FRUIT CAKE
       Fruit cake can be baked and frozen.  After freezer storage the
  thawed cake will be more like a freshly baked cake than if it had
  been stored at room temperature.

  PLAIN AND CHOCOLATE CAKES AND FROSTINGS
       These cakes can be frozen after they are baked or the batter can
  be frozen.  Storing batter has several advantages:  it is easier to
  package, requires less freezer space, and the cake seems more moist,
  with a flavor more like that of a freshly mixed and baked cake.  A
  frozen baked cake, however, required less time to prepare for serving
  after it is taken from storage.  In addition a baked cake can be
  frosted before it is frozen and stored.

  COOKIES
       Freezing baked cookies and cookie doughs makes it easy to keep a
  variety on hand at all times.  Many types of baked cookies can
  probably be frozen, as well as refrigerator cookie doughs.  The
  enclosed recipes give good products, or you may use favorite recipes
  and methods to prepare cookies for the freezer.

  PIES
       Frozen pastry, ingredients for pie fillings, and certain frozen
  pies make excellent products.  Apple, blueberry, mincemeat, and
  pumpkin pies can be baked either before or after they are frozen.  A
  pie baked after it is frozen is more like a freshly prepared and
  baked pie, and less time is needed to prepare it for freezing.  But a
  pie that is baked and then frozen takes less time to prepare for
  serving.
       Another possibility is to freeze the cheif ingredients of
  fillings and pieces of rolled pastry of appropriate size separately.
  This procedure is more economical of freezer space than freezing
  unbaked or baked pies and may in some instances be more practical.
  Cherries and sugar or pumpkin puree can be frozen satisfactorily for
  use in pies.
       Chiffon pies are completely prepared before freezing.  Only
  lemon and chocolate pies have been tested but it seems probable that
  other chiffon pies will freeze equally well.

  FREEZING PASTRY.  Pastry may be frozen separately and used later. One
  way to package rolled-out pastry is to cut a piece of cardboard of
  the same size as the pastry and cover it with waxed paper.  Two
  pieces of waxed paper are put between each two pieces of pastry and
  several can be wrapped together.  Use aluminum foil or plastic wrap
  for packaging or seal in a large plastic bag with as little remaining
  air space as possible. Pieces of frozen pastry can be removed as
  needed and allowed to that 10 to 15 minutes before using in the
  preparation of a pie.

  QUICK BREADS
      A few kinds of quick breads have been baked and frozen with
  satisfactory results.  Probably others will freeze equally well.  One
  advantage of freezing quick breads is to have several kinds available
  at one time without spending many consecutive hours in their
  preparation.

 YEAST BREADS
      Bread and rolls that are frozen and held in freezer storage do
  not stale at the usual rate.  Yeast rolls may be frozen after baking,
  or the dough may be frozen.  The former method of preparation is
  preferred because it is more convenient and because the quality of
  the rolls is higher. The volume, texture, and flavor of the baked
  rolls are maintained for several months of freezer storage.  Frozen
  dough should be thawed and baked within one week after it is frozen.
  Swedish tea ring, baked before freezing, was rated good after freezer
  storage. Other baked products made with sweet roll dough will
  probably be found to be suitable for freezing.

  Source: Freezing Cooked and Prepared Foods.  Frances O. Van Duyne.
  University of Illinois at Urbana - Champaign, College of Agriculture,
  Cooperative Extension Service.  Circular 835. July, 1984

  Typos by Bobbi Zee 1:230/73
MMMMM
----------------------------------------------------------------
[Note: more posts/materials from this section were compiled and edited by
Steven Kostur <[e-mail]>

C. DEHYDRATION

1. GENERAL QUESTIONS

C.1.1  [What do I *really* need to know about dehydrating food?]
     Dehydrating food works on the principal that both microbes and enzymes
     in your food require free water to work. (To a lesser extent, this is
     how freezing works--the water is frozen instead of evaporated off.).
     Generally, you get rid of the water in food by gentle, even heat (sun,
     oven, dehydrator) and air movement (wind, open oven door,
     fan)--otherwise water just stays in the food or condenses on it. You
     especially need to be cautious, though, about several types of mold
     that produce mycotoxins (e.g. aflatoxin) while growing on the surface
     of your dried food.

DRIED FOODS

     Dried foods which take more than 1 to 2 hours to rehydration or
     reconstitution should be rehydrated either in the refrigerator or in
     simmering water to prevent the growth of microorganisms. Once
     vegetables are rehydrated, they will support the growth of Clostridium
     botulinum so they must be handled safely. Any dried foods with signs
     of spoilage or mold growth should be discarded. (section taken from
     Susan Brewer)

     Check out Part 6 of this faq (different file), for additional web
     sites, and ISDN numbers, authors, etc of books recommended below.

C.1.2  [What foods dehydrate well?]

 from Clint Scott <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     Carrots dry very well. Most things do very well....except green beans,
     zucchini and yellow squash. Oddly enough fresh asparagus tips do very
     well. The stalks are sort of 'barkey' but the tips re-hydrate nicely.

 from Anne Louise Gockel <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     I found that some foods are not worth drying (blueberries; yuck,
     although they might be useful for pancakes when camping) and others
     are just wonderful.

 from Stephen Northcutt <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     Besides apples and peaches, I have found that green or mature onions,
     spinach, and squash (zucchini) dry well and make great additions to
     winter soups and stews.

 from Graham Dodd <[e-mail]> (Feb 8, 1996)
     I use dehydrators for making fruit snacks and sweets also for
     preserving food. Without trying to 'Advertise' I also sell them and
     have some excellent recipe books with hundreds of recipes and tips in
     them. If any one would like to know more about dehydrators from a user
     view I would be happy to answer questions.

     In other words, try it. It will either work for you, or it will not.
     If it does not work perfectly for you, it will be great in some dishes
     (stew!).

C.1.3  [Dehydrating Specific Items]

C.1.3.1  [Pistachio Nut]

 Q: I intend to eat the nuts from my two eight year pistachio trees. By
     now the nuts are growing. Does somebody knows how to get those crispy,
     salty pistachios from the nut in the tree? Manuel Lopez Mateos
     <[e-mail]>]

 from H. B. Ghoddusi <[e-mail]>, rec.food.historic (pre-1996):
  1- Once you take the nuts from the tree, first get rid of the peel (the
     thin one).
  2- Let them dry in sun (needs longer time and you need to have enough
     sunny days) or in oven (it is faster but be careful to avoid
     overheating).
  3- Make a bowl of brine (not very concentrated) up 3-4% should be
     alright.
  4- Put the pistachios in a pan and heat it over a cooker until browning
     and bumping starts. Keep on low heating for a while in this stage.
  5- Add the brine (not soak the nuts, just make them wet) and keep on
     heating while stirring until the nuts become dry again, while the salt
     is crystallized over them.

P.S: I have never tried this procedure for pistachio, but I have done it
     several times with different seeds and it works very well.

C.1.3.2  [(Sundried) Tomato]

(from an unknown source, posted in either rec.food.cooking or rec.food
preserving) (pre-1996)

     First, a few notes. It takes about 7 pounds of fresh tomatoes to make
     a single pint of dried tomatoes (I am not sure how much a pint of
     dried tomatoes weighs. A pint of water weighs 1 pound.). This is part
     of the reason they are so expensive (costing in the neighbourhood of
     $20/pound around here). The best tomato to use in this process is the
     Roma (also known as a plum, pear, or Italian) tomato, because it
     contains less water and seeds. However, you can use any tomato. They
     will just take a little longer to dry.

     Dried Tomatoes (yields about 1 pint)

     Wash carefully and wipe dry:

     7 or 8 pounds of firm, ripe (preferably Roma) tomatoes.
     Cut out the stem and scar and the hard portion of core lying under it.
     Cut the tomatoes in half, lengthwise. If the tomato is more than about
     2 inches long, cut it in quarters.

     Scrape out all of the seeds that you can without removing the pulp.
     Arrange the tomatoes, with the cut surface up, on non-stick cookie
     sheets (glass or porcelain dishes are OK. They will have to withstand
     temperatures of a few hundred degrees F if you are going to oven-dry
     the tomatoes). Do *not* use aluminum foil, or bare aluminum cookie
     sheets. The acid in the tomatoes will react with the metal.

     Mix together thoroughly:
      1 tsp dried basil
      1 tsp dried oregano
      1 tsp dried thyme
      2 tsp salt.

     Sprinkle a small amount of this mixture on each tomato. (You may
     customize this mixture to suit your own taste.)

     Dry the tomatoes in the oven, dehydrator, or in the sun. Directions
     follow for each of these methods. However, no matter what method you
     choose, be aware that not all of the tomatoes will dry at the same
     rate. They do not all have the same amount of moisture, nor do they
     experience the same temperature and air circulation while they are
     drying.

     They are done when they are very dry, but still pliable - about the
     texture of a dried apricot. If dried too long, they become tough and
     leathery. If not dried long enough, they will mold and mildew, unless
     packed in oil. So watch them carefully while they dry. Try to remove
     them on an individual basis, before they become tough.

     Here are the drying methods. There is a time listed with each method.
     This time is approximate, and can vary significantly depending on the
     moisture of the tomato. Do *not* rely on this time as more than a
     rough guide.

     Oven-drying (approximately 12 hours):
     Bake, cut side up, in 170 F oven for about 3 hours. Leave the oven
     door propped open about 3 inches to allow moisture to escape. After 3
     hours, turn the tomatoes over and press flat with your hand or a
     spatula. Continue to dry, turning the tomatoes every few hours, and
     gently pressing flatter and flatter, until tomatoes are dry.

     Dehydrator method (approximately 8 hours):
     Place the tomatoes, cut side up, directly onto the dehydrator trays.
     Set dehydrator temperature to about 140 F. After 4 or  5 hours, turn
     the tomatoes over and press flat with your hand or a spatula. After a
     few hours, turn the tomatoes again and flatten gently. Continue drying
     until done.

     Sun-drying (approximately 3 days):
     Dry in hot weather, with relatively low humidity.
     Place tomatoes, cut side down, in shallow wood-framed trays with nylon
     netting for the bottom of the trays. Cover trays  with protective
     netting (or cheesecloth). Place in direct sun, raised from the ground
     on blocks or anything else that allows air to circulate under the
     trays. Turn the tomatoes over after about 1 1/2 days, to expose the
     cut side to the sun. Place the trays in a sheltered spot after
     sundown, or if the weather turns bad.

     After the tomatoes are dry, store in air-tight containers, or pack in
     oil.

     To pack in oil:
     Dip each tomato into a small dish of white wine vinegar. Shake off the
     excess vinegar and pack them in olive oil. Make sure they are
     completely immersed in the oil.
     When the jar is full, cap it tightly and store at *cool* room
     temperature for at least a month before using. They may be stored in
     the refrigerator, but the oil will solidify at refrigerator
     temperatures (it quickly reliquifies at room temperature however).
     As tomatoes are removed from the jar, add more olive oil as necessary
     to keep the remaining tomatoes covered.

     The author notes that she has stored oil-packed tomatoes in her pantry
     for over a year with tremendous success. She also notes that she has
     tried a number of methods to pack the tomatoes in oil, but she says
     the vinegar treatment is the difference between a good dried tomato
     and a great one. It is also important from a food safety standpoint,
     as it acidifies the oil and discourages growth of bacteria and mold.

     ****** WARNING ********
     Do *NOT* add fresh garlic cloves to oil-packed dried tomatoes, UNLESS
     you store them in the refrigerator. Garlic is a low-acid food which,
     when placed in oil, creates a low-acid anaerobic environment - the
     perfect growth medium for botulinum bacteria if the mixture is not
     refrigerated. Botulism poisoning is characterized by a very high
     mortality rate. Be safe and add your garlic to the dried tomatoes as
     part of the recipe for them *after* they come out of the oil.

C.1.3.3  [Dried Cranberries]

 from Marie Martinek <[e-mail]> (Dec 14, 1995)
     I tried drying cranberries in the Excalibur, and even with poking
     every single one of them with a serious hole-maker (the sticker that
     comes with the meat thermometer) and soaking them in a sugar solution,
     they still came out sour and still not dry after twice as long a time
     as the instructions said. I, however, tried making cranberry sauce,
     whirred it through a blender/food processor, and made fruit leather
     with it. Worked quite well. Cover your dryer frames with waxed paper
     and pour the goop on (making sure it is higher on the edges than in
     the middle), dry until it looks right (I do not have the timing
     instructions here), then cut it into strips, peel the paper off the
     fruit (works better than trying to peel fruit off paper), curl them
     up, and dry some more.

 from Phil Rozanski <[e-mail]> (Jan 2, 1996)
     According to "Mary Bell's Complete Dehydrator Cookbook" you can dry
     blanched (checked) cranberries in the following manner:

  1. In a bowl, pour boiling water over the cranberries or submerge them in
     a pot of boiling water with the heat turned off. Let them sit in the
     water until the skin pops. Do not let the berries boil or the flesh
     will turn mushy. Drain.
  2. If desired, coat the berries with either a light corn syrup or
     granulated sugar.
  3. Transfer the berries to a cooking sheet and place them in a freezer
     for 2 hours. Freezing the berries helps in breaking down the cell
     structure promoting faster drying.
  4. Put the berries on a mesh sheet in the dehydrator and dry for 10 to 16
     hours, depending on the make of the dehydrator, until chewy and with
     no pockets of moisture.

I really recommend the book that I mentioned above. It contains recipes for
anything you could ever think of dehydrating. I purchased my copy at
Yonkers.

C.1.3.4  [Jerky]

I really love jerky, and would like to know how to make it.  From Fred St.
John - <[e-mail]>.

From [e-mail] ()
It's really easy. I just made some the other night. I don't follow a
recipe, but rather improvise.

Slice up some LEAN, raw beef in thin strips. Put it in a bowl and add some
salt, pepper, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, vinegar, worscheshire
sauce, sugar. (Be generous with the salt as this helps preserve it.)

Use any combination of the above ingredients, and whatever else you find
lying around the kitchen that seems like it ought to go good in the mix.
Keep tasting it as you mix stuff together until it tastes really, really
good. The very best jerky is spiced to the threshold of human pain-- use
lots of red pepper if you can tolerate hot stuff.

Heat the oven to about 150 degrees F.  Spread the meat out on a nonstick
cookie sheet and put it in the oven with the oven door propped open (for
air circulation).  Make SURE that the heat is NOT high enough to cook the
meat or it will be ruined. (actually, if it cooks, it will still taste
good, it just won't come out being jerky).

When the meat is pretty dry (but not so dry as to be crunchy) take it out
of the oven and put it in a plastic bag. If it seems to be getting a little
damp feeling after a few hours in the plastic bag, then you didn't dry it
enough and it should go back on the cookie sheet in the oven for a while.

Safety tip: Do not use pork, bear, or any meat that could carry parasites
such as trichinoma. All jerky is RAW, dried meat. I remember reading of
some people that got trichinosis from eating bear jerky.


C.1.3.5. [Dehydrator Tomato Paste]

From Linda Merinoff <[e-mail]>:

HOMEMADE TOMATO PASTE
Tomatoes
Salt
Fresh basil
Olive oil

Push your tomatoes through a food mill.  It's time-consuming, but it gets
rid of the seeds which I think are bitter.  You can also puree the tomatoes
in a processor or blender and push them through a sieve or chinois to get
rid of the seeds.  Or you can leave the seeds if you don't mind them.

Spread the very liquidy tomato on the flexible solid ring that fits into
the dehydrator.  Sprinkle with a small amount of salt and put a few sprigs
of fresh basil in.

Run the dehydrator, stopping every hour at first to stir the mixture with
a rubber spatula a couple of times, making sure you stir every bit of it.
When the puree starts getting thick, stir every half hour.  When it gets
almost to the right thickness (which is however thick you like it), stir
every fifteen minutes.  All this stirring keeps the puree from burning or
sticking.

When it's slightly less thick than you like it (it thickens as it cools),
stir again, remove the basil, and pack the paste into a jar just large
enough to hold it.  Put a very thin layer of olive oil on top.  Every time
you take some, put an extremely thin layer of oil on top again.  Any extra
paste can be frozen.

For those of you as absent-minded as I am, I once scooped half a jar out
to discard it, thinking it had gotten moldy.  It hadn't.  The oil on top
had solidified, as it often does in the fridge, and just looked weird.


C.1.3.6  [Unusual parched corn and bean recipes]

 from David Sidwell <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     Here is a wonderful recipe for parched corn. it is eaten by Hopi
     children and adults as a real treat. Speaking of parched corn, you can
     also parch beans. Small, white teparies work well, especially if they
     are from last year's harvest or older. The Hopi make parched beans the
     same way they make parched corn.

  1. Heat clean, fine sand in a cast iron pot until it becomes dark brown
     and hot. (water sprinkled on it should pop and sizzle).
  2. pour in a cup or two of dried corn. (old corn will be crunchy, this
     year's corn will be harder).
  3. Stir corn briskly, to keep it from burning, until it stops popping.
  4. Remove corn from sand with a sieve and pour into bowl.
  5. Sprinkle corn with salt water (1 T. salt in 1 C. water), and stir with
     a corn cob that has been dipped in the salt water.
  6. Add pinon or peach nuts for variety.

Note:     The Hopi nation has very sandy soil. it does not cling like many
      sands but falls away from toasted foods. You may want to
      experiment a bit with the sand from your area.

     We put parched corn in stews, soups, salads, and we eat it plain. yum
     yum. Parched beans are often used as a snack.

2. GENERAL EQUIPMENT QUESTIONS

C.2.1  [Some advice on purchasing a dehydrator]

C.2.1.1  [General advice]

 from Cassandra Richardson <[e-mail]> (Jan 11, 1996)
>What about the type advertised on TV (Ronco?) are they worthwhile?
     My opinion is that most people buy kitchen gadget and find they
     novelty wears off. Why not buy a cheap one and see if you really get
     much use out of it. I dry herbs and tomatoes and occasionally I dry
     smoked salmon after it comes out of the smoker (cuts down on the
     running in and out of the house); however, most of the people I know
     never use theirs.

 from Leslie Basel <[e-mail]> (Feb 4, 1996)
     If you are uncertain about how much use you will get out of a
     dehydrator, you might want to try using your oven as a dehydrator. I
     have done tomatoes for years in the oven, and I am certain that if you
     have the patience to fiddle around, you could make some dried things
     and see how much dried stuff you use. If you find that you are making
     and using dried things, remember that a dehydrator is much easier to
     use than the oven. You develop the interest first, then the
     specialized equipment.

     That being said, many folks use dehydrators to make dried fruit for
     healthier snacks, dry herbs (dried tarragon in the supermarket is
     astronomical). If you do any camping, you could dry trail mix and
     meals to reconstitute for later on. Some canning recipes call for
     dried fruits for a richer flavour. Mostarda is a mustard/dried
     fruit compote, good for meats.

     A garden is a capital idea, but an orchard much less so. You might
     want to ask your friends and neighbours if they are living with a
     fruit tree. We used to be shameless about asking around. If we got
     fruit, we dry it and can it, then give some to the tree owner as a
     gift. It just seems a bit too much work to raise a fruit tree up to
     maturity to see if you have an interest in food dehydration.
     What ever you do, good luck and have fun.

 from Wendy Milner <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     When looking for a dehydrator, consider volume. How much volume will
     you be using now, and how much in the near future? Additionally, if
     you like fruit roll ups, look for a screen with a very fine mesh. This
     would be in addition to the regular sized screen. The fine mesh is
     also good for drying herbs.

     I use a convection oven with dehydrate features. Very convenient since
     I do not have to pull out another appliance.

 from Gary Yandle <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     The reason you want a temperature control on a dehydrator is that
     different kinds of food dry at different temperature. Herbs dry best
     at about 90 to 100 degrees fahrenheit. Vegetables at about 110 to 120
     degrees fahrenheit. Fruit is best dried at 120 to 130 and meat from
     135 to 145 degrees fahrenheit. The whole idea is to dry the food
     quickly so as to preserve as much of the flavour and vitamins as
     possible without cooking the food.

     Another must have when buying a dehydrator is look for one that has a
     fan. Good air circulation is a must for fast drying. Also look for one
     that has trays that are easy to clean. If the trays have places on
     them that you cannot get a scrub brush into then you will never be
     able to get it clean. (Do not let anyone tell you that dehydrating
     food is a clean operation, cinnamon apples and beef jerky make a big
     mess).

 from Connie TenClay <[e-mail]> (Dec 7, 1995)
     I would suggest getting a electric dehydrator as they can be used year
     around and are convenient. Also I feel that a fan as well as a heat
     source is important. Without a fan the food dries much slower and not
     as evenly. While a thermostat is not necessary it probably makes for a
     better product. ie meats can use a higher temp than fruits to
     dehydrate. I have found that one of the best books about dehydration
     is the HPbook "How to dry foods" by Deanna Delong.

     If you have any other question I would be happy to try to answer them.
     I have been dehydrating food for over 20 years with every thing from
     trays over a furnace duct to home made electric dehydrator to the
     commercial one that I have now.

     Please take a look at the dehydrator sources/suppliers/more specific
     details in Specific Equipment Questions (in Part 4).

C.2.1.1  [Specific Brands]

 from Steven Kostur <[e-mail]> (Jan 1, 1996)
     Some consumer book (or the other; name escapes me) suggested Waring's
     Deluxe Food Dehydrator Model DF4171 $90-100  (no reasons were given).
     An Organic Gardener 1995 (October?) suggested the Waring Deluxe Food
     Dehydrator, or the Excalibur 2500 (US$189.95), Press-AIReizer
     (US$249.95), and (IMHO) to a lesser degree the Vita-Mix Harvest-Savor
     (US$89.95) and American Harvest Snackmaster (US$89.95). Such factors
     as amount of control (fan speed, temperature), and how hard it is to
     peel the stuff off the racks .. and IF you had to rotate the trays
     (that latter ones you do) to get even drying ...

 from Steven R. Tobin <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     I just bought a Harvest Maid, also sold as American Harvest, and a
     friend has had one for a couple years and really likes it. The main
     thing is to look for one with a thermostat controlled heater. Do not
     be suckered into one like the Ronco, that does not have a heater. It
     took me 4 hours to dry a load of apples last night, while the other
     kind (w/o heater) will take days to do the same job.

 from Stuart Johnson <[e-mail]> (Jan 1, 1996)
     We use an American Harvest. Have had very good results with meats
     (jerky) and all types of fruits and vegetables.

 from Lynn E Johnson-Conrad <[e-mail]> (Jan 2, 1996)
     We have an American Harvester Snack Master (expandable to 12 trays).
     It has a blower and a variable temperature setting marked for the
     different types of foods. The Snack Master is about $65-70 with four
     trays and extra trays are $24 for two. Ours was bought at a big
     hardware store. For Christmas my husband bought me 6 new trays (that
     he found on half price sale--- yippee) so we will really be in shape
     to dry when our garden goes nuts next summer. My only complaint is
     that there is no on-off switch (power control is by plug and unplug)
     and the noise of the fan, while not loud, can get to be annoying if
     you are trying to hear someone in an adjoining room. My understanding
     is that the Ronco model does not have a blower- so it takes a lot
     longer to dry.

     Beef jerky takes about 18-20 hours- but we like to do it very dry and
     it starts out pretty wet from overnight marinating. We have done all
     sorts of stuff in our Snackmaster and love it. Apples and banana chips
     are our favourite and take about 12 hours. I recently dried 7 trays
     full of late growth celery tops from our garden. That took about 16
     hours to get the thin stalks dry. Tomatoes take about 10-12 hours. The
     only thing I am not happy drying is herbs- I still prefer to do them
     in paper sacks on top of the fridge. They take about 24 hours in the
     dryer (very low temperatures) and about 48-72 on top of the fridge. We
     have dried other vegetables for use in soups and stews. I have not
     noticed any specific increase in our electric bill for the times we
     were drying lots of tomatoes.

 from Phil Rozanski <[e-mail]> (Jan 2, 1996)
     I also have an American Harvest Snackmaster with 8 trays and have
     great results with jerky (it takes 6 hours to dry) and anything else
     dried in it. The nice thing about the model I have, is that the
     temperature is adjustable and the foods are always dried uniformly.
     The other nice thing is the price is very reasonable.

 from Naomi Counides <[e-mail]> (Jan 12, 1996)
     I have an Excalibur and I do not can tomatoes (hot sweaty work in
     summer). I have usually about 25 plants. I slice them (unpeeled) and
     load them into my dehydrator which I keep outside (who needs extra
     heat in the house?) I make about 30 gallon bags of tomatoes. We use
     them in the winter. We also dry fruit, herbs and other vegetables. It
     gets used a lot more than my canner.

 from Steve & Beth <[e-mail]> (Jan 1, 1996)
> What about the type advertised on TV (Ronco?) are they worthwhile?
     All I know is on the advertisement for the Ronco Dehydrator they say
     it take 1 1/2 days to dry beef jerky. In my Excalibur it only takes 6
     hours. If you plan on getting a dehydrator and are going to use it
     frequently do not buy cheap. Invest in something that you will be
     happy with. Point of reference 16 years ago my dehydrator (5 shelves)
     cost around $100.00.

 from Naomi Counides <[e-mail]> (Nov 30, 1995)
     Do you have a garden and fruit trees? The reason I ask is that the
     amount of "raw" material to be processed influences size need for
     dehydrator. I have a large garden etc and a nine tray electric
     Excalibur. Here in Idaho it does not rain much in late summer so I
     leave it outside. (Keeps the heat out of the house.) I use it
     steadily, 24 hour a day and 7 days a week from late July through
     September. When the air has a bit of chill, I take it inside and dry
     apples (smells nice). In the main summer months I dry, rather than
     can, tomatoes. The model I use can dry a half bushel of tomatoes in 24
     hours, approximately. I also dry other vegetables, and fruits and make
     leather. A nice feature on mine is the that the plastic tray and
     plastic screen are separate pieces. This can make removal of
     individual pieces much easier.

 from Rick Buchanan <[e-mail]> (Dec 24, 1995)
     I have a garden master with round stackable trays. It is much faster
     than the models that look like microwaves. A friend of mine has the
     vitaMix food savor. She likes it a lot and I think it is a better
     machine than my garden master. The trays are a little smaller in
     diameter than on the garden master, but the unit costs a whole lot
     less than the garden master. Believe the vitaMix will stack up to
     about 23 trays. Have experience with the Excalibur (microwave
     lookalike), and the round trayed garden master. If I had it to do over
     I would buy the vitaMix with all trays, grids, and liners.

C.2.2  [I have heard you can make a dehydrator yourself. Got any info?]
     Check out the plans/ideas in Specific Equipment Questions in Part 4.
     You really are limited only by your own creativity. Take a read below.

 from Stephen Northcutt <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     Take an old dead fridge, cut holes in the top as vents.
Cover holes
     with 2 layers of screen to keep bugs out. Put 100 watt lightbulb in
     bottom in ceramic receptacle. You can add additional shelves easily by
     screwing small woodstock to sides and sliding in net covered frames.

 from Anne Louise Gockel <[e-mail]> (pre-1996)
     Also, the newest edition of _Putting Food By_ includes information on
     building a smoker with a small fire pit, a ditch with stove pipe and a
     large 50-gal drum (from something like honey!). It is a pretty
     ingenious system.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

D. PICKLING

1. GENERAL QUESTIONS

D.1.1  [What do I *really* need to know about pickling?]

Pickling food encompasses several techniques, but usually involves
equilibrating food in a salt solution, then one either adds an acid
(vinegar), or allows the growth of free yeasts and bacteria to
make lactic acid by fermentation.  If you are trying to pickle food
using fermentation, you need to insure that the salt concentration
in your crock will support the microbes you need, and you need to
control and monitor their growth.  Since you are working with a salt
and acid, you also want to make sure that you pickle in a non-reactive
container (e.g. porcelain, glass).
----
PICKLES AND FERMENTED PRODUCT SAFETY

     The acidity (pH) of a food is of great significance in
determining the type of processing required for safe preservation
of a food.  In the case of pickled products, the foods preserved
are often low-acid foods (cucumbers, zucchini), but their acidity
is adjusted to bring the pH into the high-acid range so that may
be safely preserved using boiling water bath processing.

     The most commonly used acid for pickling is vinegar, however
some pickle products are produced by encouraging the growth of
microorganisms which produce lactic acid from the
naturally-occurring carbohydrates in fruits and vegetables.  The
lactic acid selects for another group of microorganisms which
produce acetic acid that gives pickle products their flavor and
helps to lower the pH into the range where these vegetables can
be safely water bath canned.

     The acidity of pickling solutions needs to be maintained
below  pH 4.5 if water bath canning is to be used.  For this
reason, the amount and strength of the vinegar is critical.

I.   Types of Pickles

     A.   Brined or fermented:  Depends on selection of natural
      microorganisms which will produce acid.  Selection is
      accomplished by using salt to inhibit unwanted
      microbes.  Fermentation is usually for 3 weeks or more.
      Color changes from bright green to olive or yellow
      green and white interior becomes translucent.
      Examples: sour pickles, sauerkraut.

     B.   Refrigerator dills: are fermented for one week.

     C.   Fresh-pack or quick-process pickles:  Cured for several
      hours or  combined immediately with hot vinegar, spices
      and seasonings.  Examples: pickled beets, bread and
      butter pickles.

     D.   Fruit pickles:  Whole or sliced fruit simmered in a
      spicy, sweet-sour syrup.  Examples: spiced peaches,
      crabapples.

     E.   Relishes: Made from chopped fruits or vegetables which
      are cooked to desired consistency in a spicy vinegar
      solution.  Examples: horseradish, corn relish.

     F.   Pasteurized Pickles:  Prepared pickles are placed in a
      canner half-filled with warm (120-140 F) water.  Add
      hot water to 1" over jar lids.  The water is then
      heated to 180-185 F and maintained there  or 30
      minutes.  Temperatures over 185 F may cause softening
      of pickles.

     USE THIS PROCEDURE ONLY WHEN THE USDA CANNING GUIDELINE
RECIPES ARE USED.

II.  Ingredients

     A.  Vegetables or fruits for pickling

      1.   Fruits and vegetables should be ripe but firm, and
           in good condition with no evidence of microbial or
           insect damage.
      2.   Cucumbers should have a 1/16" slice removed and
           discarded from the blossom end.
      3.   Use unwaxed cucumbers for pickling so brine will
           penetrate.
      4.   Discard any cucumbers which "float"--they can make
           hollow pickles (use for relish).
      5.   Prepare fruits and vegetables within 24 h of
           harvest.
      6.   Cucumbers: need 14 lb for 7 quart canner load, 9
           lb per 9 pint canner load.  One bushel weighs 48
           lb and yields 16-24 quarts (2 lb / quart).  Use 1
           1/2" for gherkins and 4" for dills.

     B.  Vinegar

      1.   Vinegar needs to be of sufficient strength to
           assure that low-acid vegetables will be
           appropriately acid.  The vinegar should
           be 5 to 6% acetic acid (50 to 60 grain), and
           should not be  diluted except according to an
           approved recipe.
      2.   White vinegar is preferred with light colored
           fruits or vegetables.
      3.   Do not use homemade vinegar--there is no way to
           know the strength (% acetic acid).

     C.  Salt

      1.   Canning or pickling salt should be used--it
           contains no iodine (which can cause darkening) or
           anti-caking ingredients (sodium silicate or
           tricalcium phosphate) (which cause cloudiness of
           the brine).
      2.   Salt inhibits certain kinds of microorganisms and
           in fermented pickle products, it is required to
           prevent growth of spoilage and pathogenic
           microorganisms.  Salt also draws water out of
           the cells making the pickled product more firm.
           Too much salt will cause shriveling.
      3.   Do not use "sour salt"--it is citric acid and does
           not have the same inhibitory effect on microbes.
      4.   Do not use reduced-sodium salt in fermented pickle
           recipes.  Reduced sodium pickles can be made using
           quick pickle recipes given in the USDA Canning
           Guidelines.  Fresh pack pickles, acidified with
           vinegar can be prepared with little salt but the
           flavor and texture will be affected.
      5.   Salt concentration in brined, fermented products
           must not be reduced for safety.  Do not try to
           make sauerkraut or fermented pickles by cutting
           down on the salt.

     D.  Sugar
           Either white or brown granulated sugar can be
           used.

     E.  Spices
      1.   Use fresh, whole spices in cheesecloth bag.
      2.   Powdered spices cause darkening and clouding.

     F.  Hard Water
      1.   Hard water minerals may interfere with acid
           formation and curing in fermented pickles.  In
           addition, hard water may have a pH of 8.0 or
           higher.
      2.   Softening hard water: boil water for 15 minutes
           then allow to stand for 24 hours.  Skim off any
           scum that appears.  Pour out of container so
           sediment is not disturbed.

     G.  "Crisping Agents"

      These products are not recommended as they may result
      in a product with a pH which is unsafe.

      1.   Lime (calcium hydroxide) which is sold as
           "slakelime", "hydrated lime", "builders lime", or
           "household lime".  When called for in a recipe, it
           is added to the brine before pickles are soaked.
           When used, lime is added for 12-24 hours of
           soaking.  It must be removed from pickles by
           soaking (1 hour) and rinsing three times in fresh
           water in order to make the pickles safe.  The
           component of calcium hydroxide which firms up the
           pickles is the calcium--it cross-links the pectins
           making them insoluble.

           DO NOT USE:  agricultural lime, burnt lime, quick
           lime--these are not food grade products and are
           unsafe.

      2.   Alum (aluminum and potassium sulfates):  Use no
           more than 1/4 tsp of alum per quart of pickling
           solution.  Excess will cause bitterness.  Alum may
           be safely used--it does not improve the firmness
           of quick-process pickles.

      3.   Grape leaves: contain substances which inhibit
           enzymes that make pickles soft.  Blossom removal
           takes care of this problem.

      4.   Hot process: pickle firmness may be improved by
           processing the pickles for 30 minutes in water
           maintained at 180 F.  Water must not fall below
           180 F--prevents spoilage (pasteurization).

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992

EHE-696
----

D.1.2  [What is the process for making dill pickles?]

You have two options, depending on time, tastebuds, and ethnic heritage.
First option is brine curing, where you scrub small size whole pickling
cukes clean; dissolve pickling salt into hot or boiling water to make a
brine; pack cukes, spices, and dill seed heads in a very clean crock;
pour brine over the cukes; weight everything down with a clean plate;
place crock in a cool, dark place; skim yeast scum as it forms for
several weeks, adding salt brine as needed.  [Check out the Tips 'N
Tricks section for a tip to make this job easier.]   When done, you
either refrigerate or pack your dill pickles into canning jars, water-
bath process.  BTW, don't even think of taking a vacation during this
procedure; uncontrolled pickle crocks are the most disgusting things in
food preservation.

The second option is to make quick dill pickles by packing vegetable
spears/chunks tightly in pre-sterilized jars with dill seed heads, then
heat a vinegar, water, salt, sugar, spice brine, then pour the solution
into the packed jars.  Seal, then waterbath process.

Check out some of the cookbooks cited in the back of this FAQ for
recipes, and look at a couple of recipes at the back of this section.
I have not tried any of these, YMMV.


D.1.3  [What makes pickles kosher?]

Check out the Real New York Pickle recipe for one poster's opinion.

Also tells you what half and full sours are...


2. GENERAL EQUIPMENT QUESTIONS

D.2.1  [What does it take to make pickles?  Do you need special
equipment?]

The most specialized piece of equipment that you'll need is a crock,
which is just a large, non-reactive, smooth container.  You need a
big container, because you might as well do a lot of pickles rather
than just a few; you need a non-reactive one (see below) because
you will be working with salts and vinegar, and you don't want metals
in your pickles.  You also want a smooth container, because a lot of
microbial spoilers will cling to rough edges, making it hard to clean
throughly.

Other things you'll need: waterbath canner, canning jars and lids,
timer, wooden spoons, heavy plates, cheesecloth.  One of the most
important things for successful pickles is a cool place.  The crock
shouldn't get above 70 F, otherwise the pickle bacteria/yeast grow
too quickly and spoil the pickles.


D.2.2  [What's a non-reactive container?]

Non-reactive things: ceramic, glass, stoneware, food-grade plastic,
    wood, porcelain.
Reactive: copper, zinc, cast iron, brass, aluminum, carbon steel,
    or galvanized anything.


3. TROUBLESHOOTING

D.3.1  [I followed this pickle recipe, but they don't look like they
do in the store.  What happened?   Can I still eat them?]
----
PICKLE AND PICKLE PRODUCT PROBLEMS

   Making home-made pickles is a time consuming and expensive
operation.  There are a variety of different steps along the road
from cucumbers to sweet Gherkins, so there are a number of places
where the process can break down.  Pickle problems can usually be
traced to the method by which the pickles, brine or syrup are
prepared:

   a.     Weather and growing conditions (quality of your
      vegetables).
   b.     Kind of salt used (canning or pickling vs iodized table
      salt).
   c.     Vinegar (5% acetic acid, or 50 grain).
   d.     Temperature of storage conditions (fermentation).
   e.     Pickling method (fermented, quick-pack).
   f.     Time lapse between gathering and pickling the
      vegetables.

1.   White scum appears during fermentation--the scum is a layer
     of yeast and/or mold:    Safe

   A.     Vegetables are not submerged in brine.
   B.     Pickling container is not sealed.

2.   Pickles or sauerkraut is soft or slippery:    Unsafe

   A.     Brine is too weak (less than 10-12% salt)--allows
      growth of organisms which cause texture softening and
        sliminess.
   B.     Vinegar is too weak (less than 5% acetic acid)--allows
      growth organisms which cause texture softening and
      sliminess.
   C.     Temperature during brining was too high (over 75 F).
   D.     Too little brine--all cucumbers must be immersed.
   E.     Salt is unevenly distributed on cabbage.
   F.     Air pockets due to improper "packing" of cabbage allow
      for growth undesirable microorganisms.
   G.     Failure to remove scum daily on surface of brine.
   H.     Failure to remove the cucumber blossoms--enzymes from
      the blossom will cause softening.

3.   Pickles are hollow:    Safe

   A.     Improper curing: weak brine, pickles uncovered during
      curing, curing stopped short of full fermentation.
   B.     Too much time lapse between gathering and brining (ie.
      more than 24 hours).
   C.     Cucumbers have grown in an "abnormal" way.
   D.     Temperature too high during fermentation.

4.   Shriveled pickles--caused by excessive loss of water from
     the cucumbers:    Safe

   A.     Curing brine is too strong (more than 12% salt, vinegar
      more than 6% acetic acid).
   B.     Too much time lapse between gathering and brining (ie.
      more than 24 hours)-- cucumbers are dehydrated.
   C.     Pickling solution which is too "heavy", or contains too
      much sugar.

5.   Pickles or sauerkraut is dark or discolored:  Color
     development due to iron is safe to some extent but not with
     other metals.

   A.     Using hard water for pickling solution--minerals in the
      water react with pigments in the cucumbers.  Iron in
      the water is the worst offender.
   B.     Use of brass, iron, copper or zinc utensils during
      pickle making--they contribute metal ions which react
      with cucumbers to form dark pigments.
   C.     Use of ground spices will darken pickles.
   D.     Whole spices were left in the pickles after packing.
   E.     Vegetables (cabbage) is unevenly salted.
   F.     Curing temperature is too high.
   G.     Vegetables are making contact with the air--pigments
      oxidize.
   H.     Use of cider vinegar with light colored vegetables.
   I.     Use of brown sugar with light colored vegetables.

6.   Sauerkraut turns pink:    Unsafe

   A.     Too much salt (over 2.25%) = yeast growth on surface.
   B.     Uneven distribution of salt = yeast growth on surface.
   C.     Kraut is improperly covered or weighted during
      fermentation = yeast growth on surface.

7.   Moldy pickles or sauerkraut during fermentation:    Unsafe

   A.     Fermentation temperature is too high.
   B.     Insufficient lactic acid production (too much salt).
   C.     Failure to keep cloth on top of kraut clean during
      fermentation (may need to be replaced after skimming).

8.   Pickles are strong or bitter tasting:    Safe

   A.     Used too much spice.
   B.     Spices cooked too long in the vinegar.
   C.     Vinegar is too strong (more than 6% acetic acid).
   D.     If pickles are too acid increase the sugar, do not
      decrease the acid.
   E.     Use of "old" or overmature cucumbers with tough, bitter
      skins.

9.   White sediment occurs in the jars:    Small amount of
     sediment normal. If pickles are soft and slippery---Unsafe.

   A.     Yeasts grow on the pickle surface then settle to the
      bottom--they are harmless, but can be prevented by
      water bath processing filled jars.
   B.     Use of table salt instead of pickling salt--it contains
      anti-caking ingredients which settle out.
   C.     Poor temperature control.

10.  Pickling liquid in the jars is cloudy:    Unsafe

   A.     Pickles are spoiled--discard.
   B.     Hard water minerals may cause clouding.
   C.     Use of table salt instead of pickling salt--it contains
      anti-caking ingredients which cause clouding.
   D.     Use of unstrained brine (from fermentation) for
      pickling liquid may cause clouding.

11.  Pickles or sauerkraut "spoil":    Unsafe

   A.     Use of unsterilized jars.
   B.     Use of ingredients which have lost their strength
      (vinegar).
   C.     Inaccurate measuring of ingredients.

12.  Pickles are "dull" or "faded" in color:    Safe

   A.     Use of over-ripe or yellow cucumbers.
   B.     Use of fruits with pale color.
   C.     Overprocessing of beet pickles--pigments are damaged.
   D.     Pickles exposed to excessive light.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992

EHE-695
----

4. Collection of pickle recipes.  Some typical, some odd, most
ethnic.  YMMV, email the contributor for details.

From: Wolfgang <[e-mail]>
RECIPE : Salt-Pickle Vegies

    I should have submitted this to the FAQ, but I never got
around to it. I like these pickles because I don't really like
vinegar.  Balsamic is fine, but pure white commercial stuff is foul
(on my tastebuds). This recipe is the way pickle is made in
Transylvania (spelling?).  It was given to me by a non net person.
You will need :
    Salt
    Water
    Toasted Rye Bread
    Jars that withstand pressure (I use Pasta Sauce jars)
    Vegies : (can include)
          - Gherkin Cucumbers (whole)
          - Cabbage, sliced.
          - Carrot (finely sliced)
          - Raw Green Beans
          - Cauliflower
          - Garlic
          - Sunchokes
          - DILL, DILL, DILL and more DILL!!!!! (A must)
    Spices : (can include)
          - Peppercorn (whole)
          - Coriander (whole)
          - Commercial Pickling Spice

Directions :
    For every liter of water, add 40 grams of salt. Boil water
and let cool (with lid on). Wash and dry jars. Prepare the vegetables.
Place vegies in jar, tightly packed, and sprinkled with spices. Pour
salt water over and place a small piece of toasted rye bread on top
of vegies. Cap, and leave in a warm, dark place. You might notice
bubbles forming and a thick white sediment. This is caused by the
yeast fermentation that occurs in the jar. There are a few principles
that give this sort of pickle a long shelf life.

1.) No oxygen. Yes, its starts of with oxygen in the headspace, etc,
but the yeast fermentation uses that oxygen up.  Remember, oxygen
causes oxidation, which spoils the pickle.
2.) Salt. It stops many organisms growing, and keeps the vegetables
fantastically crisp, and full of flavour.
3.) High Pressure. The yeast converts vegetable sugars into gas [CO2
--LEB], this gas increases the atmospheric pressure, like a carbonated
beverage. Not many organisms like high atmospheric pressures.

In 3 weeks, you can try your pickle.  It will last much longer if you
can put a few away.  Taste your gherkin first, it will taste like a
gherkin you have never had before.  The carrot actually tastes like
carrot, not a vinegar sandwich.  Let me know what you think.

[A real New York deli Pickle?]

From: Kurt Rieder <[e-mail]>
A good deli pickle (Kosher dill to some) is made without vinegar.  The
process is a lactic acid producing fermentation.  You need a crock or
wide mouth container, a board or plate, and a weight... like maybe a rock.
Scrub the cukes and put them in the crock.

For a 5 gal crock layer the following among the cukes: 3 1/3 oz sugar,
3/4 lb fresh dill, 3/4 oz allspice, 3/8 oz mustard seed, 3/8 oz black
pepper corns, 1/8 oz bay leaf, 1 head garlic...broken into cloves.

Put the board on top and the rock on top of the board.  Fill the crock
with 8% cool salt brine.  An 8% brine will contain 3/4 lb salt per
gallon brine.  Store at 60 - 70 deg F.  That's cooler than ambient this
time of year in most places.  Consider the basement or some other cool
place.  Every few days use a paper towel or cloth to clean any scum from
the surface.  Sample a pickle when you have the urge... after a few
days.   At first they will be half sours.  A bit longer, 2-3 weeks, and
they will become full sours.

Both are often sold in the deli.  After they are done, lower the
temperature if you can but don't allow to freeze. Most pickles, even
sweet gerkins, that you buy in the store are made this way.  They keep
the brine and recover lactic acid from it.  The brined cukes are bottled
and covered with cheaper vinegar... and sugar, if sweet ones are wanted.
This is why a deli pickle has it over all others.


[Kimchee, 3 recipes including summer and winter versions.]

From: Nicole Okun <[e-mail]>
Herewith, a kimchee recipe:
Half a head of Chinese cabbage
1 large daikon
3 Tbsps salt
Shred the cabbage and daikon.  Place the shredded veggies in a large bowl
and mix in the salt with your hands.  Cover with cold water.  Cover the
bowl with a towel, and let it sit overnight.

In another bowl, mix together
1" ginger root, minced
5 cloves garlic, minced
dried hot pepper, crumbled, to taste
Take the cabbage and daikon out of the brine with a slotted spoon or one of
those wire Chinese things, and mix together with the spices.  Put the
kimchee in a large jar or bowl (I use a gallon glass jar that gets about
half-filled by this) and pour enough of the brine over to cover by about 2
inches.  Cover with a cloth (I just set the lid of the jar on it without
screwing it closed at all) and let the kimchee mature for about a week.
Start tasting it after four days.  When you like the taste, transfer to
smaller jars and refrigerate.

From: Naera Kim <[e-mail]>, in rec.food.cooking
Subject: Re: Kim Chi

These recipes are from a Korean cookbook (translated in English) I bought
in Seoul, Korea. There should be other Korean cookbooks around at
bookstores or at Korean groceries.  You can find these ingredients at a
Korean market/groceries. The Korean radishes are lot larger than the ones
you find in regular supermarkets.  If there isn't a Korean market near
you then you can improvise by using many smaller radishes. If you can't
find salted shrimps then try using finely chopped, fresh oysters and/or
salted anchovies.  I've never used anchovies before but other people do.


Radish Water-Kimchi (water-kimchi is not spicy but very tasty and
soothing esp. during the summer)

3 medium Korean white radishes
1 bundle of scallion (about 4)
2 firm pears (golden pear is better)
2 red hot peppers, chopped.
6 whole hot green Korean peppers
1 C. coarse salt
3 cloves of sliced garlic
1/4 C. sliced ginger
2 Tbsp. salted shrimp chopped
water

1) Select medium firm radishes. Remove roots. Wash and drain.
2) Chop scallions, 3/4 inch in length.
3) Slice ginger and garlic thinly.  Then wrap garlic, ginger, and
salted shrimp in a gauze or cheese cloth and tie.
4) Roll whole radishes in salt.
5) Peel pear and core the seeds.  Slice them length-wise into 8 strips.
6) Place radishes, garlic, ginger, salted shrimp, pear, and peppers in a
big crock or large heavy jar and sprinkle w/some salt.
7) Leave them out in room temperature for 3 days.
8) Pour enough salt water (not too salty) into the crock so it will
cover all ingredients. Weigh them down with something heavy. Cover w/lid.
9) Let it ferment* to desired taste, slice radishes to any size before
serving.

*  Make sure to leave some room in the crock so the kimchi juice can
expand while fermenting.  I use a heavy stone, washed and cleaned.  This
prevents the radishes from getting soggy. The heavier the weight will
make radishes crunchier.  To make water-kimchi ferment more quickly, let
it stand in room temperature for 3 to 4 days (depending on how warm or
cold the [room or outdoor] temperature is, if its warm then the kimchi
will ferment lot faster than when its cold).  Refrigerate after.  You
can also leave them outside during the autumn season.  If the water-
kimchi is too salty then add some more plain water to get the desired
taste.
*  The kimchi will last refrigerated for many months!

Whole Cabbage Kimchi (known for winter kimchi)

2 heads of Chinese cabbages
1 1/3 C. coarse salt
1/2 to 1/3 C. red pepper powder (depending on how spicy you want)
1/4 C. salted shrimp, chopped
2 knobs of ginger, chopped
1 head of garlic, chopped
1 bundle of chopped scallions (cut 3/4 inch lengths)
1/4 lb. fresh oysters (shelled, cleaned w/salt water and chopped)
1/4 bundle of watercress (cut 3/4 inch lengths)
4 Tbsp. salt

1) Trim roots from the cabbage. Cut each cabbage lengthwise into two
sections.
2) Make a brine with 8 cups of water and 3/4 C. of salt and soak the
cabbage in the brine.  Drain, sprinkle with some salt and let stand over
night.
3) When the cabbages are well-salted and a bit limp, rinse thoroughly in
cold water and drain.
4) Mix the red pepper well with salted shrimp. Then add garlic, ginger,
oysters, scallions, and watercress and mix well. Season with remaining
salt.
5) Pack the seasoned mixture between each leaf of the wilted cabbage.
6) Place the stuffed cabbages in a large crock or large heavy jar.
7) Weigh it down with a clean heavy stone and cover.

*  To make the kimchi ferment more quickly, let it stand in room
temperature for two days depending on how warm or cold the temperature
is, if warm then the kimchi will ferment lot faster than when its cold.
Refrigerate after.  You can also leave them outside during the autumn
season.
*  The kimchi will last refrigerated for up to 4 months or more!


[Zucchini relish--10 cups of grated zucchini condensed to 6-8 pints!]

From: [e-mail] (Dave Calhoun)
Subject: Zucchini Relish

About 6 months ago there was a great discussion about food made from
zucchini and I promised to post my grandmothers zucchini relish recipe.
Here it finally is.  I love it and hope you do also.

Ingredients:
10 cups ground zucchini
4 cups ground onions
5 tablespoons pure granulated salt
2 1/4 cups white vinegar
4 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon each:  Nutmeg, dry mustard, turmeric & cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons celery salt
1 each of sweet green & red peppers, chopped fine

Instructions:
put first 3 ingredients in large bowl and mix well. Let stand overnight.
Drain and rinse in cold water; drain again & put in large kettle with
remaining ingredients. Bring to boil & simmer, uncovered, stirring
occasionally for 30 minutes or until desired consistency. Pour into 6
or 8 hot sterilized pint jars leaving 1/2 inch headspace & seal. Process
15 minutes in boiling water bath.

There you have it straight from my grandma. I love this stuff and a burger
just isn't right without it. Let me know if you try it and like it.

[And a recipe for another prolific fruit, green tomatoes]

From: Nicole Okun <[e-mail]>
Dill Tomolives

4 lbs tiny green tomatoes
1 clove garlic, peeled and quartered
2 sprays dill
20 oz water
10 oz white vinegar
1 oz salt

Wash tomatoes and pack into clean quart jars.  In each jar place 2
quarters of garlic clove and one spray of dill.  Boil vinegar, salt
and water together for 1 minute and pour over tomatoes.  Leave 1/4"
headroom and adjust lids.  Process for 15 minutes in a boiling waterbath.
Makes two quarts.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
(end of part 2)



Part 3 of 6
Version 2.7
Curing/Smoking meats and vegetables, Root cellaring, Potting,
Distilling, Dairy products
--------------------------------------------------------------------

E.  CURING WITH SALT, SUGAR, OR LYE

1. [What do I *really* need to know about curing foods, and what makes
this different from pickling?]

Sometimes the difference between pickling and curing is semantic, but
generally curing is salting, etc, without the second acid step.  Again,
by adding the salt or sugar, you dehydrate the food sufficiently to
stop microbial growth.  Examples of salt curing:  salt pork, olives,
anchovies, herring, lox;  sugar curing:  crystallized flowers, syrups,
fruit "cheeses", Virginia ham.  Lye (NaOH) treated foods include olives,
hominy, lutefisk--perhaps lye changes the food sufficiently so that no
self-respecting spoiler would grow on it (grin).

F. SMOKING

1. [What do I *really* need to know about smoking food?]

Smoking food in order to preserve it is a bit different than smoking
food on the barbeque.  Generally, the meat or fish to be smoked is salt-
cured, which preserves the tissue throughout, then is smoked either for
flavor, or to preserve the surface of the meat.  Other items can be
smoked to preserve them and concentrate their flavors, e.g smoked hot
peppers.  Smoking provides the flavor, but dehydration preserves the
pepper.  If you are smoking or curing meat, you need to be concerned
the health of the animal (i.e. trichnae).

1. MEAT CURING AND SMOKING

Compliments of Richard Thead <[e-mail]>
(C) Copyright 1995 Richard Thead.  All rights reserved.

--N.B. This is *not* the most current edition of the meat curing/
smoking FAQ.  The most recent versions can be downloaded by
anonymous ftp at ftp.azstarnet.com.  Get /pub/thead/msfaq.txt.  It
is also on the Web, at URL http://www.azstarnet.com/~thead/msfaq.
html.  I put this in simply to give the reader an idea of what
the FAQ contains. --LEB

----------------- I. Curing -------------

[Why is meat cured?]

  For a couple of reasons.  One is safety.  When meat is cold smoked
its temperature often stays in the danger zone for several hours or
days.  Many environmental factors of this treatment are such that
the growth of dangerous bacteria is greatly accelerated.   The
curing of the meat inhibits this growth.

  The other reason is traditional preparation.  There are many curing
techniques that were developed in the days before refrigeration
that are continued today for traditional reasons.  A good example is
corned beef.

     Oldtime butcher shops closed every weekend.  Ice, the
     only refrigerant available, could not dependably hold
     fresh meat for two days.  To keep unsold meat from
     going to waste, the butcher soaked the meat in a strong
     brine or covered it with coarse salt to trigger osmosis.
     The grains of salt were called "corn" in England, and the
     name "corned beef" stuck with the product. [1]

[What is osmosis?]

  Osmosis is the movement of water across a membrane from weak solutions
toward strong solutions. [1]

[What is meant by "the danger zone"?]

  The "danger zone" is the temperature range between 40 and 140
degrees F. When uncured meat remains in this range for more than 2 hours
the growth of dangerous bacteria increases to a dangerous level.

[What other factors affect the growth of bacteria?]

  When meat is smoked, the environment is robbed of most if its oxygen.
If this is combined with temperatures between 40 and 140F, the growth
of the bacteria that causes botulism is increased.

[What is botulism?]

  Botulism is an intoxication of the bacteria clostridium botulinum.
This bacteria is anaerobic meaning that it requires an environment
relatively free of oxygen to multiply.  It also requires a moist
environment and temperatures between 40 and 140F. The symptoms of
botulism are sore throat, vomiting, blurred vision, cramps, diarrhea,
difficulty breathing, and central nervous system damage (including
paralysis).  Symptoms usually occur within 12 to 36 hours. The fatality
rate is up to 70%.  [2]

[What are the commonly used curing compounds?]

  Salt, sugar, sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate.  Salt and sugar both
cure meat by osmosis.  In addition to drawing the water from the food,
they dehydrate and kill the bacteria that make food spoil.  In general,
though, use of the word "cure" refers to processing the meat with either
sodium nitrite or sodium nitrate.

  Sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate are the basis for two commercially
used products: Prague powders #1 and #2.  Prague powder #1 is a mixture
of 1 part sodium nitrite and 16 parts salt.  The chemicals are combined
and crystallized to assure even distribution.  Even though diluted, only
4 ounces of Prague powder #1 is required to cure 100 lbs of meat.  A
more typical measurement for home use is 1 tsp per 5 lbs of meat.
Prague powder #2 is a mixture of 1 part sodium nitrite, .64 parts sodium
nitrate and 16 parts salt.  It is primarily used in dry-curing.

  One other commonly available curing product is Morton's Tender Quick.
It is a mixture of salt, sodium nitrite, sodium nitrate and sugar.  Ask
your butcher or grocer to stock it for you.

[Where can these compounds be obtained?]

  If you are chummy with a local butcher who does curing, maybe (s)he
will sell you a small quantity.  Otherwise, the Sausage Maker offers all
items mentioned here and elsewhere in this FAQ mail order.  See the
books section for a phone number where you can obtain a catalog.

[What is spray pumping?]

  It is the process of injecting the meat with cure using a special
purpose needle.

[What's trichinosis?]
  It is an infestation of trichinae.  The parasites invade the voluntary
muscles causing severe pain and edema.  It can be avoided by ensuring
that cooked pork reaches an internal temperature of 150 degrees F.

[If my cured pork doesn't reach a safe temperature, what about
trichinosis?]

 Trichinae can also be killed by freezing the pork according to the
following chart:

       Temperature           Grp1-days      Grp2-days
       -----------           ---------      ---------
     5 deg F                20             30
       -10 deg F                10             20
       -20 deg F                 6             12

  Group 1 comprises product in separate pieces not exceeding 6" in
  thickness or arranged on separate racks with the layers not
  exceeding 6" in depth.

  Group 2 comprises product in pieces, layers or within containers
  the thickness of which exceeds 6" but not 27".  [3]

[What about dry-curing sausages and meats?]

  I'll leave this topic open for someone with real experience.  The dry
climate in Tucson makes it difficult to maintain the ideal 70% relative
humidity required for dry-curing so I've never even tried.

-------------- II. Smoking -------------

[What is the difference between smoke cooking and curing?]

  Pretty simple; Smoke cooking is done at higher temperatures in order
to cook the meat.  Smoke curing is really just smoking cured meat or
sausage.

[What are the proper temperatures for smoke cooking meat?]

  I prefer to keep the temperature around 220F.  This means the
temperature *at* the meat.  I use a large log burning smoking pit with
an offset firebox so it's easy to maintain this.  In an upright water
smoker you will have trouble keeping the temperature this low, since the
heat builds up at the top where the meat is.  You can achieve decent
results with a water smoker, but the cooking time will be shorter and
the depth of smoke penetration will be less.  My briskets and pork
shoulders smoke for 20-24 hours; pork ribs and loin roasts take less
time.

[How important is temperature control during smoke curing?]

  Very.  If you are smoking sausages, excess heat will melt the fat out
and leave the final product dry and crumbly.  This I know from
experience.  Here, we're talking about temperatures around 140F,
although it varies from recipe to recipe.  This is very difficult to
maintain in a wood burning smoker.  Mine has a slow smoking section
farthest away from the fire.  With experience, I've learned to control
the temperature in this section without overdamping the air inlet.  Some
other meats, like bacon and ham, are a little more tolerant of higher
heat, but it can affect the quality of the final product.

  The best solution is a thermostat controlled gas or electric slow
smoker like those sold by the Sausage Maker (see sources).  These are
not good general purpose smokers, in my opinion.  I just don't think
they do nearly as well as a log burning pit for smoke cooking.

  Unfortunately for the many water smoker owners, they just won't do for
slow smoking--don't even bother trying.

[Is closing down the air inlet dampers a good way to keep the
temperature down?]

  If you keep the temperature low by closing down the inlet dampers, the
smoke gets thick and sooty and produces an unattractive and bitter
coating on the surface of the meat.  I prefer to keep the fire burning
more freely and control the temperature by providing some draft between
the fire and the meat.

[What are the various woods used for smoking?]

     Alder
     The traditional wood for smoking salmon in the Pacific
     Northwest, alder also works well with other fish.  It has a
     light delicate flavor.

     Apple and Cherry
     Both woods produce a slightly sweet, fruity smoke that's mild
     enough for chicken or turkey, but capable of flavoring a ham.

     Hickory
     Hickory is the king of the woods in the Southern barbeque belt,
     as basic to the region's cooking as cornbread.  The strong,
     hearty taste is perfect for pork shoulder and ribs, but it also
     enhances any read meat or poultry.

     Maple
     Mildly smoky and sweet, maple mates well with poultry, ham, and
     vegetables.

     Mesquite
     The mystique wood of the past decade, mesquite is also America's
     most misunderstood wood.  It's great for grilling because it
     burns very hot, but below average for barbecuing for the same
     reason.  Also, the smoke taste turns from tangy to bitter over
     an extended cooking time.  Few serious pitmasters use mesquite,
     despite a lot of stories about its prevalence in the Southwest.

     Oak
     If hickory is the king of barbecue woods, oak is the queen.
     Assertive but always pleasant, it's the most versatile of
     hardwoods, blending well with a wide range of flavors.  What it
     does to beef is probably against the law in some states.

     Pecan
     The choice of many professional chefs, pecan burns cool and
     offers a subtle richness of character.  Some people call it a
     mellow version of hickory. [5]


[Rick, do you have any politically incorrect views about smoke cooking
that you enjoy getting flamed about?]

  Don't get me started.

 --------------III. Specific Foods -------------

[Can I make a Smithfield Ham at Home?]

  These are unique since the hams come from only peanut-fed hogs.  They
are worked with cure for 30-45 days.  Then they are smoked for at least
7 days and left in the smokehouse for another 6 months.  "The Smithfield
ham or a reasonable facsimile is rather difficult to produce unless you
have a steady supply of peanuts and a huge smokehouse 3-4 stories high."
[3]

[How do I make my own bacon at home?]

  It is my experience that bacon is the easiest product to produce at
home and the results are as good as, or better than, the best
commercially produced bacon.

  I use Morton Tender Quick and brown sugar.  Rub down a slab of fresh
bacon (pork belly) with a liberal quantity of the Tender Quick.  You
can't really use too much but a cup or so should do.  Then follow with a
thorough rub of brown sugar (again, start with a cup or so).  Then place
the meat in heavy plastic and allow to cure for 7 days at 38F.  I use a
small refrigerator for this.  I run a remote temperature probe inside
and monitor the temperature, tweaking the thermostat when necessary.
The temperature is important; too low (below 36F) and the curing action
will cease, too high (above 40F) and the meat will begin to spoil.  I
also cut the pork belly in two and cure it with the meat surfaces face
to face and the skin on the outside.  It helps it fit in the fridge and
improves the curing action.  I then smoke it at 140-150F until the
internal temperature of the pork reaches 128F (about 8 to 10 hours).  I
find it best to remove the skin about 3/4 of the way through the smoking
process.  This way the fat is protected but still acquires some color.
Chill overnight before using.

  If you are using Prague Powder #1, mix 2 oz with 1 lb of salt and use
like the Tender Quick.

  Other sugars can be used instead of brown sugar.  Try honey or even
some maple syrup.

[How do I make my own corned beef?]

  For best results, use trimmed briskets.

  Start with a curing brine.  This recipe comes from [3] and makes
enough for 25 lbs of meat.

  5 quarts ice water (about 38-40F)
  8 oz. salt
  3 oz. Prague Powder #1
  3 oz. powdered dextrose

  Spray pump the briskets to about 12-15% of their original weight.
After pumping, the briskets are packed in a vat, and sprinkled with
whole pickling spice.  If more than one brisket is done at a time, pack
them flesh to flesh with the fat sides out.  Add enough brine to cover
and allow to cure for 3-4 days at 38-40F.  The meat is then ready to use
(but still requires cooking).

[What is pastrami and how do I make my own?]

  For best results, use trimmed briskets.

  Start with a curing brine.  This recipe comes from [3] and makes
enough for 25 lbs of meat.

  5 quarts ice water (about 38-40F)
  8 oz. salt
  5 oz. Prague Powder #1
  5 oz. powdered dextrose
  1 Tbl garlic juice

  Prepare and cure as for corned beef.  After curing, remove from brine
and rub liberally with cracked black pepper and coriander seeds.  Smoke
at 140F until the meat is dry and then increase smoker temperature to
200-220F and hold until internal temperature of meat reaches 170-180F.
Chill overnight before using.  This meat is fully cooked.

[How do I make beef jerky?]

  There are a jillion recipes for jerky--take a look in the recipe
archives.  (you can find an archive at ftp.rtd.com:/pub/rthead/jerky.rcp
--LEB)

I prefer a teriyaki-based marinade (use 1/2 tsp of Prague
Powder #1 or 1 tsp of Tender Quick for safety) with other spices,
lightly smoked.  My recipe is not for publication, but it's nothing out
of the ordinary.  Experiment with your own combinations of spices and
find something you like.

-------------- IV. Other Sources (besides this FAQ) -------------

BOOKS:

 Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing (1984).  Rytek Kutas.
Self published.  Can be obtained from the author at The Sausage
Maker Inc./ 26 Military Road/ Buffalo NY 14207. (716)-876-5521.

-------------- V. References -------------

[1]  Food Science--Osmosis, Rita Sorci Planey, "Fine Cooking",
     Aug/Sep 1994, pp 12,13

[2]  The New Professional Chef (1991).  The Culinary Institute of
     America.

[3]  Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing (1984), Rytek Kutas.

[4]  On Food and Cooking (1984), Harold McGee.

[5]  Smoke and Spice (1994), Jamison and Jamison.

Please direct questions, comments, criticisms, and contributions to:
  Richard Thead
  [e-mail] -or-
  [e-mail]
----

2. VEGETABLE/FISH CURING AND SMOKING

E.2.1  [How do I cure olives?]

MMMMmmm.  Nothing I like better than a home cured olive, and they are
very easy to make.  All that's required is patience, yer olives, a
rolling pin or a paring knife, and a non-reactive container.

You can cure olives at nearly any stage (really tiny green ones aren't
worth it).  Green, red ripe, black (or dead) ripe.  You've got several
choices, depending on your curiousity and your fanaticism.

Water curing. (For the most fanatic)
Generally you water cure the big green ones, right before they turn
red.  You pick the olives, crack each of them with a rolling pin, then
immerse them completely in cold water, changing the water *each* day
for at least 25 days.  Stir them up when you think about it.  Immerse
and change the water, etc, taste one after 25 days.  If they are too
bitter, keep up the regime until they are edible.

Brine curing. (A little less fanatic)
You usually brine cure olives that are either red-ripe or black-ripe.
The red-ripe olives generally turn a grey green to pink, while the
black-ripe ones keep their color, becoming a Kalamata-deep purple.
Again, you pick the olives, or you shake the tree over a tarp, and
collect the olives.  Deeply slit each one using a sharp paring knife,
then plunk them into a brine (brine is 1/4 cup canning salt in 1 qt
water).  Weight down the olives, make sure they are fully immersed.
Cover your vat of olives, stir once in awhile, wait one week.  Rinse,
and change the olive brine once/week for at least 3 weeks.  Taste,
if still too bitter, keep changing brine 1/week.  Mine usually take
about 6 weeks.  Scum will form on the top of the vat; its harmless
*if* olives are immersed, but get rid of it when you see it.

Lye curing. (No fanaticism necessary)
You always lye cure green olives.  If you bubble air through the lye
solution, the green olives turn black; the California black olive is
born.  You pick the olives, clean them.  Save a few of your biggest
olives for the top of your vat.  Immerse all those olives in a lye
solution (2 tablespoons flake lye in 1 qt water) for 12 hours.
Dispose of lye solution, reimmerse olives again in new lye solution
for 12 more hours.  Take and cut into some of your largest olives to
see if the lye penetrated the olive (olive will be soft to the pit,
easy to cut to the pit, and the flesh will be yellowish green when
ready).  Soak olives in water for 3 days, changing the water at least
3-4 times/day.  Taste an olive on the fourth day.  Should taste sweet
and fatty, with no bitterness, a little like a tiny avocado.  Immerse
for 1 week in a light brine, about 6 Tbs salt in gallon of water.

***Lye is nasty, remember to wear rubber gloves, use lemon juice or
vinegar to neutralize lye burns, and your olive vat shouldn't be
plastic.***

Can also make marinades for your cured olives, good flavors/herbs to
use in various combinations are: garlic, bay leaf, oregano, thyme,
dried chiles, fennel seed, peppercorns, coriander seed, orange peel,
lemon peel, lemon slices, cumin seed.
--

E.2.2  [A friend of mine is looking for the recipe for "preserved
eggs" or "1,000 year old eggs". Jim Kofler <[e-mail]>]

from Katherine <[e-mail]>, rec.food.cooking
  I just got a new Chinese cookbook - "The Chinese Gourmet" by
William Mark.  It has a detailed descripion of "Hundred-Year-Old Eggs",
though not an actual recipe.  I'll pass on what it says, in case it
may be of use/interest.

  "Rather than being dug up from an ancient tomb, as the name might
suggest, '100-year-old eggs', or as some call them '1000-year-eggs,'
are actually preserved for only 100 days at most.  Fresh duck eggs
are mixed with various preservative compounds that permeate the shell
and alter the consistency of the egg.

   There are two main methods for preserving eggs in China:  P'i tan
are coated with an alkaline mud and then covered in ash, rice husks,
or tea leaves, before storing in large crocks for 100 days.  The yolk
becomes creamy and very pungently flavored, the white turns an amber-
gray color and coagulates into a firm, gelatin-like consistency.

   They are shelled and the egg sliced to serve as an hors d'oeuvre
with slivers of preserved ginger and a vinegar dip.

   Hom tan are preserved in brine and saltpeter, or a mixture of finely
ground charcoal and brine.  The yolk hardens to a firm, grainy texture
and acquires a pleasing salty taste.  These must be cooked before they
are ready to eat, as a snack with a splash of sesame oil and vinegar
and a sliver of ginger, or to add, sliced, to congee.  The yolks are
an ingredient in the fillings of many sweet pastries.

   Hundred-year-old eggs are valued not only for their taste, but also
for their medicinal value.  The preservation process raises their
alkalinity, making them a good antidote for ulcers and other conditions
caused by hyper-acidity.

   They are also considered a cure for hangovers."
--

E.2.3  [After some discussion on posole (aka, hominy) on the Chile-Heads
list, someone in France asked how you make hominy, since it isn't really
available there. <[e-mail]>]

from Justin M. Sanders <[e-mail]>, the Chile-Heads
list...
Traditionally not lime, but *lye*.  Here is a recipe paraphrased from a
delightful recipe book called "Seems Like I Done It This A-way", by
Cleo S. Bryan. (Mrs. Bryan was an Extension Home Economist in
Oklahoma, and many of her recipes are traditional Native American
recipes).

Hominy
2 qts. dry shelled corn (white or yellow)
8 qts. water
2 oz. lye

Boil the above 3 ingredients 30 minutes.  Remove from heat and let
stand 20 minutes.  Rinse in cold water until all the skins and the
"eyes" on the corn are loose.  Return to heat, cover with water, bring
to boil for 5 minutes.  Pour off the water, and repeat 2 more times
(for a total of 3 five-minute boilings with fresh water).  Cover again
with water and cook 30 minutes and can.  Process in a pressure cooker
at 10 lbs. pressure for 70 minutes for quarts, or for 60 mins. for
pints.

Apparently, if you don't wish to can the hominy, you can eat it after
the 30 minute cooking period.

In more traditional recipes, the lye was obtained by straining water
through hardwood ashes-- or by boiling the ashes along with the corn.
--
E.2.4  [Sugar curing or candying items]

E.2.4.1 [Candying fruits]

From Ellen Wickberg <[e-mail]>:
Martha wanted the candied fruit instructions, so here they are.

Choose firm ripe fruit.  Peel, then core peaches or pears and cut into
quarters, pit cherries, cut small thin wedges of pineapple, can leave
small crabapples whole, apricots and plums should be pricked several
times to the centre with a fork.

Cover the fruit with boiling water and simmer until just tender (test
this with a skewer).  This should take about 10-15 mins for firm fruits,
3-4 for tender ones.  Test this frequently - over cooking makes fruit
squashy, while undercooking makes them dark and tough.  Drain fruit into
a large bowl, but save the cooking water.

For each 1 lb of fruit make a syrup combining 5 fluid oz of the water in
which fruit was cooked and 6 ozs (by wt) of sugar.  Stir until the sugar
dissolves and then bring to boil.

Pour the boiling syrup over the cooked, drained fruit.  If you have insuf-
ficient syrup to cover the fruit, make up some more (same proportions as
above) with water.  Note how many times you have to do this.  Weight down
the fruit with a plate, and leave the fruit in the syrup for 24 hours.

On the 2nd day: drain the syrup into a saucepan, add 2 oz sugar for each
original 5 fluid ozs of water, bring to the boil and pour again over the
plate.  On the 3rd day, 4th day, and the 5th day repeat what you did on
the 2nd day.

On the 6th day, add 3 oz of sugar for every original 5 fluid oz of water,
heat and stir to dissolve in the saucepan.  Add the drained fruit and boil
for 3-4 minutes and then put all back in bowl.  Leave for 48 hours.  On
the 8th day, follow the day 6 instructions and then leave the fruit for 4
days.  If you notice that the syrup is still thin as it is cooling on the
8th day, repeat the instructions for day six again before leaving it to
soak for the 4 days.

At this point you can leave it in the heavy syrup for up to 3 weeks OR
remove from the syrup after the 4 days, drain on wire rack (put a sheet
below to catch the drips).  The instructions then say to dry in a cool
oven, but I don't, usually just air dry.  Pack or put in sugar to coat
and then pack.  Keep in cool place.  Have fun.  Ellen

E.2.4.2 [Candying flowers]

From Lynn Otto <[e-mail]>:
Last summer I spent many hours sugaring violets, geraniums, daisies,
borage flowers, and other types of blossoms.  The conclusion that I came
to after a lot of botched attempts is that the simpler the flower, the
easier to sugar (or candy).  Here's my method:

1. Pick blossoms early in the day, and put them into cool water.
2. Have ready a wide bowl of extra fine, or berry, sugar.  Sometimes I
grind the sugar just a bit more.
3. Beat equal parts eggwhite and water - mixture should not be too
gelatinous.  I have heard that it is possible to obtain powdered eggwhite
and if you can get it in you area I would suggest trying it.  It was
nowhere to be found in Edmonton last summer.
4. On a steady surface ready everything for sugaring: eggwhite, sugar, a
plate or wax paper on which to dry blossoms, tweezers, a bowl of water for
washing hands, and the flowers.
5. Take tweezers, and grasp stalk of flower close to stem.  With paintbrush
dipped in eggwhite, paint all surfaces of flower leaving no dry spots.
Areas not painted will darken and decay in time.
6. Quickly, while eggwhite is still wet, sprinkle blossoms with sugar.
You may wish to use your fingers or a small coffee spoon.  The idea is
again to cover all areas of blossom.  Tap spoon on tweezers to shake off
excess sugar.
7. Place sugared flower down on plate or sheet of wax paper to dry.  You
may want to put a fine layer of the sugar down first to avoid sticking.
8. The flowers should be left undisturbed for several days in a cool
area.  When removing from plate/paper you may wish to use a razor blade
to gently pry blossoms from plate.
9. Always candy more flowers than you need as there is bound to be some
wastage.
10. I still have candied flowers left over from last summers work.  I
simply keep them in a covered container.


E.2.5  [How do I smoke chiles?]

Some recipes and techniques are available at the chile heads www
site.  Check the Other Sources List for the URL.

from Garry Howard, <[e-mail]>, taken from the
chile-heads list..

Americans who love the smoky taste and fiery bite of chipotles have
recently been hit with high prices and a scarcity of product.  With
prices for these smoked jalapenos reaching $15 a pound wholesale,
home growers yearn to smoke their own.  But the Mexicans have been
fairly secretive about their techniques, and none of the books on
chiles describe home smoking.  After a trip to Delicos Mexico, I
think I have solved this mystery -- but the process takes some
dedication.  First, let's look at how the Mexicans do it.

They use a large pit with a rack to smoke-dry the jalepenos.  The pit
containing the source of heat is underground, with a tunnel leading to
the rack.  The pods are placed on top of the rack where drafts of air
pull the smoke up and over the pods.  The jalapenos can be whole pods
or pods without seeds. The latter are more expensive and are called
"capones", or castrated ones.

It is possible to make chipotle in the back yard with a meat smoker or
Weber-type barbecue with a lid. The grill should be washed to remove any
meat particles because any odor in the barbecue will give the chile an
undesirable flavor.  Ideally, the smoker or barbecue should be new and
dedicated only to smoking chiles.

The quality of homemade chipotle will depend on the maturity and quality
of the pods, the moisture in the pods, the temperature of the smoke drying
the pods, and the amount of time the peppers are exposed to the smoke and
heat.  The aroma of wood smoke will flavor the jalapenos, so carefully
choose what is burned.  Branches from fruit trees, or other hardwoods such
as hickory, oak, and pecan, work superbly.  Pecan is used extensively in
parts of Mexico and in southern New Mexico to flavor chipotle.  Do not be
afraid to experiment with different woods.

The difference between the fresh weight of the fruits and the finished
product is about ten to one, so it takes ten pounds of fresh jalapenos to
produce approximately one pound of chipotles.  A pound of chipotles goes a
long way, as a single pod is usually enough to flavor a dish.

First, wash all the pods and discard any that have insect damage, bruises,
or are soft.  Remove the stems from the pods before placing the peppers in
a single layer on the grill rack.  Start two small fires on each side of
the grill with charcoal briquets.  Keep the fires small and never directly
expose the pods to the fire so they won't dry unevenly or burn.  The
intention is to dry the pods slowly while flavoring them with smoke.  Soak
the wood in water before placing it on the coals so the wood will burn
slower and create more smoke.  The barbecue vents should be opened only
partially to allow a small amount of air to enter the barbecue, thus
preventing the fires from burning too fast and creating too much heat.

Check the pods and the fires hourly and move the pods around, always
keeping them away from the fires.  It may take up to forty-eight hours to
dry the pods completely.  The pods will be hard, light in weight, and brown
in color when dried.  If necessary, let the fires burn through the night.
After the pods have dried, remove them from the grill and let them cool.
To preserve their flavor, place them in a zip-lock bag.  It is best to
store them in a cool and dry location.  If humidity is kept out of the
bags, the chipotles will last for twelve to twenty-four months.

Buen apetito!

NOTES : From the article: The Chipotle, Mystery -- Solved at Last!
       by: Dr. Paul W. Bosland, Agronomy and Horticulture Department
       New Mexico State University

       Chile Pepper Magazine - October, 1992

       MasterCook formatted by Garry Howard, Cambridge, MA
       [e-mail]


E.2.6  [What do I need to know about smoking a fish?]

from Doug Smart, <[e-mail]>...
This isn't a recipe, but it is good information and does offer
 something on the strength of the brine:

Pacific Northwest Cooperative Extension publication PNW 238 advises
the following (somewhat paraphrased) for safety in smoking fish:
- Fish must be heated to 160 F internal temp and held there for at
  least 30 minutes during the smoking process.
- Fish must be brined long enough to absorb adequate salt for
  preservation. A brine solution containing 1 part salt to 7 parts
  water by volume for 1 hour will usually suffice.
- Oily fish such as salmon, steelhead, shad, and smelt take longer
  to absorb brine, but tend to absorb smoke faster.
- Fish should be air dried before smoking for better smoke absorption
  and to minimize the chance of spoiling during smoking.
- It is best to smoke at a low temp for 3-5 hours before elevating
  to the 160 F cooking temp. This helps eliminate "curd" formation as
  juices boil out. To avoid spoilage during smoking, the magic 160 F
  temp should be reached within 6-8 hours.
- Commercial smoked products must meet an FDA requirement of at least
  3 1/2% water phase salt after smoking. Since most home smokers cannot
  make that measurement, refrigeration is essential for safe storage of
  home-smoked fish.
- Use only hardwoods for smoking. Maple, oak, alder, hickory, birch and
  fruit woods are recommended. DO NOT USE WOODS FROM CONIFERS.

[Smoked salmon]

from Brian Bigler <[e-mail]>...
I recently responded to a thread concerning oily versus non-oily fish by
listing my recipe for smoked salmon.  I figured it may be of use to others
on this Usergroup, so I'm posting this to the group.  I hope to hear from
some of you who have improvements on this, but be advised, this recipe has
received rave reviews from my colleagues in the salmon business:

First of all, the smoker you use will greatly effect the final product.
I'm not familiar with all the various brands, but the hobbyist smokers
that I've seen tend to be small, for the sake of shipping, and not really
practical for the performance I need.  I like to use cool smoking for
cheeses, as well as warmer smoking for salmon or trout.  I'll describe my
ideal smoker at the end of this. [I put a copy of this under equipment
sources--LEB]

            SMOKED FISH
I use the following for at least two-six pound fish

Brine:
1 gal                   water (at least a gallon, I use a couple)
1/2 lb (at least)       pickling salt
1/4 lb (at least)       brown sugar
3-4 tbs                 pickling spice
2-3 tbs                 paprika

Put the water on to boil, adding the entire 1/2 lb of salt, stir until
salt is dissolved.  Add sugar and stir.  Add the pickling spice and
paprika.  You may not be able to get the sugar to dissolve, but if you
can, add more salt.

Irrespective of the amount of water, you want to achieve a super-
saturated saline solution with the salt and sugar.  The mixture will
be super-saturated when you have salt granules on the bottom of the
pot at a boil.  Speaking to details, the sugar is absorbed by the meat
much slower than the salt.  I've used half salt/half sugar mixtures
with great success, but the amount I recommend here will allow you to
reach the point of super-saturation and keep the salt content down.

Boil the mixture (covered) for five or so minutes, and either set it
aside to cool, or put it in a sink of cold water (change the sink
water several times as it gets hot).

I cut my fish in fillets and then in pieces about two to three inches
wide.  Brine the pieces for 3.5 to 5.0 minutes, depending upon thickness.
Timing is important, don't brine longer than 5 minutes, no matter the
thickness of the meat.  This brine time imparts salt/sugar/pickling
spice flavors to the outer tissues, that then diffuse through the meat
as it dries.  I've tried the products of people who leave the meat in
brine for so long all you taste is salt.  Don't make that mistake, too
little salt is MUCH better than too much.

Take the pieces from the brine and place on a paper towel-covered board.
Allow to dry at least until a pelicle (hard outer surface) has formed.
This could take up to two days if the weather is wet, alot less if you
put it in the sunshine.  I like to dry mine for a long time to attain a
chewy texture, but you at least want the excess moisture to evaporate off.

Smoke the pieces, skin side up, alternating the ones on the lower racks
with those on the upper racks between chip loads.

If your smoker is warm, the paprika will cause the meat to darken
without your having to smoke the heck out of it.  Too many hobbyists
impart a creosote flavor to their meat in the attempt to make it LOOK
like it's smoked.  Paprika is a great way to make it look really well-
smoked without having to leave it in too long.  If your smoker is cool,
the cooking will turn it dark.

Remove the pieces to a cookie sheet and place in an oven that has been
heated to 350 degrees.  Put the cookie sheets in the oven, close the
door, and turn off the oven.  Leave the smoked meat in the oven for
about 15-20 minutes, or until you can see that it's cooked.

I vacume pack mine, one to three pieces at a time, right out of the oven
while it's still hot.  At the least, use Freezer Bags to store your fish.
I've had success with Freezer bags by closing the ziplock to one end and
sucking out the air to mimic the vacume sealer.  Vacume packing assures
that the salt/sugar/pickling spice flavors will be diffused through the meat.

I hate to have to freeze mine, but I do anyway out of necessity.  My vacume
packages will stay fresh if I referigerate, but freezing makes certain.


E.2.7  [Lox, Nova Lox, and Gravlax]

1. from Ray Goddard <[e-mail]>:
Gravlaks(Norway)- buried or grave fish, for a modern version:-
Take a 6-7 lb salmon, 1 tablespoon brandy, 3/4 oz sugar, 1 1/2 oz salt,
pepper, fresh dill.
Clean and wipe out fish (do not wash), fillet, sprinkle with brandy.
Mix sugar, salt and pepper and sprinkle over fish. Put one fillet skin
down on plate, chop dill and spread it over, place other fillet on top
skin side up. Cover with foil and place board on top and a weight (1lb)
on top of that. Put in cool place 3 - 4 degrees C.  Turn fillets twice
a day and pour liquid back onto fillets.  Remove weights after two days.
Ready in three to four days. Serve cut in thin slices with more pepper
and chopped dill, accompany with rye bread and butter.

2. from   <> , by way of Leah Smith <>
Lox comes from the German word "lachs," which means salmon, and came
here with German-Jewish immigrants.  Note that true lox is not smoked,
merely brined, although the smoked salmon called Nova is often
incorrectly referred to as lox.  The name Nova comes from Nova Scotia,
which is where that type of cold-smoked salmon first came from.
Old-fashioned Jewish lox is saltier and oilier than Nova.

Here's a recipe:
1 - qty of VERY fresh, VERY fatty (with whole skin) salmon
1 - large earthenware crock (or wooden keg)
Kosher Salts (or rock salt)
Qty of clear flavorless oil comparable to the qty of salmon

- Skin the salmon keeping the skin as whole as possible.
- Cut the salmon meat into thin slices.
- Within the crock, (or keg), lay down a layer of salt to cover evenly.
- Place one side of the salmon skin scale side up flat onto the salt
  layer.
- Drizzle the oil lightly over the skin until shiny.
- Lay one salmon slice atop the oiled skin.
- Drizzle the oil lightly over the salmon slice until shiny.
- Layer the salts thinly atop the salmon slice to cover.
- Repeat the layers as above alternating salt, salmon, oil for all
  remaining slices.
- Before adding the final layer of salts, lay the other side of the
  skin scale side up atop the oiled salmon.
- Drizzle with oil until shiny.
- Layer salts atop the final layer of skin to cover.
- Cover entire crock (or keg) with multiple layers (3-4) of plastic
  wrap
- Weigh down the top of the sealed crock (or keg) with heavy stones.
- Store in a cool place 2 weeks prior to usage.
- Eat when ready!~

NOTE: This will keep almost indefinitely, however, refrigeration is
       recommended.

3. from   <>:
CURED SALMON (Gravlacks  - from Norway)

6-7 lb. whole salmon
1 1/2 oz. rock salt
3/4 oz. sugar
Pepper
1 bunch fresh dill

Carefully clean and bone fish. Do not wash fish, but wipe well. Leave
skin on. You will have 2 half fishes when done.
Mix salt, sugar and pepper to taste.  Scatter over the fish.  Lay dill
over one half and cover with the other half. (You'll have a "sandwich";
dill in the middle, skin on the outside.)
Place on china plate. Cover with foil and put a one pound weight on top.
(Book suggests a board with a heavy can on it.)

Leave in a cool place (38-40 degrees F).  Turn fish twice daily, pouring
pressed out liquid back between the fillets.  After 2 days remove weights.

Gravlacks will be ready in 3-4 days. Serve sliced thin with more pepper
and dill. (Or bagels and cream cheese!) :-)

BRINED SALMON (Lemrimmad Lax - from Sweden)

1 salmon (or thick pieces)
2 oz. kosher salt
2 c. water per pound of fish.

Clean and fillet fish as in earlier recipe. Dissolve salt in boiling
water. Allow brine to cool. Put fish in china bowl and pour brine over.
Leave in cool place for 2 days.  Drain and dry fish and serve as above.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

G. POTTING

G.1.1  [What is potting anyway?]

Potting generally involves preserving food (meat, cheese) by smothering
it in a layer of oil or fat, much like paraffin wax is used to seal up
a jar of jam or jelly.  This method of preserving food is not for
amateurs, or for folks who have to watch their fat intake.


G.1.2  [How do I render lard?  Which pieces of pork fat are used?]

from Imogen <[e-mail]>.
Hi Jon, nothing simpler than making lard!  The fresh fat from under the
skin should be passed through a meatgrinder. Your butcher will do this,
when you have your meat cut. Take small portions and heat them in a
large, shallow pot. Safety is very important here!

1. Keep a tightfitting lid handy in case the fat catches fire.
2. Use a stainless steel pot, if you have one. They are easiest to
   clean later.
3. Use a wooden scraper to constantly loosen the fat from the bottom of
   the pot. Plastic one's are no good as they will melt.
4. Keep a metal ladle and WARM, HEATPROOF jars handy to fill as the
   lard dissolves.
5. Continously remove liquid lard as it becomes available.
6. Try to push the raw fat under, so it can dissolve versus the rest
   spitting all over the place, while it starts to roast.
7. When all your fat is crisp and your lard out, remove pot from the
   hot element immediately.
8. Never try to refill your pot. ALWAYS do one batch at a time!
9. If you want to use the fried fat later, freeze it in small portions.
   It is very greasy.  Little portions go well though in spaghetti sauce
   for example.
10.You should either pressure-can your lard or simply freeze it.

[In answer to pressure canning it, also from Imogen...]
When I pressure-can lard, I use the hot-pack method. The temperature of
the lard should have at least 170 degrees Fahrenheit, when you seal the
jars with new lids coming directly from a pot of boiling water.  Always
try to fill the jars as full as possible. You only fill as many jars at
a time, as your pressure cooker will hold. I use the remainder of this
batch of lard for freezing. That way, I don't have to reheat it.

As for time and pressure that I use, 120 mins. at 10 lbs (70 kpa).  The
above mentionned informations are based on what I have read in several
books on the subject of pressure-canning procedures for meat.  They all
seem to agree on these figures.  Nobody expressively mentions lard in
their recipes though.  Most have recipes for pork cuts of various sorts
with the addition of either broth or lard.  I want to mention, that I,
for my part, never sell canned lard, only the freezer variety.

Besides for cooking purposes it tastes well as breadspread on Pumper-
nickel with cheese or just plain with a dash of salt.

11.Good luck and be careful. This advice comes to you from a porkfarmer!
12.NEVER leave the hot grease on the stove out of your sight!

Hope I didn't sound like a preacher, but over the decades that I have been
doing this, I have seen too much go wrong. Besides some nasty little burns
from spitting grease I have so far always been lucky.


From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: Help with lard making???

No doubt you've been flooded with advice, but I might just as well have
a go.  Your request has brought back many pleasant memories.  Rendering
lard was the first cooking operation I can remember doing as a child.
Watching the lard on the fuel stove, the bubble off of the water, and
the rise of the cracklings.

The best lard is made from the leaf and kidney fat which is stripped
from inside the carcase.  Trimmings left from cutting are also suitable.
You won't get a huge amount from baconers.  In large, older pigs,
backfatters, you can also use the excessive fat on the back.

The fat from the mesentery or caul (round the stomach), and the fat
round the gut (ruffle fat) should be kept separate.  The lard rendered
from this is darker in colour than other lard and can often have an
unpleasant odour.  Makes good soap.

In any case, do not render the caul.  Use pieces of caul to wrap up
sausage meat and suchlike for slow frying or baking--an experience in
itself, and rare these days.

In preparing the best fat for rendering, remove all skin and traces of
muscle meat.  Muscle will cause an unpleasant flavour in the lard, if
burned during rendering.

To remove the skin from the back fat, etc., cut the fat into 25 mm
(inch-wide) strips.  Lay the strips on a table, skin side down.  At
one end of each strip, make a cut in the fat to the skin and pull the
skin between the knife held flat and the table.  Then cut the fat into
25 mm (one inch) cubes, or put it through a coarse mincer before
putting it in the vessel for rendering.  We find the mincing method
well worth while.  Cutting top quality back-fat from a good pig into
cubes is a bastard.

You can render in a kettle or other vessel over a slow fire, or in a
shallow dish in the oven.  We much prefer the slow fire method--it is
more personal and interesting to do.  And you can control it.

We often use an electric frypan, so that we can regulate the heat
easily.  One frypan doesn't hold much, so we do it in batches, or
borrow a pan or two.  If using a stove, set the pan at the back as the
heat gradually rises, then move the pan to the hot-spot. But watch it!
Overheated lard tastes peculiar and often darkens in colour.

Always add a little water to prevent burning before the fat melts.  The
water will boil off, and when it has boiled off, the lard is ready.

Bring fat and water up to heat gradually.  Stir frequently and skim off
any cracklings (little cooked fragments of this and that) as they rise
to the top.  Press out the lard that remains in the cracklings.  Crack-
lings are delicious, with a dash of salt, and can also be used in baking.

If you have a frying thermometer, you will find the optimum temperature
to render the lard is about 120 Celsius (about 255 Fahrenheit), but
watch carefully and don't push it.  The cracklings will come to the
surface, the water will bubble off, any cracklings left in the lard
will sink again.  The lard is ready.  Strain the melted lard through
clean cheesecloth into jars or other containers for storage.  Cool
quickly in order to obtain the best texture.  We like to stir or whip
the setting lard gently.  Lard can become grainy as it sets. Stirring
or whipping gently stops this. I also follow my grandmother and put a
fresh sage leaf in each container.

Lard can be stored in the freezer for at least six months and probably
longer without becoming rancid. If you wrap the lard, or seal the lard
in its container so that no air gets to it, it will keep for a long,
long time in the fridge as well.

Do you want uses of lard?  It is the baker's friend.  Makes excellent
ointments (we used to make calendula).  Fries potatoes.  Cooked meat
and solid meat sausages can be stored in lard.  Melt lard in pot, put
in meat, pour in more lard until meat is sealed off from air.  Melt it
again gently to get meat out and make sure the rest is still sealed
off with lard.  Much like the confits of duck and goose, done this
way in the goose or duck fat.

Older recipe books, before people became panicky and paranoid about fat,
are full of recipes using lard.  The difference between your own rendered
lard (done slowly!) and supermarket lard is marked.  Home-made lard,
stirred as it cools, is of a soft, creamy texture and always used to fill
me with wonder.

Other bits from the pig's inside are worth having--spleen, testicles,
kidneys, etc.  In our time, we have cleaned the guts to make runners for
the sausages, but it's a hell of a job.  Any questions?
-----------------------------------------------------------------

H. DISTILLING

H.1.1  [What is distilling anyway?]

Distilling, in the strictest sense, is eliminating water from a water/
alcohol solution.  I'd like to put in here other similar acts, such as
preserving herb and fruit flavors in oils, vinegars, alcohols, cordials,
fruits preserved in alcohol, making vinegars from wines, making unusual
wines, etc.

H.1.2  [How do I make vinegar from wine?]

As the French vintners used to say, God loves to make vinegar...
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 13:35:18 -0400
From: [e-mail]
To: [e-mail]
Subject: FAQ Making Vinegar

These directions show how to make vinegar at home using readily available
ingredients and supplies.
------------------
In the late 1800s chemists learned to make acetic acid. Manufacturers added
water to reduce its strength to 5%, colored it and sold it as vinegar.
Imitation vinegar is still manufactured and by law the label must state that
it is diluted acetic acid. Diluted acetic acid is inexpensive and lacks the
vitamins, minerals and esters found in fermented vinegar; its flavor and
aroma are also inferior.

It takes good alcohol (wine or beer) to make fermented vinegar. The
hit-or-miss method of making vinegar by allowing sugar and water to ferment
is not wise. The fermentation of sugar to alcohol by wild yeast is followed
by a conversion of the alcohol to acetic acid by wild bacteria. Chances of
failure or undesirable tastes and aromas are high. Control the process by
using great care in cleanliness and introducing chosen yeast and bacteria to
obtain quality vinegar every time.

General Directions
Winemaking suppliers list acetobacter as "mother" or vinegar culture. These
cultures convert alcohol to acetic acid (vinegar). Most suppliers sell red
and white wine vinegar cultures. Some sell cider, malt and mead cultures as
well. Any culture may be combined with any type alcohol to produce vinegar.

Vinegar should contain at least 5% acid as required for preserving or
pickling. Specialty vinegar contains acid as high as 7%. Beer containing 5.5%
alcohol will yield about 5% acid. Wine containing 11 to 12% alcohol must be
diluted to 5.5 to 7% alcohol before using it to make vinegar.

Acid test kits, sold by winemaking suppliers, are used to determine the
acidity of vinegar. Acid tests are easy to perform and instructions come with
the kit.

Sanitize
Sanitize utensils and containers that will touch the vinegar by soaking them
for 20 minutes in a solution of 2 tablespoons chlorine laundry bleach to 1
gallon water. Rinse everything well with hot tap water. Hot tap water is
relatively sterile after being held at high temperatures for several hours in
the hot water heating tank.

Vinegar Method I
3 measures beer, ale or vinegar stock (5.5 to 7% alcohol)
1 measure vinegar culture with active bacteria

Directions
Vinegar leaches molecules from iron and aluminum. Use sanitized glass,
enamel, stainless steel or stoneware containers less than two-thirds full.
Cover the container with a cloth or stopper it with cotton to keep insects
out, while allowing air to freely reach the stock. Store the mixture in a
dark place.

Temperatures:
Temperatures between 80 and 85 degrees are ideal. Low or fluctuating
temperatures slow the process. At 75 to 85 degrees F, it will take 6 to 8
weeks for conversion. At 85 to 90 degrees F, it can take 4 to 6 weeks for
conversion. Temperatures over 95 degrees F slow conversion; above 140
degrees F, the bacteria die.

An acetic film called "mother" will form. This smooth, leathery, grayish film
becomes quite thick and heavy. It should not be disturbed. It often becomes
heavy enough to fall and is succeeded by another formation. If the mother
falls, remove and discard it. An acid test will indicate when all of the
alcohol is converted to vinegar. Part of the vinegar may be withdrawn and
pasteurized. The remaining unpasteurized vinegar may be used as a culture to
start another batch. Living bacteria are in the liquid. A piece of the mother
is not necessary to start a new batch.

Add beer or diluted wine to the culture every 4 to 8 weeks, depending on the
temperature maintained and when most of the alcohol is converted to vinegar.
Adding more alcohol to the culture keeps it alive, prevents spoilage and
increases the quality of vinegar. If unpasteurized vinegar is exposed to
oxygen without alcohol present, bacteria can convert the vinegar to carbon
dioxide and water.

Vinegar Method II
2 measures dry wine (11 to 12% alcohol)
1 measure water (boiled 15 minutes and allowed to cool)
1 measure vinegar culture with active bacteria
Follow the directions in Method I. Purchased wine can be used, but some
commercial wines contain sulfites or preservatives that could kill the
vinegar bacteria.

Vinegar Method III
(For winemakers only)
Wine containing less than 10% alcohol is subject to spoilage. This formula to
make 7% alcohol is an ideal vinegar stock. Follow good winemaking procedures.
When the fermentation is complete (specific gravity 1.000 or below) this
low-alcohol wine can be converted to vinegar as directed in Method I.

1 1/2 pounds weight honey (or any sugar source to obtain a specific gravity
of 1.050)
2 teaspoons yeast nutrient or energizer
4 teaspoons acid blend (7.5 ppt tartaric acid with an acid test kit)
1/4 teaspoon tannin
wine yeast
add water to equal 1 gallon

Homemade wine
Dry wine containing 11 to 12% alcohol can be diluted after fermentation
(specific gravity 1.000 or below). It's important that the wine contain no
excess sugar. Excess sugar increases the chance of spoilage and formation of
a slime-like substance in the vinegar. The wine does not have to be clear as
this is accomplished when the vinegar ages. At the last racking, do not add
campden tablets or potassium sorbate. Dilute the mead as directed in Method
II and follow the directions in Method I.

Preserving vinegar
To preserve vinegar, add 3 campden tablets per gallon of vinegar
or
Heat the vinegar to 155 degrees F and hold the temperature for 30 minutes.
After pasteurizing vinegar add one tablespoon 80-proof vodka to each gallon
and age it. If desired to enhance the bouquet, up to one cup oak or beech
chips may also be added.
Pasteurized or sulphited vinegar can no longer produce more vinegar.
Pasteurizing kills vinegar baceria and prevents the formation of "mother"
which could lead to spoilage. Pasteurized vinegar keeps indefinitely when
tightly capped and stored in a dark place at room temperature. Temperatures
above 160 degrees F cause a loss of acidity, flavor and aroma.

Aging vinegar
Vinegar has a strong, sharp bite when first made. It becomes mellow when
aged. The esters formed during aging, like those in wine, develop after a
period of six months or more when stored at a cool, steady temperature (50 to
60 degrees F is ideal). This undisturbed rest also allows suspended solids to
fall, making the vinegar clear and bright. Siphon the clear, aged vinegar off
the deposit of solids into sanitized bottles. Introduce as little oxygen as
possible. Winemaking suppliers sell attractive vinegar bottles. Use corks or
plastic caps to avoid vinegar contact with metal. If corks are used,
the necks of the vinegar bottles should be dipped several times into melted
wax to form an air-tight seal. The quality of vinegar improves for up to two
years and then gradually declines. Fermented vinegar can be sold without the
special permits or licenses required for alcoholic beverages. It costs the
same as a good bottle of wine.
----------------------
This article is taken from "Super Formulas, Arts and Crafts: How to make more
than 360 useful products that contain honey and beeswax"  Copyright 1993
Elaine C. White. All rights reserved. ISBN 0-963-7539-7-5. This book is
available by mail. Contact [e-mail] for more information, or
contact: Valley Hills Press, 1864 Ridgeland Drive, Starkville MS 39759 USA.
In the US telephone [phone]; other countries call 601-323-7100.


H.1.3  [How do you make flavored vinegars?]

I tend to want to make very powerfully flavored vinegars (you can always
dilute), so I add a packed cup of herb/chile/fruit to 2-3 cup of vinegar.
For delicate flavors such as delicate herbs and fruit, white wine vinegars,
rice wine vinegar, or champagne vinegar are unobtrusive.  Rice wine vinegar
is probably the cheapest of those choices.  For strong flavored herbs,
chiles, and most berries (e.g. blackberries, strawberries are delicate),
any vinegar will do.  Combine, let sit for at least two weeks, depending
how strong you want the flavor, then filter out the solids.  A little
heat, using either the stove or the sun is helpful to extract more flavor.

H.1.4  [How do you make flavored oils?]

H.1.5  [Garlic (chiles, herbs, dried tomatoes, etc.) in oil.  How safe
is it?  How can I make them safely?]

You can flavor oils with garlic, etc. within reason.  Frankly, garlic
is best preserved as dried heads in a garlic braid, not in a garlic and
oil paste.  It has been tragically shown that garlic and oil pastes,
and by extension garlic cloves in oil, provide a good anerobic medium,
perfect for _Clostridum botulinum_ to develop.  You want to pickle
garlic and other root vegetable flavorings in some sort of acid, either
vinegar or citric acid.  Check out the botulism questions in Section 5
for more information.

Here's another solution for garlic in oil flavoring..

From: [e-mail] (Patrick Grealish)
Subject: Re: Garlic and spices in oil

I have been making garlic olive oil for a few years now.  After I heard
of the possible contamination troubles I didn't like the idea of using
vinegar, so I, instead, roast my garlic which makes IMO an even better
tasting oil. I roast a whole head of garlic double wrapped in aluminum
foil for about 2 hours @ 250 F.  Then squeeze out the garlic cloves into
the oil. ~300 ml per one head of garlic.  This may be too strong (or
weak) depending on your like of garlic.  Also i've tried adding dried
herbs (rosemary, thyme and oregano) to the garlicked oil. It is very
good. I hope this is helpful.

H.1.6  [Fruit cordials]

This is a recipe that I got from a non-net person in Seattle.  I've had
some of his blackberry cordial, and it was spectacular.  He claimed to
me that it was the easiest recipe that you could ever imagine, and I'd
have to agree.  He has doubled it, halved, tripled it, and suspects
that it would work with any kind of fruit, so try it!  LEB.

Fruit cordial recipe:
1/3 part cleaned and drained fruit, 1/3 part granulated sugar, 1/3 part
vodka.
Crush the fruit, mix all ingredients together.  Store for 2 weeks
covered, in the dark.  Strain.  Pour into sterilized bottles. Cork.
Drink.

Even the fruit dregs are great over ice cream.

H.1.7   [Vanilla Extract]

Wes and Kelly Wyatt <[e-mail]> write:
>I have just received 6 nice vanilla beans from a friend.  I would like to
>make vanilla extract with them.  What is my best approach?

From Sylvia <[e-mail]>:
Here's the recipe I have for Vanilla Extract:
Place 6 long beans, split open and cut into pieces into 1 quart of good
quality vodka.  Cap tightly and place in a cool dark place.  Leave for 1
month to 6 weeks, shaking the bottle occasionally.
Before using, sieve through a strainer lined with cheesecloth (or use a
coffee filter), rinse the bottle to remove residue, and pour back into
the bottle.  Add one whole vanilla bean and cap tightly until used.


H.1.8  [Dandelion wine]

From: Nicole A. Okun <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: The dandelions won (wine recipe)

Mmmmm, dandelion wine!  Ray Bradbury wrote a story with that title that
was all warm and nostalgic.  In January, it is *so* nice to open a
bottle of dandelion wine: it's golden and warm, just like the summer.
Not to mention that it's quite potent and you'll get smashed before you
realize it (*hic*!).

The recipe:
3 qts fully opened dandelion flowers
2 gallons very hot water
3-1/2 cups sugar
2 oranges
2 lemons
3/4 cup lemon juice
1 tsp grape tannin (get it at the brew-it-yourself store)
1 tsp yeast nutrient (get it at the above)
1 Campden tablet (ditto)
1 pkg all-purpose wine yeast (ditto again)

Wait for a warm morning when the sun is shining brightly and dandelion
flowers have all opened nicely.  Pick a whole bunch, then find a shady
spot and start scraping the yellow petals out of the flower.  The green
bits will make the wine bitter, so avoid them.  Your thumb will get
quite brown and even a soaking in bleach won't *really* remove the stain,
so think about this before you start.  It takes about a week to get your
skin colour back to normal, and the thumbnail just has to grow out.

Once you've got your masses of fluffy yellow bits, put them in a crock
or other fermenting vessel, and pour a gallon of hot water on them.
Stir to moisten all the petals.  Cover the container tightly with
plastic.  Allow the flowers to steep for 5 days, stirring once daily.
Be sure to replace the plastic tightly.  This will smell bad (but not
as bad as kimchee <g>).  On the fifth day, strain the flowerheads and
liquid through a cheesecloth or nylon straining bag into a crock.
Squeeze as much liquid out of the flowers as possible.

Measure 2 cups of the liquid into a pot, add 3-1/2 cups of sugar and
bring to a boil.  Cook, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved.  Cool
the syrup for 5 minutes, then add it to the rest of the liquid in the
(large) crock (this is the primary fermenting vessel).  Remove the zest
from the oranges and lemons, cut off all the pith, and add the zest and
mashed fruit to the primary.  Stir in the grape tannin, lemon juice and
yeast nutrient.  Crush and add the Campden tablet.

When the mixture is about 75F, sprinkle the yeast over the top.  Cover
the primary tightly with plastic, and allow the yeast to work for 12
hours.  Then stir the yeast in well and cover tightly again.

Allow this to ferment for about five days, stirring daily.  Sterilize
2 gallon jugs and rack the must (that's what you've got) into them in
equal amounts (a syphon is required for this), leaving behind the
yeasty sediment.

Boil up 1 quart of water with 3-1/2 cups of sugar, cool the syrup and
top off the must to within about two inches of the top of the jugs.
Put an airlock on each jug and let the wine ferment for about three
weeks.  At this point it will need to be racked again.  Prepare
another sugar syrup, syphon the wine into sterile jugs, leaving the
yeasty sediment behind, and top up with cooled syrup.  Attach airlocks
again.  Store the wine in a cool dark place for three months, at which
time it should have cleared.

Rack it into clean gallon jugs again, using tepid tap water to top it
up.  It should now rest in a cool, dark place for 6 to 9 months.  The
wine is now ready to bottle.  Taste it first to see if it requires
further aging.  If not, bottle and drink it whenever you want to.  If
so, bottle and let it remain in a cool, dark place for a few months
(check a bottle every month or so to see how it's coming along).  Last
year's dandelion wine should be ready to drink in the late summer of
this year, but it does it no harm to be kept for the long, dark nights of
winter when its cheery colour and not-insubstantial kick brighten dull
evenings.

The flavour is indescribable (unless you've had it before!), the colour
is like a pale white wine, the texture is a bit thicker than wine, perhaps
more like sherry (because of the sugar content), and the sweetness is on
par with dessert sherries.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

I. ROOT CELLARING AND STORAGE OF STAPLES

I.1.1  [What do I *really* need to know about root cellaring?]

Root cellaring is one of the simplest acts of food preservation.  Many
vegetables, especially root crops can be preserved in a dry, cool (just
above freezing), dark place, such as root cellar.  In some climates,
one can even leave garden produce in place during the winter.  What you
really need to know are the precise conditions needed for optimal
storage, and know what cannot be stored next to what.  Also, your pile
of produce needs to be carefully monitored.  Fruits and vegetables that
ripen in the presence of ethylene can quickly age all of your produce.
(The one rotten apple does what the old adage says it does.)

I.2.1  [Storage of grains and flours, possibly also of rice.]

1. The dry ice method....
From: Mick Kunstelj <[e-mail]>

One thing I was after was how long such grains as wheat/rice etc.,
last for.  Rice is an interesting alternative, as it is cheap, can
be used for a lot of dishes (not least making bread), and would
appear to be quite hardy. A method that I use for storing is really
suited to wheat and flour, but can be applied to a number of other
grains (rice) and foodstuffs.

I buy large drums (44 gallon drums or importers pickle container
drums) but any type of airtight drum will do.  Naturally, make sure
that the drum is clean and dry. (I use a bleach solution, not least
to remove the smell of pickles... :-)  )

At the bottom of the container place a good layer of (rock?) salt,
this will over time remove any moisture from the container.  Then, dry
ice wrapped in newspaper is placed into the container, followed by
some more layers of newspaper, then the rice. (I keep the rice in the
bags I bought them in)

The drums are closed but not completely sealed (see important note).
As the dry ice (it's frozen carbon dioxide) melts, the gas expands to
many times its original size, forcing out the bulk of the original air.
After some time, the dry ice will completely melt, and the container
can be sealed.  Important note: If the dry ice has not completely
melted, the sealed container will contain a lot of pressure, and may
bulge, causing a possibly dangerous condition.  What a friend did in
this situation was to punch a small hole in the top of his metal 44
gallon drum, and the pressure abated.  He then arcwelded the small
hole he'd created.

The carbon-dioxide atmosphere ensures that any little weavel/bug eggs
that may be in the grain will die once they hatch, instead of eating/
multiplying and giving you a nasty shock.  Remnant moisture within the
container is absorbed into the salt.

I have been advised that wheat (in the husks) last much longer than
flour, but I have no idea how long rice lasts for (treated in this
way or not...)  . Thus - if you have any idea, I'd love to know!

2. The nitrogen gas method...
From: Richard De Castro <[e-mail]>, misc.survivalism

For Nitrogen packing, you need a tank of nitrogen with a regulator, a
hose, and a small diameter pipe (about 1/4 inch or so).  The pipe's
attached to the hose, and you fill the bucket up with grain.  Position
the pipe in the grain (as far down as you can), and then get the bucket
lid into position.  Give the bucket a shot of nitrogen (3-5 seconds is
plenty) and gently remove the pipe, while continuing to release the
nitrogen.  Then, put the lid on.  You're all done.

Both of these techniques [N2 and CO2] should be done in a very well
ventilated area.  I highly recommend doing it outdoors, since indoors
the oxygen in the room can be displaced by the carbon dioxide or the
nitrogen gas, and asphyxiate everyone.

From: David G. Allbee <[e-mail]>, misc.survivalism..
Nitrogen is available for home use.  Well at least it is here in Vir-
ginia.  Never got any but I called the local industrial gas distributor
and was given prices and bottle sizes in cubic feet.  BTW, I didn't ask
if a bottle rental contract was required but my brother in law, works
for a industrial supplier in North Carolina said no.

And from: David L. Paxon" <[e-mail]>, misc.survivalism.
I had experience with this once.  Helped a friend put away about 50, 5
gallon buckets of wheat, oats, and corn.  We were using welding grade
nitrogen.  I have heard that it is not recomended anymore, too much
contamination possibility.  Now they say use medical grade nitro.  He
never seemed to have any problems but then he never lived completely
off the stored grain for any long period of time.

A concern about either technique expressed by Charles Scripter <cescript@
phy.mtu.edu>,misc.survivalism...
[...].  Someone else pointed out that this will allow Botulism toxin
to form (since the bacteria is anaerobic).  Wouldn't vacuum packed
food have the same tendency?...  And now I wonder a bit about some of
the other inert gas packaging as well.  Does anyone know exactly what
conditions are required for Botulism to form?  (e.g. will it grow in
N2?  How about CO2?  Or will these atmospheres inhibit growth?)

Leslie Basel (this FAQ maintainer), in misc.survivalism.
Depends.  After providing a nice anaerobic condition, the one thing
that _C. botulinum_ needs is free water.  If you are storing flours,
dried beans, rice, sugar, dry staples, you shouldn't have any problem
because there is no free water to support bacterial growth.  If you
are vacuum packing ready to eat meals, meats, fresh vegetables, etc.,
then you probably should worry a bit about this.  I don't have any
info on atmospheres per se, just that N2 is probably not toxic to _C.
botulinum._.  This means that you shouldn't vacuum pack items willy-
nilly, but you'll have to cure meats, rub nitrates into the surface
of the meat, vacuum pack pickled items, or simply vacuum pack de-
hydrated fruits and vegetables.


-------------------------------------------------------------------
J.  Preserving Dairy Products

 [Looking for rennet for a cheese recipe?]

from Teresa Brucker <[e-mail]>, rec.food.cooking..
Funny, I just bought a book on cheesemaking today as I still want to
make that mozzarella.  But the book talks about definately not using
the rennet available in the grocery stores.  There are a few choices
as well:  animal vs vegetable and liquid form vs tablets.  Take your
pick.  The liquid is more perishable.  They give the following sources:

Caprine Supply  33001 West 83rd/ PO Box Y/ Desoto, KS  66018
Misc starter cultures, kits, molds, presses and equip.  Specialize
in dairy goat supplies.

Cumberland General Store  Route 3, Box 81/ Crossville, TN  38855
Starter cultures, presses, boxes, cutters & tools

Lehman Hardware  PO Box 41/ Kidron, OH  44636
Starter cultures, kits, dairy thermometers, presses, cheesecloth,
butter churns, butter molds & colors.  Catalog $2.00

New England Cheesemaking Supply Co  85 Main Street/ Ashfield, MA  01330
Starter cultures (including direct set), rennet, wax, molds, presses,
kits and miscellaneous supplies.  Also workshops.

A newsletter was mentioned too:

Cheesemaker's Journal  85 Main Street/ Ashfield, MA  01330
Bi-monthly with articles about making cheese and a large recipe section.


[Dairy Recipes]

From: Jim Richardson <[e-mail]>, rec.food.cooking
Subject: Easy Homemade Butter

Noticed many posts about homemade butter recently so thought I'd offer
the way I do it.  I don't think you'll be disappointed.

QUICK HOMEMADE BUTTER

Buy the freshest and best whipping cream you can find.  Otherwise, your
results will only be a step or two above the butter you buy at the store.
I find that milk and cream at natural food stores often comes from
smaller local dairies and tastes far better than what *any* of the
grocery chains sell. As with sharp and extra sharp cheddar cheeses, the
typical quality has gone *way* down over the past 20 years, as people who
live in "dairy country" know well.  Even the skim milk from some of these
smaller dairies has a richness somewhere between "grocery chain" whole
milk and 2% -- and it tastes far better.

Chill your blender in your freezer for 20 minutes.  Remove and add 2 cups
cold (but not frozen) whipping cream + 1/4 tsp salt + a few drops yellow
food coloring.  Blend on high for about 20 seconds, or until the cream
stiffly sticks to the blender blades.  Add 1/2 cup of ice water, no ice.
Blend on high about 3 minutes, stopping to scrape the sides as needed,
until all the butter fully separates from the water/liquid.  Remove from
blender, put into the middle of a handkerchief.  Chill further, if
necessary, then twist and wring it tightly, removing the water.  This
will make about a stick and a half's worth of butter.  Make it the same
day as you'll serve it.  Shape into curls or balls.  Your guests won't
forget it.
[N.B.--In case you don't have a blender, or you want to do it the
authentic Wisconsin-elementary school method, can take a very clean
Miracle Whip jar, fill 1/4 with cream or non-homogenized milk, cover,
shake the jar until you get butter.  Make sure you don't fill the jar,
as you need the space to shake the liquid, and don't try it with homo-
genized milk because the milkfat globules are too small and too evenly
distributed throughout the milk to form butter.--LEB]


From: James Harvey <[e-mail]>
How to make homemade Devonshire Cream

Devonshire cream is just another name for clotted cream (or perhaps
just for clotted cream made in Devonshire?)  Clotted cream is the
richest form of cream at 55% butterfat by weight.  A traditional way
to eat it is loaded on scones already spread with fresh butter, and
topped with blackcurrant jam.  Here are two basic methods of making it:

***** Clotted cream, traditional method *****
Put the cream in an earthenware or enameled bowl, or a stainless steel
milk pan.  Heat gently over very low heat or in a basin of water for up
to six hours until the cream has a rich wrinkled crusty look.  You must
never let it boil.  Set the pan to cool overnight (in the refrigerator
is OK but obviously not traditional :)  In the morning, lift off the
clout that has formed and store in jars or lidded pots in the refrigerator.

***** Clotted cream, quick method *****
This method requires a bain marie or double boiler, and a thermometer.
Heat the cream until it reaches a temperature of 170 to 180 degrees
Fahrenheit (76 to 82 degrees Centigrade).  Stir it once to distribute
the heat.  Keep the cream at this temperature (not more than 190 degrees
Farenheit (87 degrees Centigrade)) for an hour until it looks wrinkled
and crusty.  Cool quickly by standing in a bowl of cold water, then set
the pan in the refrigerator overnight.  In the morning lift off the clot
that has formed and store in jars or lidded pots in the refrigerator.  I
have used the second recipe, starting with U.S. light cream (equivalent
to British single cream, about 18% butterfat by weight) with good
results.  Of course, results using commercial cream will not be able to
match the best products of particular farms.

From: Kim Pratt <[e-mail]>
Stirred-Curd Cheddar Recipe

A few people requested this recipe for making Stirred-Curd Cheddar
Cheese.  By the way, it tastes great!  This recipe assumes that you
know the basics for making cheese.  It uses 2 gallons of milk (can be
doubled etc).

1) Heat milk to 90 degrees, stir in 1/2 cup cultured buttermilk, cover,
   let sit for 45 minutes at 90 degrees.
2) Add 1/4 tablet rennet, let sit for 45 minutes at 90 degrees.
3) Cut curds and let sit for 15 minutes.
4) Stir curds gently and warm to 100 degrees over the next 30 minutes.
5) Hold for 30 minutes at 100 degrees.
6) Drain curds, put curds back in pot without whey.
7) Add salt (2T) and work it into the curds.
8) Allow curds to sit at 100 degrees for 1 hour.
9) Press curd for 24 hours.
10) Air dry cheese for 2-3 days.
11) Age as long as you can stand it at 40 to 55 degrees.

If you eat this cheese at 3 weeks, it tastes like a Jack cheese.  After
about 2 months it starts tasting like Cheddar (mild).  It takes about 6
months for it to be sharp.

(end of part 3)



Part 4 of 6
Version 2.7
Specific Equipment Questions, Equipment sources, and Tips 'n Tricks

===================================================================
-----------------II. Specific Equipment Questions-----------------
===================================================================

A.  CANNERS--PRESSURE AND WATERBATH, CANNING EQUIPMENT

A.1  [I see different sized canners for sale.  Why should I get a big one?]

from Dirk W. Howard <[e-mail]>
My wife and I have two All-American canners.  One can do a double stack of
pints and a single stack of quarts, and the other can do a triple stack of
pints and a double stack of quarts.  I like the large capacity.  It means
that in a 75 minute processing time I can do anywhere from 9 to 18 pints
in the "smaller" canner and up to 27 pints in the "large" canner.  Total
would be 45 pints if running both canners.  As opposed to 375 minutes (3
hours 15 minutes) to process 45 pints in a single 9 pint canner.  OK, this
isn't fair since I did gauge two canners on one.  Let's say that your goal
was to process 36 pints of green beans.  In a single stack canner that is
four different batches.  Just the processing time alone is 5 hours.  This
doesn't count the vent time and the cool down.  A canner that can have a
double stack of pints cuts the processing time down to 2-1/2 hours.  This
can be worth the extra price of the canner and the trouble (minimal) to
work with.

A.2  [I got this pressure canner (not cooker!) for a gift.  How do I take
care of it?]

From: [e-mail] (Gary Phillips x397)
The two largest US manufacturers of pressure canners for home use are Mirro
and Presto. I imagine their products are available in Canada and if you can
find a hardware or cooking supply store that handles either brand they will
be able to special order these items for you even if they don't have them
in stock.

My present canner is a Mirro. It does 7 quart jars at once, operates at a
choice of 5, 10, or 15 psi, and cost me about $50 in US currency six years
ago.  It was the least expensive model offered by a local hardware store
from stock, and prices went up from there to as high as $100.  It has been
well worth the investment.

Do NOT buy a pressure *cooker* for canning.  Although most of them purport
to be suitable for doing a few jars (3 or 4) at a time, in fact they can't
hold the temperature and pressure evenly enough for really safe operation.

From: [e-mail] (Gary Phillips x397)
>Yes I bet...I would love to find one at a garage sale.  BTW if I ever do,
>do you know what to look for to make sure it is still operating safely?

Sure.  Check the rim of both pan and lid to make sure there are no nicks
or damage to the interlocking tabs.  Make sure the safety pressure re-
lease (usually a rivet-like rubber plug) is still present and soft and
moving freely in its slightly oversized hole.  Check the gasket that goes
between pan and lid for cracks or hardening.  Make sure the pressure vent
is clean and open, and that the seat for the pressure release weight is
smooth and fits well.  If there is a pressure gauge, it may need recali-
bration.  Contact the manufacturer for information about that.  It would
probably be a good idea to order a new gasket and a safety release at the
same time. (And an instruction manual if you didn't get one with the canner.)

When you are satisfied that everything is present and working, run a test
with just water in the pan.  Raise pressure to 5 psi and hold it for 15 or
20 minutes, watching carefully for leaks or drips that might indicate pro-
blems.  If there is a safety interlock to prevent opening while pressure
is present examine it to determine whether it has activated.  Allow pres-
sure to drop and make sure the interlock doesn't release (not by trying to
open the pan under pressure, but by visual examination) until pressure is
gone and you can remove the release weight without any steam escaping.
----
Care Of Pressure Canning Equipment

To preserve low-acid foods which are safe, good tasting and
nutritious, you need to correctly use equipment which is
well-maintained and in good operating condition.

Safety Vents or Petcocks:

    -     Be sure the vent is clear and unobstructed.  Use Q-tip
      or cotton string to clean.
    -     Be sure vent tubes are screwed tightly into lid.
    -     If it is a model with vent under the handle, be sure
      the lever is moving freely.
    -     If it is a model with a petcock, be sure it opens and
      closes freely, either by screwing or flipping the lever
      up and down.
    -     If there is a film from hard water on the petcock, and
      it can be unscrewed from the lid, soak the parts in
      vinegar, then wash and dry.
    -     A ball and socket type petcock can be cleaned with
      silver polish.

Safety Overpressure Plugs:

    -     If it is a metal alloy or composition metal plug that
      screws into the lid, do not try to remove it.
    -     If it is a rubber plug, use the thumbnail test to see
      if the rubber is still pliable enough.  If pressure
      with thumbnail leaves a permanent dent in the rubber it
      is too brittle for safe use and should be replaced.
    -     If either type of plug has been blown out by
      overpressure in the canner, it must be replaced by a
      new plug. Do not try to reuse the plug that blew out.

Gaskets:

    -     Soak gasket in hot water for an hour to soften before
      the first use of the season.
    -     Insert gasket into its groove in lid.  If it is either
      too shrunken to fit to the edge, or too stretched to
      lie smoothly in the lid, it must be replaced.
    -     Use thumbnail test - if pressure with thumbnail leaves
      a permanent dent in rubber, it is too brittle and
      should be replaced. Rubber safety plug should be
      replaced at the same time, since it will probably be
      too brittle also.

Pressure Gauge:

    -     Have dial and pop-up gauges tested every year before
      canning season at your local Cooperative Extension
      Office.  If it is inaccurate it must be replaced.
    -     Check entrance port and carefully remove any debris
      that may have accumulated.
    -     Be sure gauge is screwed firmly into lid.  If it
      attaches with a nut on the underside of the lid, be
      sure the nut is tight.

Weighted Pressure Regulators:

    -     Have no moving parts so there is no need to have them
      tested for accuracy.
    -     Be sure they are clean, with no debris or food residue
      encrusted especially in the sockets where the weight
      fits over its vent.
    -     Be sure the entrance port and vent pipe are open and
      unobstructed.
    -     Be sure there are no nicks or damage to the weight or
      to the tip of the vent pipe where the weight fits.

Canner Lids:

    -     Be sure handles are securely attached.
    -     Be sure gasket fits smoothly into its groove in the
      lid.
    -     Set lid on canner and turn to lock it into place. It
      should turn on smoothly and easily.
    -     If it does not turn on easily, check to be sure gasket
      is properly seated in its groove. Adjust if necessary.
    -     If the gasket is properly seated, check the lid. If the
      lid is warped or bent, it might be replaceable. Contact
      the manufacturer. If it is an old model or no longer
      manufactured, there may be no way to continue using it
      as a pressure canner.  It may be used as a regular pot
      for cooking.  If this is the case, remove the gasket,
      and if possible open or remove the gauge and
      overpressure plugs or petcocks, to avoid the
      possibility of pressure buildup.
    -     If there is no visible problem but the lid continues to
      be tight, a small amount of petroleum jelly or cooking
      oil may be applied to the gasket to lubricate it.

Canner:

    -     Be sure there is a rack in the canner.
    -     Check the bottom for flatness. Older model canners may
      warp if overheated. If the bottom is not flat or the
      canner will not sit flat on the heating element or
      burner of the stove, it should not be used for canning.
      Warped canners may be used for cooking. Once warped,
      the damage can not be reversed.
    -     Put 1 inch of water in the canner, close the lid, heat
      the water and pressurize the canner.  Check to see if
      steam is escaping at any point other than the petcock
      or safety vent.
    -     If steam is escaping around the gasket and it seems to
      be properly in place, a small amount of petroleum
      jelly, or cooking oil, may be rubbed around the gasket.

      This will soften it and help it to seat more securely.
      Too much oil or jelly will over-soften the rubber, and
      will leave a sticky residue on the canner.

    -     With weighted gauge canners, if the weight only hisses
      continuously and does not rock or jiggle intermittently
      as the manufacturers' directions specify, check to see
      if the stove is level. This type of weight must hang in
      a centered position on a vertical vent. If the stove is
      not level the weight will not hang properly and steam
      will escape in a continuous stream from the side, and
      pressure will not build up properly.
    -     If steam is escaping around the base of any of the
      vents (dial gauge, weight vent, safety vent, petcock)
      where they screw into the lid, and if you can screw
      them out of the lid, the threads can be wrapped with
      plumber's tape to seal them. Plumber's tape is a
      stretchy, non-sticky silicon tape used to seal threads.
      It is available in small rolls from a hardware store.
      Be sure to wrap the tape in the right direction, so
      that when you screw the vent back into the lid, the
      direction of the turning does not unwrap the tape.

Canner Use

    -     Follow manufacturers' directions for use of your
      particular model.
    -     Use canner on the appropriately sized burner.  A canner
      should not hang over the edge of the burner by more
      than 2 inches on either side.
    -     Be sure to center the canner on the burner.  Some
      ranges do not allow enough space to center a large
      canner on rear burners. [N.B. Those newfangled smooth-top
      burners are a *poor* idea for either a waterbath or pressure
      canner, both appliances are too heavy, and the burner can't
      take it.--Diane Hamilton?]

    -     Be sure lid is securely locked on (turned on, or
      screwed down).
    -     If your canner has six or eight large screws and wing
      nuts to close it, screw them down in opposite pairs. If
      there are six, screw numbers 1 and 4 down part way,
      then 2 and 5, then 3 and 6, then return to the first
      pair to finish tightening continuing around the lid.
    -     For all models, be sure to vent the canner for 10
      minutes on high heat with a full stream of steam
      escaping.  This is necessary to remove air from the
      canner.  Air remaining inside will lower the maximum
      temperature achievable, and may cause underprocessing
      of the food.  After the 10 min. venting, close the
      petcock, or place the safety weight or weighted
      pressure regulator on the vent. Allow the pressure to
      build to 10 psig, or to 5 or 15 psig if you are
      processing at those pressures. (psig means Pounds per
      Square Inch by Gauge, the measure of pressure.)  Be
      sure that you use the proper time for the pressure
      level that you are using.  Check the new USDA Home
      Canning Guide for safe recommendations.
    -     When canner reaches the specified pressure, begin
      counting the processing time.
    -     Reduce heat gradually to maintain the pressure without
      over-pressurizing. With a weighted pressure regulator,
      leaving the heat on too high will not increase the
      pressure, but will cause excess steam loss from the
      canner, since steam will be escaping continuously.
      Surpassing the specified pressure in a dial gauge
      canner will result in soft, mushy or darkened food, and
      excessive vitamin loss.
    -     If the pressure drops below its proper level during
      processing, increase the heat to bring the pressure
      back up, then begin the timing over again from zero,
      for the full specified time.
    -     Never run cold water over a canner to cool it. While
      newer, lightweight aluminum canners will not warp the
      way old ones did, the full, slow cool-down time is
      necessary for adequate process time. Shortening the
      time by cooling the canner with water is unsafe. In
      addition, excessively rapid cooling may cause jars in
      the canner to crack or explode as the pressure in the
      canner drops more rapidly than the pressure in the
      jars.


    -     When the pressure has dropped to zero, wait another 1
      minute before opening the canner.  On some models the
      pressure drop will be visible when the overpressure
      plug drops back into the lid, the rubber plug is no
      longer bulged, or the dial gauge will read zero.
      Smaller canners will take at least 30 minutes to cool,
      larger ones may take over an hour.
    -     Open the petcock or remove the safety weight carefully
      and wait until any rush of steam has stopped. Then open
      the lid and tilt the back edge up first, so that it
      directs the steam away from your face.
    -     Remove the jars immediately. Do not leave jars sitting
      in a hot canner overnight, spoilage may result.

Canner Storage:

    -     It is acceptable to leave clean water in the canner if
      you are going to be canning again the next day. However
      if much juice from the jars escaped and the water in
      the canner is colored it should be discarded.
    -     Turn the lid upside down and rest it on the canner. The
      weight of the lid should not be resting on the gasket
      during storage as it could deform it.
    -     For long-term storage at the end of the season, wash
      and dry the canner well. Be sure all the parts (safety
      weight, rack, etc.) are in the canner. A few crumpled
      newspapers in the canner will absorb moisture and
      odors.
    -     If you unscrew the gauge or vents, coat the threads
      lightly with petroleum jelly to prevent rust and make
      them easier to replace.
    -     Coat the gasket very lightly with petroleum jelly or
      oil.


Burpee, Health, National Victory and Dixie canners are no longer
manufactured, and no parts or service are available for these
canners.  Parts and service are available for Presto, Mirro and
All American, and for some models of National Presto, Kwik Kook,
Steamliner and Maid of Honor. If you need further assistance or
have other problems, contact your local Cooperative Extension
Office.

If you are thinking of buying a canner at a garage sale, check to
be sure you can open and close the petcocks.  Look for stains of
drips down the sides or on the lid near the vents, they may
indicate that the lid does not seal or leaks steam all the time.
Check that the lid twists on and off easily.  Check the condition
of the gasket.  Check that the base is flat. A rounded base
indicates that the canner is warped.  Check that there is a rack.

Buying any of the models listed above as having parts and service
available is a much better bet than one of the older ones.

Prepared by Mary A. Keith, Foods and Nutrition, August, 1991
Revised by M. Susan Brewer, Foods and Nutrition, June, 1992
EHE-704
----

A.3 [The instructions say the the appropriate pressure is being maintained
when the weight jiggles about 4 times a minute.  When I have the weight set
to 15 pounds, I cannot get this to happen.  It is either jiggling almost
all the time or only 1-2 times a minute.]

Two answers from two rec.food.preservers.

From John Taylor <[e-mail]>:
Jiggling once or twice a minute is fine.  It indicates that you have full
pressure in the canner, which means it's at the desired temperature.  If
this is happening at a constant heat setting, it also indicates that the
temperature is not falling and then rising again (which you wouldn't want).
Sounds like you've got an appropriate setting for the flame.

From Richard Nielsen <[e-mail]>:
I've had similar problems with a Mirro 12 qt.  I finally decided to let
jiggle most of the time.  I add an extra cup or two of water and I've
never had it even come close to boiling dry in a 90 min process time.


A.4  [Other ways of cleaning a pressure canner..]

Compiled by Tracy L. Carter <[e-mail]>:
Here is a summary of the response I got for cleaning out my nasty looking
pressure canner when I forgot to add vinegar.

1.  Put in water and cream of tarter.  Bring up to pressure for a certain
number of minutes and let come back to room pressure naturally before re-
moving lid.  If you want the exact instructions, let me know, and I will
go into my other account for them.

2.  Scrub with a brillo pad.  Thought about that, but didn't know if I
should scratch the inside of it or not.

3.  Cook a batch of tomatoes/tomato juice in the pressure cooker.
________

A.5  [Where can I find canning equipment parts?]
----
SOURCES OF CANNING EQUIPMENT

PRESSURE CANNERS

        Liquid        Jar            Gauge    Parts   Repair
        capacity      capacity       type     avail-  service
         quarts       quarts  pints           able


  Mirro     12, 22           4    10     weight    yes      no
        (4,6,8 cookers)  7    20

  Presto    13,17,22         4     8     dial      yes      yes
                 7    16     weight

  Wisconsin Alumin. 7,10,15  4     4     dial      yes      yes

  "All-American"  21,25,30                         yes      no

  Dixie Canner (sells the All-American line)

  Canners previously made, with no available parts or service:
     National Victory         Health
     Burpee                   Dixie

   Note: replacements and testing also available Presto for
spring-type "pop-up" pressure regulator.

   Presto also services and carries parts for:
     Steamliner
     Maid of Honor, Model 620
     Kook Kwik, Models "Best Made" and "Merit"


BOILING WATER CANNERS
                     Jar capacity
          Volume capacity       quarts    pints

  Mirro                 21              7         9

  General Housewares  12, 21            7         8

  Glashaus - Weck                       8         11
  (electric self-contained heating unit)


JARS AND LIDS  jar sizes

  Ball
     jelly, 0.5, 1, 1.5 pint, quart, 0.5 gallon regular mouth
     1, 1.5 pint, quart, 0.5 gallon wide mouth

  Golden Harvest
     0.5 pint, pint, quart regular mouth
     0.5 pint, pint, quart in wide mouth

  Kerr
     jelly, 0.5, 1, 1.5 pint, quart regular mouth
     1, 1.5 pint, quart wide mouth


Addresses for sources:

Mirro Aluminum Corp., P.O. Box 409, Manitowoc, WI, 54220-0409
     [phone]  ** also sells Foley, Earthgrown brands

National Presto Industries Inc., 3925 N. Hastings Way,  Eau Claire,
WI, 54703 [phone] {correction thanks to Lois Grassl at ltg@
quality.cray.com}

Wisconsin Aluminum Foundry Co., P.O.Box 246, Manitowoc, WI,
54221-0246
     [phone]

Dixie Canner Equipment Co., Box 1348, Athens, GA., 30603
     [phone]

General Housewares, P.O. Box 4066, Terre Haute, IN, 47804
     [phone]

Ball Corp., 345 S. High St., Muncie, IN, 47302
     [phone]

Kerr Glass Manufacturing Corp., 2444 West 16th St., Chicago, IL,
60608
     [phone]  or   [phone]

Anchor Glass Cont. Corp., One Anchor Plaza, 4343 Anchor Plaza
Parkway, Tampa, FL 33634    [phone]    Golden Harvest jars

Glashaus Inc., 415 West Golf Road, Suite 13, Arlington Heights,
IL, 60005
     [phone]       Distributes Weck Products


Other Sources:

Lemra Products, 4331 North Dixie Highway, Suite 4, Boca Raton, FL
33431
     [phone]  Makes the Squeezo juicer/press

NASCO, 901 Janesville Ave., P.O.Box 901, Fort Atkinson, WI,
53538-0901
     [phone]     [phone]    Home Ec.supplies

Robert Bosch Corp., Household Products Div. 2800 S. 25th Ave.,
Broadview, IL 60153
     [phone]  Electric juicer/press

Prepared by Mary A. Keith, Foods and Nutrition, August, 1991
Revised by  Susan Brewer, Foods and Nutrition Specialist
EHE-703
----

A.6  [What about zinc rings, rubber sealed jars, and other great, but
antique, canning equipment?]
----
Selecting Canning Jars and Lids

If you are going to invest the time, the produce, your own energy
and your electrical energy in home canning, then it should be
important to you to select the best containers for your food. Here
are some pointers to guide you, or maybe to give you some answers
about why the jars you have used in the past broke in the canner or
did not seal.

The best jars to use are standard canning jars.  There are several
brands on the market.  They are all suitable. However, as in any
mass-produced product, you may find a few mistakes.  Be sure to
check the rims, or sealing surfaces. Run your fingertip lightly
around the circle to check for any chips or bumps. These will
prevent the canning lid from sealing properly.  Also look to see
that the rim is circular. Occasionally a jar will stick momentarily
in the mold and an oval jar is the result. These curiosities can
not be used.

While the jars themselves will last for decades, until they are
broken,  their safe life for canning is much shorter.  With the
repeated heating and cooling of canning, the glass gradually
becomes more brittle.  Eventually, it becomes very sensitive to
even light shocks.  Older jars are often the ones that break in the
canner for no obvious reason.  Glass manufacturers generally say
that a canning jar will have a reliable life of 12 to 13 years.
After that their tendency to break increases, and they should be
replaced.  This includes most of the blue glass jars.  [N.B: In
addition to being beautiful, some of those colored glass canning
jars are valuable collectors' items.]

Many of the older jars were made for use with rubber rings and zinc
lids.  In this style of lid, the seal was not on the rim of the jar
mouth but on the shoulder, below the threads. Therefore, the
smoothness of the rim was not important.  Many of these jars have
rough rims, and rims of uneven thickness.  These jars will not seal
reliably with today's lids.  They can be used to store grains and
pasta, but are not a good choice for canning.  (N.B: Zinc lids are
an especially bad idea for processing pickles, since zinc is
reactive in high salt and acid.--LEB)

Mayonnaise jars or "one-trip" commercial jars are considered by
many canners to be the inexpensive alternative to buying canning
jars.  For some foods that is true.  Mayonnaise jars may be safely
used for canning foods in a boiling water bath canner.  They are
generally reliable and will not break at that temperature.  (N.B:
this subject is controversial.  Many people in r.f.p  will dis-
agree with the above statement.--LEB)
However, they should never be used in a pressure canner.  The glass
sides are slightly thinner than in a standard canning jar.  When
there is a pressure difference between the inside of the jar and
its environment they may explode.  This occurs when the canner cools
while the contents of the jar are often still boiling.  In
addition, the rims of mayonnaise jars are often thinner than those
of canning jars.   This means that there is less space for the jar
lid to properly seal onto.  It is very important that the lid be
carefully adjusted onto the jar and be exactly centered. Otherwise
it may not seal.

Prepared by Mary Keith, June, 1991
Revised by M. Susan Brewer, June, 1992
----

B. DEHYDRATORS

B.1  [Where can I find suppliers of premade dehydrators?]

Most of this information was complied by Anne Louise Gockel <alg@
cs.cornell.edu>.  I thank her from the bottom of my heart.
Prices are dated.

From Sept/Oct 1992 Organic Gardening:

The Big-1 [set]:
    20 trays, $200 ppd/ 10 trays $170 ppd/ 5 trays $130 ppd
    Vita Mix/ 8615 Usher Rd/ Cleveland, OH 44138
    800-848-2649

Harvest Maid $100 ppd (4 trays, can add 8 more)
    Gardener's Supply Co/ 128 Intervale Rd/ Burlington, VT 05401
    802-863-1700
Note from Anne Louise Gockel:  when I bought my dehydrator, Harvest Maid
had two products, one was larger and expanded to up to ?30? trays, and the
other was smaller; this sounds like the product that was originally the
smaller version.  I found that liquid from foods drips down into the heat-
ing and fan area; I ruined one fan with excess juice that gummed it up.
Total cost about $25 to replace the fan (mail ordered the fan from a repair
shop).  Running the machine without the fan caused something else to burn
out (another $30) though so be careful!

Nutri-Flow $265 ppd with 6 large rectangular trays and you can add up to 6
    more; fan and heater mounted in the back and air flows horizontal-
    ly; no need to rotate trays.
    Gardener's Supply Co/ 128 Intervale Rd/ Burlington, VT 05401
    802-863-1700
For various reasons, I suspect that the horizontal air flow is a better
design.  Some sources suggest that you get less "flavors mixing" with a
horizontal flow too.

Dehydrator Companies:

American Harvest/ 4064 Peavey Road/ PO Box 159/ Chaska, Minnesota 55318
    1-800-288-4545 and [phone]
Thanks to [e-mail] (Joshua H Moffi)

Dehydration Technology/ PO Box 864/ Coupeville WA 98239

Excalibur/ 6083 Power Inn Rd/ Sacramento CA 95824

Harvest Maid/ Alternative Pioneering Systems/ 7900 Computer Ave South/
Minneapolis, MN 55435
    800-624-2945
From ALG: I'm pretty sure this address is no longer any good

Sun Pantry Enterprises/ 16182 Gothard St, Unit N/ Huntington Beach, CA
92647
    714-848-1686


B.2  [Where can I find plans for homemade dehydrators?]

These plans were painstakingly complied by Anne Louise Gockel <alg@cs.
cornell.edu>.  Prices are included, but are probably dated.  The last
several items are posts from people in rec.food.preserving and misc.
consumers.frugal-living.

--Tabletop Dehydrator:
A Make it yourself dryer that is set on a table.  Described in full in
Circular #855 "How to Build a Portable Electric Food Dehydrator" by Dale E.
Kirk, Agricultural Engineer, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon.

Directions for building this dryer are also contained in USDA H&G Bulletin
217, "Drying Foods at Home", 1977.  [From ALG:  This dryer offers about
8.5 feet of tray surface and handles about 18 lbs, of fruit or vegetables.
Basically it is a plywood box that holds 5 screen trays above the heat
source, which is nine 75 watt light bulbs.  The heat is dispersed by a
shield and forced upward through the trays of food by an 8" household fan.]

--Solar Dehydrator Plans:
"Solar Energized Food Dehydrator" $15.00.  Order from:  Solar Survival/
Cherry Hill Rd/ Harrisville, NH 03450

"How to Build a Solar Food Dryer" $3.00.  Order from:  Benson Institute
B-49/ Brigham Young University/ Provo UT 84602

"Drying Food", from Blair and Ketchum's Country Journal.  Sept 1981

"Build PM's Solar Food Dryer", from Popular Mechanics, Jan 1979

"A Build-It Incubator/Dryer", from Organic Gardening, July 1979

"Solar Dehydrator", from Popular Science, Oct 1976
(From ALG: I have this article; it's just a quick one-page description and
a single illustration)

--Electric Dehydrator Plans:
"How to Build a Portable Electric Food Dehydrator" (EC #855, $0.75)
Agricultural Communications Publications Orders/ Administration Building
#422/ Oregon State University/ Corvallis, Oregon 97331-2119.  Reprinted
in Horticulture, August 1980.  (From ALG: I think this is the set of plans
I have; they are fairly complete and look like a good set of plans.  They
could be made by someone with reasonable handyman skills.  It think it re-
quires the cook to manually inspect the temperature and adjust the open-
ings to adjust the temp.)

"Step By Step to a Food Dehydrator", by David Ashe. Better Homes and
Gardens. July 1977

"Super Dehydrator Does Much More", by J Stephens. Organic Gardening and
Farming, Aug 1977

"Build Your Own Fruit and Vegetable Dryer", by R. S. Hedin. Popular Mech-
anics, May 1976.  (From ALG: I have this article; this is a serious dehy-
drator.  Uses two 600-watt heaters to maintain a temperature of about 120
degrees F and will dry a load in about 12 hours; twelve screens provide a
drying area of 14.5 square feet.  The drying cabinet is made of 3/8" par-
ticle board.  There's a blower and an "air safety switch" and this is one
*serious* project.)

--Dryer Plans from University Extension Services:
1. Agricultural Engineering Extension/ 325 Riley-Robb Hall (ALG:/* hmmm,
does Riley Robb still exist?)/ Cornell University/ Ithaca NY 14853.
607-256-2280 /* DEFINITELY a bad phone number!!!!

Plan No 6252: $2.00: This "Cassette Fruit Drier" is a portable cabinet
18"x24"x21" and with a heater and fan to dry four aluminum screen trays
of fruit.  Isometric drawing is shown with door and hasp removed.  Notes
specify 750 to 1500 watt heater with adjustable thermostat and independ-
ent operation of fan.  1 sheet.

Plan No 6244. $2.00:  Plan shows a "Solar Fruit Drier" which is tilted box
4'x4'x1' on legs with slots for natural ventilation.  Four trays, 2" deep
inside the black box, a vinyl or polyethylene box cover and joint details
are shown. 2 sheets.

Plan No 6202. $3.00: This "Fruit Drier" has two electrical core resistance
heaters, an 80 cfm fan and five slide-out trays in a 2' cubicle plywood
box.  Shown are a general view, sections, back view with removable panel
to plenum chamber and wiring diagrams.  A bill of materials and suggested
fruit drying procedure is included.  4 sheets.

2. I have this last one and it's "developed by the fruit substation,
Clarksville, and the Agricultural Engineering Dept, University of Arkan-
sas, Plan no 731001."  This model has a thermostat that will turn the
heaters on and off.  It looks pretty sophisticated.  However I don't think
it has a temperature control, just an "on/off" control.  It's 4 blueprint
sheets of drawings and notes.

3. Two proud innovators in rec.food.preserving...
: Sorry, I have no plans, but my husband and I built a good dehydrator
: years ago. We solved the problem of relatively inexpensive trays by
: having them fabricated at a glass shop around the corner. They used
: (not sure what it is called by pros) screen frame stock and screen
: fabric. These were built in the size that we needed, and were stable
: enough to support the drying foods. As I recall, they were quite
: inexpensive, could have been even more so if we had bought the stock
: and done the work ourselves. Let me know if you use this suggestion and
: how it works for you.
: Betty Kohler (using my son's account)

From: Paul Opitz <[e-mail]>
After building a plywood dehydrator cabinet (2 x 2 x 4 feet!), I, too,
had a problem finding suitable trays that didn't cost the big bucks.
Found a good solution: fluorescent light box diffusers. You can find
these at lighting supply stores or at large building supplies (I found
'em at Home Depot). These have a 1/2-inch grid, are plastic (but are ok
for relatively high temperature), come  2 x 4 foot 'slats', and are easy
to cut to size. Also, I've noticed absolutely no taste (like you can get
from some metal screens) and you can just toss 'em in the dishwasher to
clean.

For smaller foods (peas, corn, ...) I place crochet 'cloth' (plastic
sheets about 10 x 14 inches with tiny holes) I got at Cloth World over
the main trays. For liquids I use a teflon-coated cookie sheet.  I had
one problem when I overloaded the tray and it broke (was spanning 2 feet
with only end supports and put 4 lbs of beef for jerky on the tray). I
added a center support to the dehydrator, and have had no problems since.

As to dehydrator design, I just made a cube out of plywood. The pieces
are screwed into 2x2s (take the plywood away and it would look like a
2 x 2 x 4-foot cube wireframe made out of 2x2s). Added a hot plate I got
for $10 at Incredible Universe and a surplus 6-inch computer fan I had
already. Temperature control is achieved using a modified electronic
aquarium thermostat (range of 90 - 160 degrees).

Several holes drilled at top and bottom sides for some air exchange, and
presto! The entire thing cost about $80 (mostly for the plywood) and can
simultaneously dehydrate a LOT of food.

I've made black bean soup, jerky, spaghetti sauce, vegetable soup, huevos
rancheros casserol, fruit juice leather, fruit pemmican... All turned out
much better than the freeze-dried stuff at the stores.

And finally, an amazing idea from a couple on misc.consumers.frugal-living.

From: John and/or Mari Morgan <[e-mail]>
We had great fun with what we called "the rolling fruit dryer" - my 1981
Chevette hatchback. In the summer, the temp would get over 120F inside if
it was sitting in the sun.  So I put the back seat down, spread fruit on
trays, and set it in the hatch section.  I covered it with cheesecloth to
keep flies off and left one window about 1/2" open to let some air cir-
culate.  Fruit dried in one day, parked in the sun.  Made the car smell
nice too!  Try it next summer (or if you live in a sunny climate) if you
have a hatchback car.

C. SMOKERS

C.1  [Where can I find plans for a homemade smoker?]

THE IDEAL SMOKER: from Brian Bigler <[e-mail]>...
I got introduced to smokers the same way most people do, but as a Fish-
eries Scientist with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, I enjoy a
nearly inexhaustable supply of salmon and other fish to experiment.  The
small smokers are okay, but the one I built is a lot more versatile.
Soon after I got introduced to smokers, I built my own from plywood.  My
present smoker is about two feet on each side, and about five feet tall.
I have three racks scrounged from where I could find them, and a single-
burner hot plate I got from Sears as a heat source.  I fill a 1-pound
coffee can with smoker chips intended for charcoal barbeques.  The height
of my smoker allows for smoking cheeses on the top rack where it's cool-
est, and warmer smoking closer to the heat on the lower racks.  The hot-
plate has to be set carefully, to a point where there's just enough heat
to smolder the chips within 5-8 minutes.  I plug in the hotplate just long
enough to see smoke wisping from the seams, then unplug the cord and allow
the chips to smolder on their own.  It takes two loads of chips for each
load of fish. BE CERTAIN TO PUT YOUR SMOKER AWAY FROM YOUR HOME!

Other smoker blueprint sources. These were all compiled by Anna Louise
Gockel.

"Smoking Fish at Home" #2669, $0.25
"Smoked Shark and Shark Jerky" #21121 $0.25
Sea Grant MAP Extension/ University of California/ Davis, CA 95616

"Fishery Facts 5, Sportsman's Guide to Handling, Smoking and Preserving
Coho Salmon"
US Dept of the Interior/ US Fish and Wildlife Service/ Bureau of Commer-
cial Fisheries/ Washington, DC 20240

"Home Smoking of Fish" #B-78865-S $1.00
"Smoke Your Own Poultry" #A 2732 $1.00
Agricultural Bulletin Room #245/ 30 North Murray/ Madison, WI 53715 (zip
code?)

(from ALG: I've looked through a copy of the following.  It includes
making a smoker out of an old discarded fridge:

TITLE:  The easy art of smoking food / Chris Dubbs and Dave Heberle; ill.
by Jay Marcinowski; photos. by Gary Thomas Sutto. Pub. New York : Win-
chester Press, 1977.  SUBJECTS:  Smoke meat. Smoked fish.  DESCRIPTION:
v, 180 p.  : ill. ; 23 cm.  NOTES:  Includes index.

==================================================================
-----------------------III. Tips 'N Tricks------------------------
==================================================================

This section was created as a compendium of tips and tricks.  In many
cases, I have not seen any of these tricks in the book and pamphets that
I have.  They can help you get around specific problems, or are easy ways
to do what you have to do.
______
______
From: Diana Hamilton <[e-mail]>
The Fruit Fly Trap

Given that a lot of people here might be working with fresh fruit, here's
an excellent way to keep the kitchen fruit fly population down. I learned
this from my brother, who works in a research lab where escaped fruit
flies are always a problem.

Materials: 1 glass jar; 1 piece of paper and a piece of tape, or a plastic
baggie and a rubber band; a little *cider* vinegar (not white vinegar), or
wine or beer; a couple of drops liquid soap or detergent.

Procedure: Tape the paper together to make a funnel shape that will rest
inside the mouth of the jar, but have a fairly broad opening. Or, tear a
hole in the corner of a baggie, put it in the jar as a funnel, and secure
it around the rim using a rubber band. Put cider vinegar (or wine or beer)
in the bottom of the jar (1/4 inch or 0.5 cm or so). Add a couple of drops
of detergent to the vingar. Place the paper funnel on the jar.  Set on the
kitchen counter near the fruit.

How it works: Flies are attracted to the cider vinegar, which they inter-
pret as decaying fruit. They go into the jar (the funnel makes entry easier
than exit) and either fall onto or land on the surface of the liquid.  The
detergent decreases the normal surface tension, so they sink and drown.
Easy and cheap!

We tested this at our parents' house when the apple crop came in.  A single
trap caught >100 flies in 2 days.

Acknowledgement: Thanks to [e-mail] who suggested the
baggie method last time I posted this, and to others who suggested beer/
wine.  [Little bits of overripe fruit and cheap sherry are also irresist-
able to fruit flies.--LEB].
_______
From: Kate Gregory <[e-mail]>
Wax paper weight

Crumple up a square of wax paper, add the wax paper ball to the top of
jars of pickled peppers, canned cherries, etc. to keep the food down in
the brine.  Seal with two piece lids, can process with wax paper ball in
waterbath.
_______
From: Matt Albright <[e-mail]>
Faster way to chop citrus peels for marmalade

I usually use a vegetable peeler to strip off the zest and then run it
through the food processor. Just a few pulses are necessary. I do not use
the white part in my marmalade because it makes it too bitter and it takes
longer to set (my observation).
______
From: David Schwoegler <[e-mail]>
Tips and Tricks for Drying Foods in Oven

Test the temperature with an instant-read thermometer lying on the middle
oven rack with the thermostat at the lowest setting and watch the reading.
You shouldn't damage the plastic cover on the thermometer at temperatures
below 200F.

Some oven thermostats can maintain 140F using the heating element or burner;
many can't. But don't despair; there's another way. Years ago small metal
"play" ovens were manufactured as toys. The heat source was an electric light
bulb, which baked small cakes and too often burned the young owners. You can
apply the same principal in your gas or electric oven by substituting an
larger electric bulb for the 25W appliance bulb that's already in there.
Fortunately for this purpose, bulbs are rated by their heat output in Watts,
not by their light output in lumens.

Take out the 25W. Turn on the oven light and begin with a 40W, using the
thermometer to monitor the heat gain. Move to larger sizes until you reach
the right sized bulb that gives the temperature you want when it is on
continuously. BE SURE TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL BULB BEFORE USING THE OVEN
FOR BAKING.

Leaving the door ajar increases the air flow, but also alters the heat-
loss characteristics. This is a slow process, but it can work if you are
willing to experiment.
________
From: Leslie Basel <[e-mail]>
Using cheesecloth to skim pickle brine

Skimming pickle brine is one of the most tedious tasks around, because you
usually have to do it once per day, you should skim it nearly completely,
and you shouldn't get rid of too much brine in the process.  One trick that
I found helpful is to make a cheesecloth handle.  You set up your crock in
the usual way, with pickles, herbs, and brine, then you place two large
pieces of fine cheesecloth over your pickles.  Make sure that you have
enough cheesecloth that will overhang your crock by a foot or so.  After
the cheesecloth, you put on your plate and your weight.  When it comes
time to skim your pickles, take out the weight and the plate, then grab
your cheesecloth by the ends and make a bag.  Gently lift the bag up out of
the brine.  Nearly all of the scum should be trapped in the cheesecloth.
The cheesecloth can be carefully washed and airdried for reuse; a rotation
of three sets works well.
_____
from an unknown poster, the chile-heads mailing list...
Keeping outside fermenting items a secret from the neighbors

I learned to love -and make- kim chee while attending college in Hawaii.
I encountered the same odor problem and was forced to come up with a sol-
ution or get into a shooting war with the neighbors.  Obviously, tightly
closing the fermentation container is a recipe for disaster.  I actually
just cover my crocks with an unbleached muslin stretched over the top.
(Five gallon churns are the best "crocks" I have found.)  However, I deal
with the odor problem by putting six inches of charcoal in the bottom of
a plastic trash can and setting the crocks on it.  The charcoal I use is
provided by a friend at the Jack Daniels distillery, but any "raw" or ac-
tivated charcoal will work.  Bagged charcoal briquets, even when crushed,
are not really a good option, though.  I use a large trash can and can
actually get three crocks in at once without crowding.  I then put several
layers of burlap on top of the covered crocks. (I used laundered peanut
bags, but feed sacks would work as well.)  Finally, I put the lid on the
trash can.  The lids for these cans fit fairly tight, but will allow for
the equalization of pressure.  You can still smell the kim chee working,
but you must get very close to the trash can and sniff hard.
_________
From Michael Stallcup
Using Ascorbic Acid.

Citation from "Drying Fruit" pamphlet by Pat Kendall, Colorado State
University Cooperative Extension foods and nutrition specialist and
professor, food science and human nutrition; Lesta Allen, retired
consumer and family education agent, Tri River Area Cooperative
Extension. 8/94. ⌐Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. 1994.

"Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is an antioxidant that keeps fruit from
darkening. Pure crystals usually are available at drug stores. Prepare
a solution of 1 to 2-1/2 teaspoons of pure ascorbic acid crystals to 1
cup cold water. Vitamin C tablets can be crushed and used (six 500 milli-
gram tablets equal 1 teaspoon ascorbic acid). One cup treats about 5
quarts of cut fruit. Dip peeled and cut fruit directly in ascorbic acid
solution. Soak for a few minutes, remove with a slotted spoon, drain well
and dehydrate. Commercial antioxidant mixtures are not as effective as
ascorbic acid but are more readily available in grocery stores.  Follow
directions on the container for "fresh cut fruit."
________
From: Jean P Nance <[e-mail]>
Sealing Jam w/ Paraffin

Using paraffin sealing jam: Get a moderately large can, maybe large fruit
juice.  Put the paraffin in it.  Put it in a pan of water and heat the
water until the paraffin melts.  Never take your eyes off it, spilling can
cause a fire.  Keep it warm until the jam is poured into hot sterilized
jars.  If you use jars with an overhang, be careful, the jam may shrink a
bit, so you don't want your paraffin cap to be caught on the overhand.
Pour paraffin carefully on top of each jar of jam.  Sometimes it helps to
pour one layer, then another in a few minutes.  It is best to have caps
for the jars to prevent mice, ants, etc. getting at the paraffin.  Put
away, preferably in a cool dark place.  Check regularly.  If you see mold
under the paraffin, or jam oozing up above the paraffin, throw away moldy
jam, but oozing jam can be refrigerated for immediate use.  Or freeze if
there is more than you can use soon.  That's the way we did it for many
years.  Takes some fussing but it is economical, and you can use any kind
of jars.
______
From: Jean P. Nance <[e-mail]>
How to reach the jelling stage/The Fork Test

There are a couple of other tests for "jelling". One is "when it sheets
from a spoon", but I have found this confusing and sometimes deceptive.
My favorite is "when it closes the tines of a fork". I have found that
it really should be a silver plate fork, not stainless steel. Dip the
fork in, bring it out and observe. If the mixture stays in a sheet
between some of the tines, the jam is pretty near done. I usually cook
it a few more minutes just to be sure. At times my jam is a little
stiffer than some people would like, but better that than runny.
Experiment to see how much "closing" means jam is at the stage you like.
______
From Kathy Meade <[e-mail]>
Salvaging Wood Chips for smoking foods

I never buy wood chips.  We have an apple tree in our backyard and use
the prunings from that.  In addition we use the prunings from a neighbor's
grapevine.  My mother has a crab apple that needs suckers cut out.  If you
look around there should be plenty of free smoking hard wood.  It is just
another way of recyling and my neighbors love that I am willing to hall
their "trash" away.  My sons cut the wood into pieces, we dry it in the
sun, and then pack it in plastic buckets that we keep by the smoker until
they are needed.  Just don't use soft woods such as pine.  Fruit woods
are the best, but hickory and oak are good too.
______
(end of part 4)



Part 5 of 6
Version 2.7
Spoilage, especially Botulism.

===================================================================
-----------------IV. Spoilage, Especially Botulism----------------
===================================================================

IV.1  [Okay, I've got some bad jars.  What's growing in them?  How
can I dispose of them?]

----
HOME CANNED FOOD SPOILAGE--WHAT WENT WRONG??

   1. Fresh food was decayed, unwashed, unpeeled or untrimmed.
This results in a high microbial load.  A larger than normal
number of microorganisms can take a longer processing time for
complete sterilization than is usually recommended.

   2. Food packed too tightly in jars.  Temperature in the
geometric center of the jar was not high enough long enough to
result in complete sterilization of the food.  Pack food loosely,
prepare according to USDA Guidelines (1/2 inch slices, halves,
etc.) then use the recommended time, pressure, temperature.

   3. Jars became unsterile soon after being filled.  If lids are
not placed on jars and processing is not started immediately
after jars are filled, microorganisms may start to grow and reach
very high levels prior to processing.

   4. Inaccurate heat-processing time was used; this may occur if
old recommendations are used (food is underprocessed) or if the
timing was interrupted (power failure, pressure fluctuation,
etc.)

   5. Food was not processed at the correct temperature:
      A. Pressure Canner (240 F,115 C).
      1. Failed to test dial gauge yearly.
      2. Failed to exhaust canner 10 min with full steam flow.
      3. Failed to make an adjustment for elevation (11 PSIG
     versus 10 PSIG in Illinois due to average 1000 above sea
     level altitude)
      4. Failed to keep pressure accurate (high enough).

      B. Boiling Water Bath Canner
      1. Water was not covering jar tops by 1" or more.
      2. Water was not maintained at a rolling boil.
      3. Processing time was too short.
      4. Failed to make an adjustment for altitude (addition of 2
     minutes for every 1000 ft above sea level).

   6. Use of Open Kettle Canning, Microwave Canning, or Oven
Canning Methods.  These methods do not get the canned food hot
enough long enough to destroy microorganisms so the food may
spoil, may contain dangerous microorganisms and their toxins, or
both.

   7. Improper cooling of jars after processing:

      A. Failure to remove jars from canner at the end of
processing time or when gauge reads "0".  As jars cool, they may
suck water (containing microbes or spores) back into the food.

      B. Failure to properly cool jars.  Very slow or very rapid
cooling may interfere with formation of a seal.

   8. Use of paraffin to seal jelly jars.  Paraffin is no longer
recommended for sealing jams, jellies or preserves.  Mold, which
is the most common spoiler of sweet spreads, can send "roots" down
along the edge of the paraffin and produce toxic substances into
the spread.

   9. Improper storage of home-canned foods:

      A. Home canned foods which are exposed to temperatures in
excess of 95 degrees F may spoil.  Sterilization recommendations
used for home canning do not necessarily kill some of the
"thermophiles" or heat loving microorganisms.  These organisms
tolerate high temperatures and will grow at high temperatures.
If they are still present, they may grow and spoil the food, or
alter the food so that other microorganisms can grow.

      B. Home canned foods which are stored in the sunlight may
get very hot inside--the light goes in, changes to heat as it is
absorbed by the food, allows the air in the headspace to expand
breaking open the seal allowing microorganisms to come in.

      C. Keeping very acid foods (pickled or fermented products,
some juices) for a long period of time may give the food acid
time to eat away at and deteriorate the lid resulting in pinholes
which allow microorganisms to get into the jar.  Discard any home
canned food with damaged or flaking metal on the lid.

      D. Lids on home canned foods stored in a damp place may
rust through allowing microbes to get into the food.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992

EHE-669
----
UNSEALED JARS AND SPOILED FOOD--WHAT TO DO

  Occasionally even the most careful home canner has jars which
become unsealed during storage resulting in food spoilage.
Exposure to high temperatures or water during storage may cause
the seals to break open or the lids to rust through allowing
microorganisms access to the food inside.  Any time a jar of
home-canned food looks suspicious, treat it as though it were
spoiled.  Low-acid home-canned foods such as vegetables, meat,
poultry and seafood are a special problem because of their
association with botulism, so spoiled in these food categories
should be detoxified before they are disposed of.

1.   Do not taste food from an unsealed jar or any food which
     appears to be spoiled.  Presence of black discoloration,
     gas, swelling of the lid, unnatural odors, spurting liquid
     and mold growth (blue, white, black or green) indicate
     spoilage.

2.   Spoiled, low-acid foods (including tomatoes) may have no
     evidence of spoilage, so if they are suspect:

       A.      Swollen but still sealed jars can be put in the
           garbage (in a heavy bag) or buried.

       B.      Unsealed jars should be detoxified.

3.     Detoxification:

       A.      Place containers and lids on their sides in a
           large pot (8 qt or more).

       B.      Wash hands well.

       C.      Cover containers with water to at least 1" over
           them.

       D.      Put lid on pot and bring to a boil.

       E.      Boil 30 minutes.

       F.      Cool and discard (in trash bag or bury).

       G.      Scrub all counters, containers, equipment (can
           opener), clothing and  hands that may have had
           contact with the food.  Throw away sponges, wash
           cloths, etc. used in the clean-up.

ALTERNATE DETOXIFICATION METHODS:

Cover jar and food with chlorine bleach.  Let stand 24 hours.
Dispose of as above.

Cover jar and food with a strong lye solution and let stand 24
hours.  Dispose of as above.

NOTE: Do not mix chlorine bleach and lye (sodium hydroxide)
together.

Prepared by Susan Brewer/Foods and Nutrition Specialist/Revised, 1992

EHE-680
----

IV.2  [Botulism.  What is it?]

The word from the FDA, courtesy of Henry Hilbreath, aka souris..

Food and Drug Administration Foodborne Pathogenic
Microorganisms and Natural Toxins 1992

     1. Name of the organism: Clostridium botulinum
       Clostridium botulinum is an anaerobic, Gram-positive, spore-
forming rod that produces a potent neurotoxin. The spores are heat-
resistant and can survive in foods that are incorrectly or minimally
processed. Seven types (A, B, C, D, E, F and G) of botulism are
recognized, based on the antigenic specificity of the toxin produced
by each strain.  Types  A, B, E and F cause human botulism.  Types C
and D cause most cases of botulism in animals. Animals most commonly
affected are wild fowl and poultry, cattle, horses and some species
of fish.  Although type G has been isolated from soil in Argentina,
no outbreaks involving it have been recognized.
       Foodborne botulism (as distinct from wound botulism and infant
botulism) is a severe type of food poisoning caused by the ingestion of
foods containing the potent neurotoxin formed during growth of the
organism. The toxin is heat labile and can be destroyed if heated at
80 C for 10 minutes or longer. The incidence of the disease is low, but
the disease is of considerable concern because of its high mortality
rate if not treated immediately and properly.  Most of the 10 to 30
outbreaks that are reported annually in the United States are assoc-
iated with inadequately processed, home-canned foods, but occasionally
commercially produced foods have been involved in outbreaks. Sausages,
meat products, canned vegetables and seafood products have been the most
frequent vehicles for human botulism.
       The organism and its spores are widely distributed in nature.
They occur in both cultivated  and forest soils, bottom sediments of
streams, lakes, and coastal waters, and in the intestinal tracts of
fish and mammals, and in the gills and viscera of crabs and other
shellfish.

    2. Name of the Disease:
       Four types of botulism are recognized: foodborne, infant, wound,
and a form of botulism whose classification is as yet undetermined.
Certain foods have been reported as sources of spores in cases of infant
botulism and the undetermined category; wound botulism is not related to
foods.
       Foodborne botulism is the name of the disease (actually a food-
borne intoxication) caused by the consumption of foods containing the
neurotoxin produced by C. botulinum.
       Infant botulism, first recognized in 1976, affects infants under
12 months of age. This type of botulism is thought to be caused by the
ingestion of C. botulinum spores which colonize and produce toxin in the
intestinal tract of infants (toxico infectious botulism).  Honey is the
only implicated food source for C. botulinum spores. The number of con-
firmed infant botulism cases has increased significantly as a result of
greater awareness by health officials since its recognition in 1976.
It is now internationally recognized, with cases being reported in more
countries.
       Wound botulism is the rarest form of botulism. The illness
results when C. botulinum by itself or with other microorganisms
infects a wound and produces toxins which reach other parts of the
body via the blood stream. Foods are not involved in this type of botulism.
       Undetermined category of botulism involves adult cases in which
a specific food or wound source cannot be identified. It has been sug-
gested that some cases of botulism assigned to this category might result
from intestinal colonization in adults, with in vivo production of toxin.
Reports in the medical literature suggest the existence of a form of
botulism similar to infant botulism, but occurring in adults.  In these
cases, the patients had surgical alterations of the gastrointestinal
tract and/or antibiotic therapy. It is proposed that these procedures
may have altered the normal gut flora and allowed C. botulinum to
colonize the intestinal tract.

    3. Nature of the Disease:
       Infective dose - a very small amount (a few nanograms) of toxin
can cause illness.
       Onset of symptoms in foodborne botulism is usually 18 to 36
hours after ingestion of the food containing the toxin, although cases
have varied from 4 hours to 8 days. Early signs of intoxication consist
of marked lassitude, weakness and vertigo, usually followed by double
vision and progressive difficulty in speaking and swallowing. Difficulty
in breathing, weakness of other muscles, abdominal distention, and
constipation may also be common symptoms.
       Clinical symptoms of infant botulism consist of constipation that
occurs after a period of normal development. This is followed by poor
feeding, lethargy, weakness, pooled oral secretions, and wail or altered
cry.  Loss of head control is striking.  Recommended treatment is pri-
marily supportive care.  Antimicrobial therapy is not recommended. Infant
botulism is diagnosed by demonstrating botulinal toxins and the organism
in the infants' stools.

    4. Diagnosis of Human Illness:
       Although botulism can be diagnosed by clinical symptoms alone,
differentiation from other diseases may be difficult. The most direct
and effective way to confirm the clinical diagnosis of botulism in the
laboratory is to demonstrate the presence of toxin in the serum or feces
of the patient or in the food which the patient consumed. Currently, the
most sensitive and widely used method for detecting toxin is the mouse
neutralization test. This test takes 48 hours. Culturing of specimens
takes 5-7 days.

    5. Associated Foods:
       The types of foods involved in botulism vary according to food
preservation and eating habits in different regions. Any food that is
conducive to outgrowth and toxin production, that when processed allows
spore survival, and is not subsequently heated before consumption can
be associated with botulism. Almost any type of food that is not very
acidic (pH above 4.6) can support growth and toxin production by C.
botulinum.  Botulinal toxin has been demonstrated in a considerable
variety of foods, such as canned corn, peppers, green beans, soups,
beets, asparagus, mushrooms, ripe olives, spinach, tuna fish, chicken
and chicken livers and liver pate, and luncheon meats, ham, sausage,
stuffed eggplant, lobster, and smoked and salted fish.

    6. Frequency:
       The incidence of the disease is low, but the mortality rate is
high if not treated immediately and properly. There are generally be-
tween 10 to 30 outbreaks a year in the United States.  Some cases of
botulism may go undiagnosed because symptoms are transient or mild, or
misdiagnosed as Guillain-Barre syndrome.

    7. The Usual Course of Disease and Complications:
       Botulinum toxin causes flaccid paralysis by blocking motor nerve
terminals at the myoneural junction. The flaccid paralysis progresses
symmetrically downward, usually starting with the eyes and face, to the
throat, chest and extremities. When the diaphragm and chest muscles become
fully involved, respiration is inhibited and death from asphyxia results.
Recommended treatment for foodborne botulism includes early administration
of botulinal antitoxin (available from CDC) and intensive supportive care
(including mechanical breathing assistance).

    8. Target Populations:
       All people are believed to be susceptible to the foodborne
intoxication.

    9. Food Analysis
       Since botulism is foodborne and results from ingestion of the
toxin of C. botulinum, determination of the source of an outbreak is
based on detection and identification of toxin in the food involved.
The most widely accepted method is the injection of extracts of the
food into passively immunized mice (mouse neutralization test). The
test takes 48 hours.  This analysis is followed by culturing all suspect
food in an enrichment medium for the detection and isolation of the
causative organism. This test takes 7 days.

   10. Recent Outbreaks:
       In the last 10 years, two separate outbreaks of botulism have
occurred involving commercially canned salmon.  Restaurant foods such
as sauteed onions, chopped bottled garlic, potato salad made from baked
potatoes and baked potatoes themselves have been responsible for a
number of outbreaks. [Root crops, pattern?--LEB]  Also, smoked fish,
both hot and cold-smoke (e.g., Kapchunka) have caused outbreaks of type
E botulism.
       In October and November, 1987, 8 cases of type E botulism occur-
red, 2 in New York City and 6 in Israel.  All 8 patients had consumed
Kapchunka, an uneviscerated, dry-salted, air-dried, whole whitefish.
The product was made in New York City and some of it was transported by
individuals to Israel. All 8 patients with botulism developed symptoms
within 36 hours of consuming the Kapchunka. One female died, 2 required
breathing assistance, 3 were treated therapeutically with antitoxin, and
3 recovered spontaneously. The Kapchunka involved in this outbreak con-
tained high levels of type E  botulinal toxin despite salt levels that
exceeded those sufficient to inhibit C. botulinum type E outgrowth. One
possible explanation was that the fish contained low salt levels when
air-dried at room temperature, became toxic, and then were re-brined.
Regulations were published to prohibit the processing, distribution and
sale of Kapchunka and Kapchunka-type products in the United States.
       Most recently, a bottled chopped garlic-in-oil mix was respon-
sible for three cases of botulism in Kingston, N.Y. Two men and a woman
were hospitalized with botulism after consuming a chopped garlic-in-oil
mix that had been used in a spread for garlic bread. The bottled chop-
ped garlic relied solely on refrigeration to ensure safety and did not
contain any additional antibotulinal additives or barriers.  The FDA
has ordered companies to stop making the product and to withdraw from
the market any garlic-in-oil mix which does not include microbial inhib-
itors or acidifying agents and does not require refrigeration for safety.
    Since botulism is a life-threatening disease, FDA always init-
iates a Class I recall.
The botulism outbreak associated with salted fish mentioned above is
reported in greater detail in Mortality and Morbidity Weekly Report
(MMWR) 36(49):1987 Dec 18.
A botulism type B outbreak in Italy associated with eggplant in oil is
reported in MMWR 44(2):1995 Jan 20.
An incident of foodborne botulism in Oklahoma is reported in MMWR 44(11):
1995 Mar 24.
Link to recent Clostridium botulinum research.  A Loci index for genome
Clostridium botulinum available from GenBank.
[e-mail]
----

Botulism poisoning is due to ingesting toxin(s) produced by the anerobic
bacterium _Clostridium botulinum_.  There are seven isoforms of botulism
toxins (Types A-G).  Botulism toxins are colorless, odorless, and taste-
less, but highly potent neurotoxins.  To explain the physiology of the
toxin a little farther, you might remember that nerve impulses are elec-
trical signals (charge gradient that runs along the length of an axon),
while the connection between muscles and nerves are mediated by chemical
signals.  The end of an axon releases synaptic vesicles filled with chem-
ical neurotransmitters.  These synaptic vesicles travel a short distance
to the synaptic plate on muscle cells, then bind and release neurotrans-
mitters.  Current research indicates that botulism toxins bind and
cleave several proteins on the outside of synaptic vesicles.  Those
vesicles cannot then bind to the next synaptic plate and unload the
neurotransmitter.  Thus, the connection between nerve and muscle impul-
ses is cut biochemically, at the place where the chemical signal is
delivered.  Muscle control is lost, especially fine facial muscles.

Symptoms of botulism toxin poisoning usually occur within 12-36 hrs after
ingestion.  They include muscle weakness, slurred speech, blurred vision
(all fine muscle movements); followed by an inability to hold up the head.
Death occurs by respiratory failure.

If you recognize these symptoms after trying a canned food, call 911
immediately.  Whoever is able should reclose the jar, wrap well, put in
a ziploc bag, close, bring to the hospital.  Wash your hands carefully
after this procedure!

Treatment for botulism is straightforward.  Often the antisera to the
toxin is given, and the victim is placed on a respirator.  Survival
depends on the amount of toxin ingested, and how quickly the victim got
treatment.  Recovery is quite slow, taking months.  The United States
case/fatality rate has dropped in recent years, but the *number of cases*
in the US increases slightly in proportion to the popularity of home
canning.  Interesting cultural comparison: botulism cases in Europe tend
to come from cured meats, from Japan from salted fish, from the US from
canned vegetables.


IV.3  [I'm confused about when the toxin is produced.  Tell me more
about the bacterium.]

There are three varieties of _C. botulinum_;  2 of these varieties (A,
C) live and grow in soil under anerobic (without oxygen) conditions,
while 1 variety (E) can be found in fresh and saltwater, also under
anerobic conditions.

Under aerobic (oxygen) conditions, all varieties of _C. botulinum_
encyst, producing a spore.  Under normal *aerobic* conditions, both
oxygen and your immune system take care of the few dormant spores that
you meet in everyday life.  NOTE: This is the dormant spore, *not* the
bacterium.  The bacterium is what you could find in a badly processed
can.  However, while the encysted, dormant form does *not* produce the
toxin (only the bacterium does), the _C. botulinum_ spore is much more
resistant to extreme conditions than the bacterium, making it harder to
kill.

Deadly problems can occur in situations where you attempt to preserve
food by creating an *anerobic* state; namely, when you create a vacuum
seal using heat and a 2-piece lid, sometimes when you preserve food in
oil, or when you smoke meat.  In each of those situations, the _C.
botulinum_ spores can develop ("hatch" is a good way of thinking of it)
into the bacterium, which then produce the toxin in your canned goods,
oil, or on your smoked meat.  For this reason, _C. botulinum_ spores
in canned/smoked food must be killed or must be kept dormant.  You, as
a food preserver, using good common sense and a bag of tricks can
accomplish this.


IV.4. [How can I be absolutely, positively sure that those spores are
killed?]

You know, I think someone could make a mint by inventing the "home
botulism test kit" that would work in the same way that a home pregnancy
test kit does.  But we don't, so...

Remember, that despite the bacterium's fearsome reputation, _C. botul-
inum_ is still a microbe, and can be killed using a little basic micro-
biology.  Preserving recipes utilize at least one of these 5 microbio-
logical facts, good recipes often use several.

    1.  _C. botulinum_ bacterium dies at 212 F/ 100 C.
    2.  _C. botulinum_ spores die at 240 F/ 116 C.
    3.  Botulism toxin denatures at 185 F/ 85 C.
**(All temperatures must be maintained for least 15 minutes, and
the heat must be consistent throughout the food, fluid, and jar.)**
    4.  _C. botulinum_ spores cannot hatch in strong acid solutions
of pH 4.6 or below. (Some sources claim pH 4.7.)
    5.  _C. botulinum_ cannot grow, develop, or multiply in food
with a water content of less than 35%.  (Food dehydrators have another
set of toxic pests to worry about.)

Common sense is a first step in the prevention of botulism.

For instance: 1.) _C. botulinum_ bacteria and spores usually live in
soil.  Thus clean foods of soil, dust, grit, etc, using fresh, cold
water.  Change wash water often.  Don't can "drops", fruit that has
dropped to the ground.  Pay special attention to cleaning root crops
(including garlic!), shucking skins or peeling that produce if need be.

2.)  One variety of _C. botulinum_ (E) lives in flat water.  So, you
want to make your brines, etc, with fresh cold water.  Start with fresh,
cold water if you are boiling to sterilize, or perform other operations.

3.)  Botulism spores remain dormant under high acid conditions.  Fruit
is quite high in acid but also contains a lot of sugar, so the fruit
still tastes sweet.  Vinegar is added to vegetables to pickle them.  You
can can foods like this in a boiling waterbath.  However, the concen-
tration of acid (ionic strength) is also very important, so you want to
use vinegars of a known strength (5% or 5 grain); add the recommended
amount of vinegar, citric acid, or ascorbic acid described in your recipe;
can just-ripe fruits.  For safety's sake, you shouldn't cut down the
amount of vinegar in a recipe--take a cue from fruit and add a little bit
of sugar to cut down the extreme acid taste.  Vegetable pickles should be
immersed in the vinegar or brine.  *BTW, finding out that honey is a
source of botulism spores (infant botulism), means that I'm not thrilled
about the idea of substituting honey for sugar, as the Rodale Institute
appears to be.*

4.)  Botulism spores, bacterium, and the toxin are killed by high heat.
However, all the contents of the jar has to get to the target tempera-
ture, no matter the volume, and the temperature should be sustained for
about 15 minutes.  Follow recipes exactly, including jar sizes and
treatment of the jars.  Process at least for the times indicated, but
remember that you have to increase processing time or pressures depend-
ing on your altitude.  (Water boils at lower temperatures the higher
your altitude.)  Note that larger size jars usually require longer pro-
cessing time, because the heat has to penetrate through the jar.

Acid and heat are each used in canning things that are borderline acid,
such as tomatoes, tomato vegetable mixes (like salsa and spaghetti sauce),
vegetable relishes, and other vegetable mixes.  The idea here is that you
can't increase one thing to avoid other procedures.  (You can't increase
acid to avoid pressure canning).

5.)  Botulism cannot grow or develop without water.
In making jams or jellies, enough sugar and pectin is added to form a gel,
depressing the amount of free water available for bacteria to grow.  This
is one of the reasons why special care has to be taken if the jam or
jelly is extremely runny.

Foods preserved in oil (raw garlic, chilis, dried tomatoes) create a
special case.  Oil contains no water, as it is centrifuged out during
processing.  If an item is dependably dry, under 35% water content,
adding it to the oil should not cause problems, as long as your items
are well immersed (1 inch of oil covering).  Dry herbs, seeds and spices,
dried chiles, even sundried tomatoes should not cause problems.  (N.B:
Research from the Australian Extension Service--sundried tomatoes are
more acid than hydrated ones: pH 4.0 for dried, 4.6 for hydrated--LEB)
However, the dehydrated food must be properly dried, conditioned, and
not case hardened (case hardened things are hard and crunchy on the
outside, soft and gooey on the inside).  The jury is out on wet herbs.

If you try to preserve a lot of "wet" items in oil (garlic cloves, chop-
ped onions, ginger root, fresh chiles), you might have a heap of trouble.
Oil doesn't contain much dissolved oxygen, so it is a good anerobic
medium.  Raw garlic, onions, ginger are all rootcrops, and each contain
over 35% water.  Chilis often are added to oil in a non-dried state.
Generally, you want to "pickle", or at least allow your wet, raw item
to take up some 5% vinegar for about 15-20 minutes before putting into
the oil.  Chunky items (i.e. garlic cloves) should be smashed, crushed,
or chopped to get the vinegar into the item.

Simple, but through, sauteing of your chosen flavoring in your oil can
also get rid of spores, since they evaporate free water, and the oil can
be heated to above 240 F.  Yet another idea is to refrigerate your
flavored oils, as bacterial growth is very slow below 40 F/4 C.

In addition, the garlic-in-oil botulism problem began when garlic
pastes in olive oil were introduced in grocery stores.  Many of the
botulism poisonings occurred when these pastes were used in cold pasta,
salads, and salad dressings.  If you are going to be using your
flavored oil for sauteing, stir fry, or deep fat frying you will easily
heat your oil to above any of the target temperatures described above.

Since the toxin is denatured at 185 F/85 C, if you are concerned about
a canned good the usual procedure is as described in the above section
(to hard boil the contents for 15 minutes).  NOTE: This will denature the
botulism toxin.  Other toxins, such as those caused by _Staphococcus_,
will not denature until temps of 240 F/116 C are reached and sustained
for 30 minutes.  As a matter of fact, a hard boil in that case will break
open the bacteria, and more toxin would be released into the food.

(end of part 5)



Part 6 of 6
Version 2.7
Recipe troubleshooting, and a list of Other Resources.
=====================================================================
---------------V. Recipe Cavaets and Troubleshooting----------------
=====================================================================

V.1  [I just got a recipe from rec.food.preserving that I'd like to try.
Is it safe to make?]

To any food preserver, all preservation recipes are interesting.  That
said, not all recipes are safe, or even good to make.  Being on USENET
for a little while, we all know that an unmoderated group (r.f.p is
unmoderated) can and will generate irresponsible posts and undesirable
recipes.  I, for one, can just imagine the alt.syntax.tactical team
coming up with a "botulism in a jar" recipe with an innocent sounding
name ;).  However, you can develop a little healthy discrimination by
looking at the material in this section.

0.  Posters should be responsible for recipes posted, and if you are
trying out a preserving recipe for the first time, extreme caution
should be taken.  Your best source of information on a posted recipe
is the poster's Email address.  If the recipe poster doesn't answer
your questions, that's a bad sign.  I haven't tried most of the recipes
in the FAQ (except the sundried tomato, and the curing olive ones), so
I've included the email addresses for your convenience.

1. Recipes, if they came from a publication (book, pamphet, magazine),
that publication should be stated, preferably at the beginning.  It
would be very wise to note the copyright date, too.  If the recipe is
an old family recipe, it should also be posted, too.  Of course, plenty
of bad recipes get into cookbooks, so....

2. If you altered the recipe, you should post that.  The best thing to
post would be the original recipe, and your changes made to it.

3. Processing times for recipes are assumed to be for sea level.  You
should know your elevation, and you must remember to increase the pro-
cessing time the higher the altitude that you can at.  If are posting
an old family recipe, you really should post your altitude, too.

4. And remember, you can always make a refrigerator batch, by not sealing
and processing, just refrigerating the results.
--------------

V.2  [Most of the recipe measurements posted here are not metric.  Can
you help me?]

Some basic conversions.  Check the rec.food.cooking FAQ for more of them.

*Temperature*.
    F to C = temp-32 X (5/9)           C to F =temp X (9/5)+32

-20 F = -29 C         0 F = -18 C       32 F = 0 C     70 F = 21 C
165 F =  74 C       180 F =  82 C      212 F = 100 C   220 F = 105 C
240 F = 116 C

*Volume Measure*.
    1 qt = 1 liter (L)
    1 cup (C) = 250 mL ; 1/2 pt = 250 mL
    1 pt = 500 mL
    1 Tablespoon (Tbsp) = 15 mL
    1 teaspoon (tsp) = 5 mL
    1 fluid oz = 30 mL

*Weight Measure*.
    1 lb = 454 grams or .454 kg
    1 oz = 28.4 grams

*Length (elevation)*.           *Length (headspace measurement)
    1000 ft = 305 meters            1 inch = 2.5 centimeter


V.3  [Help!  What's a peck?  Uncommon English measurements.]

From: Barb Schaller <[e-mail]>:
3 tsp = 1 Tbsp
2 Tbsp liquid = 1 fluid ounce (fl oz) = 1/8 cup
16 fl oz = 2 cups = 1 pint (look on a carton of whipping cream)

(From Nathan Justus <[e-mail]>:  I burned many things
that I cooked from my British cookbooks until I realized that
Imperial pints are 20 ounces, and not 16.)

32 fl oz = 4 cups = 1 quart (look on a carton of milk)
64 fl oz = 8 cups = 1/2 gallon (look on a bigger carton of milk)
128 fl oz = 16 cups =  one gallon (look on a bleach bottle)

And a couple of measurements especially useful for rec.food.preservers:
Dry measures  (1 1/6 dry = 1 wet), this taken from _Joy of Cooking_
1 peck = 2 gallons = 8 quarts
1 bushel = 4 pecks = 32 quarts
These are really only useful for large quantities of whole fruits and
vegetables.


V.4  [I got some recipes from my grandparents.  Are they safe?  How
can I make them safe?]
----
Evaluating Home Canning Recipes For Safety

What do you do when someone gives you "Aunt Tillie's Special" old
favorite jam recipe?  Or Uncle Willie's barbecue sauce?  Or
Cousin Millie's dill pickle recipe?  In today's heightened
awareness of food safety, how do you tell which are safe and
which are not?  There are no hard and fast rules, or secret
formulas, to help you decide. But there are some priorities you
can use to help you balance the pros and cons. They depend on the
factors that molds, yeasts and bacteria need to grow, and on the
relative hazards that molds, yeast and bacteria present in foods.

Factors Influencing Safety

In food preservation, the growth factors that are important are:

     Sugar - enough sugar will stop the growth of most organisms
     Salt - enough salt will stop the growth of most organisms
     Acid -enough acid will stop the growth of most organisms

       ** Too little sugar, salt or acid will permit spoilage.

     Air - most organisms must have air to grow, BUT the most
      dangerous bacteria in home food preservation,
      Clostridium botulinum, will only grow without air.

     Temperature - most dangerous microorganisms grow best at
      room temperature or a little above. But in preserving
      food, we are interested in killing the organisms and
      their spores, not just in slowing their growth.

The death rate of microorganisms depends on:

     The microorganism - they die at different rates
     The number of cells or spores present initially in the food
      - the more there are, the longer it will take to kill
      them all
     The medium (food) that they are in - most die faster in
      acidic food than low acid food, and in wet food than
      dry food.
     The temperature - in canning the important temperature is
      the temperature at the coldest spot in the jar.
     The length of time at that temperature - when we heat food,
      not all the organisms will die at the same time, they
      die gradually, and the full process time is necessary
      to be sure that all, even the most heat-resistant ones,
      have died.

     These last two factors, temperature and time, depend on how
much solid vs. liquid is in the jar, and on how tightly the food
is packed.  Heat from the steam or water in the canner penetrates
into different foods at different rates.  Liquids circulate in
the jar and carry the heat into the center of the jar.  Solids
must heat slowly from the outside in.  A process time for
randomly packed green beans, which have spaces for water to
circulate, will not be adequate for "tin soldier" green beans,
when the tightly packed, vertically aligned beans leave no room
for water to circulate.

The most important microorganism in home canning is Clostridium
botulinum.  The toxins it produces damage the nervous system,
producing paralysis and possible death.  The damage to nerve
cells is permanent.  Minute amounts of contaminated food can
carry enough toxin to cause death.  This bacteria produces spores
which are very resistant to heat.  It is also very sensitive to
acid, and will not grow in acid foods.  Other pathogenic bacteria
are usually killed by much less heat and in a shorter period of
time than Cl. botulinum.  Most require air, so will not grow in a
sealed jar. They are of less concern in home canning.

Molds and yeast are of concern because if they grow they can
reduce the amount of acid present in the food.  If that occurs
Cl. botulinum may be able to grow.  Some molds, particularly
those that grow on fruits and fruit products are known to produce
toxins that cause damage to the nervous system and kidneys, or
cancer in research animals.  The likelihood is that they will
cause some damage in humans if consumed often enough.
(Toxin-producing molds grow well on grains and peanuts, but these
products are not home-canned.)   Molds and yeasts will also spoil
the taste, texture, color and overall appearance of the food,
making it unfit for consumption.

Jams, Jellies, Sweet Spreads
In a jam or jelly recipe made with regular pectin, not the low or
no-sugar variety:  If the jam or jelly sets properly (stiffens
into jam or jelly) it has enough sugar to inhibit the growth of
bacteria and all but a few sugar-tolerant molds and yeasts.  This
will also be true for marmalades and preserves, and for jellies
made the long-boil method without added pectin.  The fruit blend
used is not crucial.

However, mold growing on a fruit spread is a problem.  It should
not be scooped off, rather the entire product should be
discarded.  To avoid mold problems, all jellies, jams and sweet
preserves should be packed in pre-sterilized jars and processed 5
minutes or more in a boiling water bath canner.  The exceptions
are some of the sugar-free types which explicitly state on the
package of jelling agent that they should not be processed.
These contain preservatives to prevent mold growth, and the heat
of processing would cause soft jelly.  In addition, heat will
cause the sweetener to break down and lose its sweet taste.

Pickles and Relishes

The pickle recipe is more complicated.  The proportion of acid
(vinegar) to the amount vegetable is crucial. Enough vinegar must
be added to change the low-acid cucumber into a high-acid pickle
to be safe.  There is no formula or set proportion to decide if
the recipe provides for adequate vinegar. The best thing to do is
to find a recipe with similar procedures in the USDA Guide to
Home Canning and compare the amounts. This is especially true of
pickle relishes or vegetable relishes where several vegetables
are ground together.

Similarities to look for include:

1.   Similar recipes will use the same presoak - soak in ice
     water, or in salt water, or no soak.

2.   They will call for the same size cucumbers - 4", or 6", or
     8", or specify small or large.

3.   The maturity of the cucumber influences how much acid it
     will take to pickle it.  Smaller, less mature cucumbers have
     the capacity to neutralize more acid per unit of weight than
     do larger, more mature ones.

4.   Similar recipes will also specify similar procedures with
     the brine: Are the slices or spears packed in the jar raw
     and the brine poured over, are they merely heated in the
     brine, or are they simmered before packing?  Is the
     simmering or boiling time the same?  Each of these will
     influence how rapidly the acid penetrates the cucumber and
     how much the cucumber juice will dilute the acid.

5.   Similar recipes will call for similar proportions of onion
     or other vegetables.

6.   Quantities of salt are critical in fermented pickled
     products; proportion of salt to vegetable to vinegar should
     be very similar to USDA recipe to be sure that it will be
     safe.  Proportions of spices are not crucial and may be
     adjusted to suit tastes without danger.

     If too little salt is used the cucumbers will spoil, get
     slimy, float, smell foul, and the fermenting mixture may
     support the growth of hazardous microorganisms. If too much
     salt is used, there will be no fermentation, just shriveled
     cucumbers sitting in salt water. Either case is obvious: the
     recipe is not good.

     In quick pack pickles the amount of salt is not critical.
     Salt may be omitted, or a reduced sodium salt-type product
     used.  The flavor and texture may be noticeably different,
     and probably less acceptable but, the product will be safe.

All pickle products should be processed in a boiling water bath
to reduce the likelihood of mold or yeast spoilage.  Old recipes
for whole or sliced pickles that have been used for generations
without processing and without spoilage should at least be given
a 10 minute process.

Pickle relish products must also adhere to the USDA proportions
and process times.  Quantities of vegetable and vinegar, heating
prior to packing, and process time must be similar to a USDA
recipe.  An old, tested and trusted recipe may be used if the 10
minute process time is used.  Other recipes may be changed, or
the product refrigerated.

For comparison of quantities, note the following equivalencies:

       1 lb 5" cucumbers = about 5 cucumbers
       1 lb mushrooms = about 6 cups chopped = 1 1/2 cups sauteed
       1 lb onions = about 3 cups chopped = about 4 medium
       1 lb green peppers = about 3 C chopped = 8-9 peppers
       1 lb sweet red peppers = about 3 cups chopped = 6-7
        peppers
       1 lb celery = about 4 cups chopped)
       1 lb tomatoes = about 3 medium = about 1 1/2 cups chopped
       22-23 lb tomatoes = about 7 quart or 28 cups cooked juice

     Other Ingredients:

     The use of alum is unnecessary.  The slight increase in
     crispness that it provides is lost after about 2 months of
     storage.  Few pickles are consumed within 2 months of
     processing.  However, since alum is usually used in very
     small amounts, its use does not constitute a safety problem.

     The use of grape leaves might contribute slightly to flavor.
     They have no significant effect on safety.

     Lime does cause a significant increase in the crispness of
     pickles.  If it is used, all excess lime must be rinsed away
     before the vinegar is added since it will neutralize the
     vinegar.  After the soak in lime water, the cucumber slices
     should be soaked in fresh water then drained, re-soaked and
     drained two more times (3 rinses in fresh water).

     Honey may be used safely, but quantities will need to be
     adjusted for taste, and color may be darker. One cup of
     sugar is equivalent to 3/4 C + 1 T honey (or 1 C less 3 T).

Tomato Products

Tomatoes and tomato products are very hard to categorize.
Tomatoes are borderline acidic.  Lemon juice or other acid
(vinegar, citric or ascorbic acid) must be added to all tomato
products to insure adequate acidity.  Added acid is necessary
whether the product will be pressure canned or boiling water bath
processed.  Bacteria and spores die faster in an acidic
environment, and the recommended process times for pressure
canning assume that the tomatoes are acidic.  The times would not
be reliably adequate to insure safety if the tomatoes were
low-acid.

Green tomatoes are more acidic, and may be used safely in any
recipe calling for red tomatoes.  Overripe and frosted tomatoes
are less acidic and can not be safely home canned.  They can be
frozen.

Addition of salt, while optional, does give an extra margin of
safety.  For dietary information, one teaspoon of salt added to 1
quart of juice or sauce adds about 526 mg sodium per cup.

Addition of low-acid vegetables to tomatoes decreases the
acidity.  The amount by which the acidity is lowered depends on
which vegetables, how much, how finely they are chopped, if they
are boiled in the tomatoes or not, if seeds and skins remain in
or are removed, and if the chunks of vegetable and tomato remain,
if they are ground together or sieved out.  The initial acidity
of the vegetables and tomatoes depends on maturity, growing
conditions, post-harvest holding conditions, and soil/location of
growth.

It is impossible to test every recipe.  It has so far been
impossible to develop a set of proportions or an equation that
would take into account all the variables and give a reliable
assessment of the acidity or the necessary process times.  The
only safe recommendations can be made by comparing the recipe in
question with the USDA guide recipes.  If more vegetable or less
acid (vinegar or lemon juice) is added than the USDA recipe, the
recipe in question can be changed or the product should be
processed according to the process times for the vegetables.
Alternatively the product may be frozen or refrigerated.

These proportions of vegetables have processing times in the USDA
Home Canning Guide:

  Tomato-vegetable juice   22 lb tomato : 3 C chopped vegetable
  Spaghetti sauce          30 lb tomato : 8 C vegetable : no acid
  Ketchup #1               24 lb tomato : 3 C onion : 3 C vinegar
  Ketchup #2               24 lb tomato : 1 C peppers : 2.6 C
                  vinegar
  Ketchup #3               24 lb tomato : 9 C vegetables : 9 C
                  vinegar

Use the equivalencies above to convert the amount of vegetables
to cups before a recipe is evaluated for safety.

The tomato-vegetable juice recipe specifies "chopped vegetables".
Up to but no more than 3 cups of mixed vegetables may be safely
added to tomatoes to make 7 qts of juice.  Which vegetables are
used is not important, the margin of safety is large enough to
tolerate the variations in this recipe.  BUT, after boiling, this
recipe is pressed or sieved, so the chunks are removed, and a
smooth juice is canned.  These proportions can not be used for a
chunky sauce.

The spaghetti sauce is pressure processed, so the proportions can
be different.  The tomato acid and the long boiling prior to
canning are sufficient.  These proportions and procedures can be
used with different spices to make a taco or barbecue sauce type
products.

Ketchups 1 and 2 are pressed or sieved so skins and seeds are
removed.  The proportions are similar, #2 with less added
vegetable has a little less added vinegar.  Ketchup #3 is a
blender ketchup, skins are not removed prior to canning.  The
amount of added vegetable and of added acid is much greater
relative to the amount of tomato.

If these proportions are maintained, the amounts of sugar and
spices may be varied to suit one's taste without endangering the
safety of the product, and processing times given in the USDA
Guide can be used.  If other proportions are used, if the product
is canned chunky instead of sieved smooth, or blended raw
(uncooked) or any other variation,  the processing times are not
valid: the recipe must be changed, or the product must be frozen
or held refrigerated.


Fruits and Vegetables

These products may be safely canned only according to USDA
guidelines.  Piece size, packing density and process times must
be followed.  Grated carrots can not be safely processed
according to times for carrot chunks.  Pumpkin puree can not be
safely canned. The density varies too much, according to variety
and preparation method, to give safe recommendations.  Only
pumpkin chunks may be canned.  Addition of aspirin, salt, or
"canning powders" will not increase the safety or allow for
reduced process times.  Deviations from the specified procedures
might not be safe. The only safe recommendations that can be
given for other procedures is to freeze or refrigerate the
product.

Fruits and vegetables may be pickled.  In this case the
guidelines for pickled products should be used.


Jar Sizes

For all products, if the USDA Home Canning guide only offers
processing times for pint jars, then the product should not be
canned in quarts.  Usually this occurs for dense or tightly
packed products such as cream style corn, or for heat-sensitive
products such as jelly, mushrooms or pickle relishes.  In all
cases, the extra processing time that would be required to insure
an adequate temperature for an adequate time in the coldest part
of the jar would be so long that the quality of the product would
be lost.  Relishes would be soft and mushy, corn would be tough,
jelly would be syrupy.

Packing food for canning in irregularly-shaped jars such as
ketchup bottles or honey bears is not acceptable.  The irregular
shape and size might not allow for normal circulation and heat
penetration, and cold spots might exist that would allow for the
survival of bacteria.

If the product has all ready been packed and processed within the
last 24 hrs, it may be repacked and reprocessed in smaller jars,
or refrigerated.  If it has been longer than 24 hrs since the
processing, the product should be discarded to ensure safety.

Food may be packed and processed in smaller jars, half pint
instead of pint if desired, but the processing time to be used
should be that specified for pints. There is no formula to
determine how much less processing would still be adequate.
Mayonnaise or other straight sided, regularly shaped, commercial
packer jars may be used for boiling water bath canning only.
They should not be used for pressure canning, due to the danger
of breakage, particularly when the canner is opened.  Flying
glass is dangerous.

SUMMARY
1.  SWEET FRUIT SPREADS
     If it was made with regular pectin, high sugar recipe:
     Did it jell?  If it jelled, it has enough sugar, so is safe.
     Was it processed?  If not processed, it should be
     refrigerated for added safety.
     Is there visible mold?  If so, discard the entire contents
     of the container.

     If it was made with a low sugar or no sugar pectin product:
     Were the directions on the box, particularly the processing
     or refrigeration, followed exactly? If the directions were
     not followed, but there is no visible spoilage, the product
     may be refrigerated, or possible frozen. If there is mold,
     if there are bubbles rising, or other signs of spoilage, the
     product must be discarded.

2.  PICKLED VEGETABLE OR FRUIT:
     Find a recipe that has similar ingredients and procedures,
     ie. presoak, size of pieces, maturity and size of
     vegetables, treatment in brine.

     If there is no similar recipe, you can make no judgement on
     the recipe.  If it is an old recipe that has been used
     successfully for generations without spoilage, a 10 minute
     processing should be added.

     If there is a similar recipe, compare the amount of acid to
     vegetable between the two.
     If the recipe in question has less acid, either the acid can
     be increased or vegetable decreased to fit the USDA recipe.
     If acid is increased, sugar may be increased to adjust the
     flavor.

     If the product is all ready made and the recipe is unsafe:
      If it was made less than 24 hrs previously, it may be
      refrigerated.
      If it was made more than 24 hrs previously, it should
      be disposed of in a safe manner.

     If the recipe is safe but the product was not processed:
      If it was made less than 24 hrs previously, it may be
      processed, with new lids.
      If it is cold, either empty the jars, heat product,
      repack, and put into hot water, or put cold, filled
      jars in cold water, heat together; process for full
      time.
      It may be refrigerated, or frozen if feasible.
      If it was made more than 24 hr previously, and has not
      been refrigerated, it should be disposed of in a safe
      manner.


3. TOMATO-VEGETABLE BLEND:
     Find a similar recipe in the USDA Guide. Check ingredients,
     proportions, and procedures.

     If there is no similar recipe, no processing times can be
     estimated.  To err on the side of safety, do not using the
     recipe, or freeze the product.

     If there is a similar recipe, check proportions of tomato to
     vegetable, and be sure there is added lemon juice or
     vinegar.  Minor adjustments to quantities of ingredients may
     be made to fit the USDA recipe.

     USDA recipes for juice can not be used to judge chunky sauce
     recipes, or vice versa.

     Spices and seasonings are not crucial to the safety of a
     recipe and can be adjusted.


4.  FRUIT OR VEGETABLE:
     Only USDA procedures and processing times may be considered
     safe.

     Products improperly processed less than 24 hours previously
     may be reprocessed, with new lids, or refrigerated or
     frozen.

     Products improperly processed more than 24 hrs previously
     should be discarded as potentially unsafe.


5.  Wrong JAR OR JAR SIZE:
     If a larger jar or an irregularly shaped jar was used, and
     the food was processed less than 24 hours previously, it may
     be reprocessed, with new lids, in smaller jars.

     If more than 24 hours have passed, the food should be
     discarded.

Prepared by Mary A. Keith, Foods and Nutrition, September, 1991
Revised by M. Susan Brewer, Foods and Nutrition, June, 1992
EHE-705
----
How To Evaluate Recipes - Procedures

Here are five sample recipes taken from two home canning
cookbooks on the market.  Use the questions and procedures from
Fact Sheet EHE-705, Evaluating Home Canning Recipes For Safety,
to evaluate them (see above--LEB).  You will also need the USDA
Complete Guide to Home Canning.

I.   Pepper relish

     2 C chopped sweet red peppers           4 C cider vinegar
     2 C chopped sweet green peppers         4 C sugar
     4 C shredded cabbage                    4 T mustard seeds
     2 C chopped onions                      1 T celery seeds
     3 small hot red peppers, chopped        4 T salt

     Mix all the ingredients and let stand in a cool place
overnight.  In the morning pack in sterilized jars and seal.

II.  Picnic Relish

     12 sweet green peppers, seeded          6 C sugar
     12 onions, peeled                       2 t dry mustard
     12 green tomatoes                       1 t allspice
     1/2 C salt                              1/4 T red pepper
     4 C cider vinegar

     Put all the vegetables through the medium blade of a food
chopper, sprinkle with the salt, and let stand 4 hr. drain, rinse
in clear water, and drain again.  In a kettle combine the vinegar
and sugar. Bring the liquid to a boil, add vegetables and spices.
Boil for 10 min. and seal in hot jars.

III. Chili Sauce I

     24 large ripe tomatoes             2 C cider vinegar
     1 small bunch celery, chopped      2 T salt
     6 onions, chopped                  1 t pepper
     3 cloves garlic, minced            1 t dry mustard
     3 sweet red peppers, seeded and chopped
     2 T whole allspice, tied in a bag  1 1/2 C light brown sugar

     Scald, peel, core, and quarter the tomatoes.  Squeeze out
the seeds and excess juice and chop the pulp finely.  Put the
pulp in a large kettle, bring to a boil, and boil rapidly until
the tomatoes are soft.  Ladle off the clear liquid that comes to
the top of the tomatoes while they  are cooking.  Add the
remaining ingredients and cook for 30 min. Discard the spice bag
and continue to cook for about 1 hour longer, or until thick,
stirring occasionally.  Seal in hot sterilized jars.


IV.  Chili Sauce II

     4 qt ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
     1 C chopped onions                      2 sticks cinnamon
     1 1/2 C chopped red peppers             2 C vinegar
     1 1/2 C chopped green peppers           1 C sugar
     1 1/2 t whole allspice                  3 T salt
     1 1/2 t whole cloves

     In a large preserving kettle, combine the tomatoes, onions,
and peppers.  Add the spices, tied in a bag, bring the mixture to
a boil and cook until it is reduced to half its volume, stirring
frequently.  Add the vinegar, sugar, and salt and boil rapidly
for 5 min., stirring constantly.  Discard the spice bag. Pour
into hot jars and seal.


V.   Shirley's Sweet-Sour Sauce

     10 C chopped, ripe tomatoes        2 C sugar
     2/3 C chopped green peppers        2 C 5% acid cider vinegar
     2 C chopped onions                 2 T canning/pickling salt

     Dip tomatoes into boiling water 1/2 min. to loosen skins.
Cool in cold water. Remove skins and cores. Blend or put through
food chopper. Place in 8-qt. kettle. Remove stems, membranes and
seeds from peppers and peel onions before chopping.  Add to
tomatoes; stir in sugar, vinegar and salt. Simmer, uncovered,
stirring frequently, for 2 hours or until thick and sauce begins
to round up on spoon. Ladle into 3 hot pint jars, filling to
within 1/8" of jar top. Wipe jar rims: adjust lids.  Process in
boiling water bath 15 minutes.  Start to count processing time
when water in canner returns to boiling.  Remove jars and
complete seals unless closures are self-sealing type. Makes 3
pints.

ANALYSIS OF THE RECIPES

I.   Pepper Relish

     A.   First, as it stands, there is neither cooking nor
processing. The recipe can not be used as is. Can it be made
useable?  Here's how to try.

     B.   What are the vegetable:acid proportions?   Add the cups
of vegetable.  There are 10 C vegetables.  The 3 small hot
peppers are negligible so they do not need to be counted.  There
are 4 C vinegar.  Notice that the recipe did not specify 5%
acidity.

     C.   What is the most similar USDA recipe?  While the
Piccalilli recipe (p. 18) might look similar because they both
have shredded cabbage, it really is not, because it has green
tomatoes, an acid product, and the questionable recipe has no
acid foods. So, the USDA recipe to use is the Pickled
Pepper-Onion Relish (p.18).

     D.   What are the USDA proportions? Twelve cups of
vegetables to 6 C vinegar.

      recipe    10 C veg : 4 C acid = 2.4 C veg : 1 C acid

      USDA      12 C veg : 6 C acid = 2.0 C veg : 1 C acid

      Therefore, this recipe does not have enough acid to be
      safe.

     E.   What recommendations can be made?

      If the vinegar were increased to five cups, the ratio
would then be 2 C veg : 1 C acid (10:5). So, to use this recipe:

      a. increase the vinegar to 5 C
      b. use 5% acidity vinegar
      c. boil the mixture for 30 min. to use USDA procedures
      d. presterilize jars
      e. process the filled jars for 5 min. in boiling water

     OR:  f. make the recipe as directed, do not seal it,
         refrigerate.

     Note that the recipe all ready has much more sugar (4C) than
the USDA recipe, so the increased vinegar should still be
acceptable. However, the sugar could be increased still further
to counteract the vinegar increase if desired.

     If the recipe is made in its original form, the jars should
be covered but the lids should not be sealed.  There should be no
vacuum in the jars. Since nothing has been done to kill or
inactivate any Cl. botulinum spores or cells, air should be left
in the jar. The air will prevent its growth.


II.  Picnic relish

     A.   What is the most similar USDA recipe?  In this case,
the Piccalilli (p.18) is the reference recipe to use.  Both the
ingredients and the procedures are similar.  It does have green
tomatoes, it does call for soaking the vegetables in salt water
and draining them, and it does call for simmering them before
packing.  So, while the times are not quite the same, the next
step is to look at proportions.

     B.   What are the vegetable:acid proportions?  With this
recipe it is not as simple as adding the quantities, because this
one only specifies numbers of peppers, etc., and not cups.  Use
the equivalencies table in fact sheet (705) to estimate how many
cups of produce it uses.

       12 peppers; 9 peppers = about 3 C,       so 12 = about 4 C
       12 onions;  4 onions = about 3 C,        so 12 = about 9 C
       12 tomatoes; 3 tomatoes = about 1.5 C,   so 12 = about 6 C

      TOTAL VEGETABLES =            19 C

      4 C vinegar
      TOTAL ACID=                    4 C

      In the USDA recipe there are a total of almost 19 C of
vegetables, but the vinegar amount is  4.5 C.

      Recipe:   19 C vegetables :    4 C   acid
      USDA:     18.75 C vegetables : 4.5 C acid

     C.   So, to correct the proportions, the acid must be
increased at least to 4.5 C, or better yet, to 4.75 C of vinegar.
This recipe also has much more sugar than the USDA recipe, so the
increased vinegar might not be noticeable.  If it is the sugar
may be increased as desired.

     D.   What recommendations can be made?

      a. use 5% acidity vinegar
      b. increase the vinegar from 4 C to 4.75 cups
      c. mix the salt in, do not just sprinkle it on top
      d. increase the time of soaking from 4 hrs to 12 hrs
      e. increase the simmering time from 10 min to 30 min
      f. use presterilized jars
      g. process the filled jars for 5 min in boiling water

     OR:  h. use the recipe as is, do not seal, refrigerate the
         product

III. Chili Sauce I

     A.   The procedures in this recipe are so different that
there are no USDA recipes to use for reference.  It can not be
considered safe.

     B.   Explanation and analysis:

      When the juice is removed from tomatoes by mechanical
means  (squeezing, ladling off the clear liquid) the acid balance
is changed.  With the juice removed, it will take less time for
the sauce to become thick when it is cooked.  But, that means
that there is less cooking time to kill bacteria and mold spores.
Also, because it is thicker the heat will penetrate and kill the
spores more slowly.  So, the product going into the jar has a
greater likelihood of still having live spores present.  And, if
it were processed, because it is thick, it would need more than
the usual process time to kill them.

     C.   The only recommendation that can be made with a recipe
of this type is to refrigerate the product without sealing, or
freeze it. It can not be canned safely.


IV.  Chili Sauce II

     A.   First look at the procedures in this recipe.  The
tomatoes and vegetables are boiled together until it is thick.
But, the mixture is not sieved or put through a food mill. All
the skins and seeds are left in.  Therefore, this has to be
considered in looking for a similar USDA recipe.  There are
several possibilities; the Spaghetti Sauce without Meat (p. 13),
or any of the Ketchup recipes (p. 16-17).

     B.   So, go to proportions and see which matches best.

      Chili Sauce       Spaghetti           Ketchups
      ?          Sauce     Regular  Western   Blender
tomatoes   16 C      30lb=45 C 24lb=36C  36C        36C
onions      1 C      1 C       3C        --       (2 lb = 6C)
red pepper 1.5 C     --        --        5chili   (1 lb = 3C)
grn pepper 1.5 C     1 C       --        --       (1 lb = 3C)
mushrooms  1 lb=6 C            --        --        --

TOTAL VEG:
      4 C       8 C       3 C       0 C       12 C
TOTAL TOMATO
      16 C      45 C      36 C      36 C      36 C
TOTAL ACID
      2 C       --        3 C       2.6 C           9 C

     C.   Spaghetti sauce: the proportions do look the closest.
      Half of each quantity is 4 C vegetables to 22.5 C
      tomatoes. However, looking at the directions, it
      specifically states: "Caution-do not increase the
      proportion of vegetables."  So, for an exact match, the
      amount of tomatoes in the chili sauce recipe would have
      to be increased to 22.5 C.  You might say "Yes, but the
      chili sauce has vinegar added." That is true, but there
      is no way of knowing if the added vinegar is enough to
      compensate for the fewer tomatoes.  (Both are acid.)
      If you adapt to the spaghetti sauce recipe, the vinegar
      becomes optional.

      Next, notice that the tomatoes in the spaghetti sauce
      are sieved to remove the seeds and thick pulp.  This
      would have to be done for the chili sauce too.The skins
      have been removed in both recipes.  Also, notice that
      the spaghetti sauce recipe only has directions for
      pressure processing.  Many consumers do not have or do
      not want to use a pressure canner for their tomato
      products.  The other vegetables remain, so the sauce is
      chunky.

     D.   So, if the spaghetti sauce recipe were used the
      recommendations would be:

      a. increase the tomatoes to 22.5 C
      b. sieve to remove the seeds of the tomatoes.
      c. process in a pressure canner, 10 psig for 20/25 min.
      d. the vinegar is optional, use it for flavor

      All the chili sauce spices would remain the same, so
      the flavor should be quite similar to the original.

     E.   Now, look at the proportions of the ketchup recipes
      compared to the chili sauce in question.

     chili     1 C veg.  :    4 C tomato     :    0.5 C acid
     Regular   1 C veg.  :    12 C tomato    :    1 C acid
     Western   - C veg.  :    14 C tomato    :    1 C acid
     Blender   1 C veg.  :    3 C tomato     :    0.75 C acid

      Of the ketchups, we can eliminate the Western, because
      it has no added vegetables at all.  It is essentially
      spicy tomato sauce.  The regular ketchup has a much
      higher proportion of tomato to vegetable, and more acid
      as well.  This is what happens when the solids are
      removed (sieved out).

     F.   What can be done with the blender ketchup recipe?  The
      amount of vinegar would have to be increased from 2 C
      to 3 C.  There are more tomatoes than needed, but that
      only increases the safety margin.  So, they do not have
      to be changed.  The spices and cooking procedure could
      be left the same, with the exception of blending the
      tomatoes and vegetables together.  This would insure
      that all the pieces are small enough to coincide with
      the USDA recipe.  It becomes a smooth rather than
      chunky product but all the original solids are still
      present. And finally, the product would have to be
      processed.

     G.   The recommended changes in the recipe would be:

      a. specify 5% acidity vinegar
      b. increase the vinegar from 2 C to 3 C
      c. blend the tomatoes and vegetables together before
         cooking
      d. process the product for 15 min in boiling water

     OR   e. use as is, do not seal, refrigerate or freeze the
         product


V.   Shirley's Sweet-Sour Sauce

     A.   Begin with the procedures.  The tomato skins are
      removed, the rest of the tomato is blended, the onions
      and peppers are chopped, added to the tomatoes, and the
      mixture is simmered until thick.  It is not sieved.  Of
      the USDA tomato recipes used in the previous section,
      the Blender ketchup is again the most similar in
      procedures.

     B.   Look at the proportions.

     sweet-sour  2.6 C veg :    10 C tom  :    2 C acid

     or to reduce it to lowest common denominator (divide all by
     2.6):

     sweet-sour  1 C veg   :    4  C tom  :    0.75 C acid
     Blender     1 C veg   :    3  C tom  :    0.75 C acid

      So, this is an almost perfect match.  The sweet-sour
      sauce has more tomatoes than necessary for minimum
      safety, the acid and vegetable are balanced correctly.
      The long boiling times match, the final processing
      times match.

     C.   What recommendations are necessary?

      The only thing that could be said would be "Be sure the
      vegetables are chopped finely, to approximate the
      blending used in the Blender ketchup." Most people
      wouldn't mind using a blender to chop the vegetables,
      so it is a minor change.

Remember, if there is no similar USDA recipe, the only
recommendation can be to freeze or refrigerate the product.

Prepared by Mary A. Keith, Foods and Nutrition, September, 1991
Revised by M. Susan Brewer, Foods and Nutrition, June, 1992
EHE-705 Supplement
----
================================================================
--------------VI. Other Sources (besides this FAQ)-------------
================================================================

[This FAQ does not tell me what I need to know!]

Please put the question to the group, rec.food.preserving.  Rec.food.
cooking, rec.food.historic, misc.consumers.frugal-living and misc.
survivalism all have dealt with some food preservation traffic.  Sci.
bio.food-science has been helpful for more pointed scientific questions
about food preservation.

GENERAL REFERENCE BOOKS:

N.B. I've attached a little code to describe the main contents of the
books I have or know about. {c = canning/ f = freezing/ dr = dehydra-
tion/ s = smoking/ p = pickling/ cr = curing/ pt = potting/ d = distill-
ing/ rc = root cellaring}

 Putting Food By (1991). Janet Greene, Ruth Hertzberg, Beatrice Vaughan.
ISBN 0-452-26899-0.  If you only can afford one book on this subject,
this is the one to get. {c,f,dr,s,cr,p,rc}

 Stocking Up (1990).  Carol Hupping.  ISBN 0-671-69395.  This is the book
compiled by the Rodale Institute.  Check for copyright dates, especially
if you are curing meats.  Early editions have meat curing protocols and
recipes, the latest edition does not. {c,f,dr,p,rc,d}

 The Ball Blue Book: The Guide to Home Canning and Freezing (various).
Ball Corporation.  So important, it is its own question in the FAQ.  You
may order your copy using the coupon on the top of your next case of Ball
jars. {c,f,p}

 Kerr Kitchen Book, Home Canning and Freezing Guide (various).  Kerr
Glass Manufacturing Corporation.   Can order your copy using the coupon
on the top of your next case of Kerr Jars. {c,f,p}

 Bernardin Guide to Home Preserving (various).  Bernardin of Canada.  Con-
sumer Services/ Bernardin of Canada Ltd/ 120 The East Mall/ Etobicobe
Ontario M8Z 5V5.  ISBN 0-9694719-0-4.  Also can order your copy via the
coupon contained on side of the box of lids, also on top of the next case
of Mason jars.  Also printed in French.

 Complete Guide to Home Canning, Preserving, and Freezing (various). USDA.
Dover Publication  ISBN 0-486-27888-3. Tip from Susan Hattie Steinsapir
<[e-mail]>.  Another tip for the cheap--The USDA Complete Guide
to Home Canning is online.  Look for the address under Electronic Sources.

 Sunset Home Canning Guide (1993).  ISBN 0-376-02433.  Now you know I'm
posting west of the Mississippi; this book can be hard to find in the
eastern United States. {c,f,p}


SPECIFIC TECHNIQUES AND INTERESTS

Arranged in alphabetical order.  If your favorite book isn't here, talk
about it in r.f.p, and I'll put it on the list...

 The Art of Accompaniment (1988).  Jeffree Sapp-Brooks. ISBN 0-86547-346-
3. {c,p,d}. Some of the most unusual jam/chutney/sauce recipes I've seen.
Love the dried fig jam recipe, still thinking of trying out the carrot/
date marmalade.  Lots of quick pickle recipes, a kimchee recipe, even a
recipe for pickling grape leaves for dolmathes..

 Better Than Store Bought: Authoritative Recipes for the Foods that Most
People Never Knew They Could Make at Home  (1979).  Helen Witty, Elizabeth
Schneider Colchie.  ISBN 0-06-014693-1.   Recipes in this book include
those for crystallized violets, tomato ketchup, German-style mustard,
pickled okra, chutneys, mustards, jellies and jams, gravlax, three recipes
for corned beef, and smoked meats and fish.  While you're waiting for the
fish to smoke, you can whip up some pudding mix, or make marshmallows or
fig newtons.  Recipes do not appear to be excessively difficult--some,
like those for mustards and flavored liqueurs, are simple--and descrip-
tions of ingredients and finished products are clear and understandable.
Thanks to: [e-mail] (Kevin Johnson)

 Canning (1983, also various).  Bill and Sue Demming.  HP Books.  ISBN 0-
89586-185-2. {c}.

 Canning and Preserving Without Sugar (1993).  Norma M. MacRae.  ISBN 1-
56440-163-4. {c}

 Clearly Delicious (1994).  Elizabeth Lambert-Ortiz, Judy Ridgway.  ISBN
1-56458-513-1.

 The Country Kitchen (1979).  Jocasta Innes.  Frances Lincoln Publishers
LTD, London. ISBN 0-906459-01-X  This book also contains recipes for
scones and blackcurrant jam, besides many others, many of which touch on
preservation topics, including curing hams and bacon, salting and smoking
fish, making pickles, chutneys, preserves, butter, cheeses, etc.  Review
from James Harvey <[e-mail]>

 Don Holm's Book of Food Drying, Pickling, and Smoke Curing (1992).  Don
and Myrtle Holm.  ISBN 0-870004-250-5. {dr,p,s,cr}

 Dry It - You'll Like It (1974).  Gen MacManiman. Published by MacManiman,
Inc., P.O. Box 546, Fall City, WA 98024. from <[e-mail]>. {dr}

 European Peasant Cookery: The Rich Tradition (1986). Elizabeth Luard.
Corgi Publishing.  ISBN 0-552-12870-8.

 The Fancy Pantry (1986).  Helen Witty.  ISBN 0-89480-094-9. {c,p,d,pt}.
The first food preserving book I ever bought.  I still use a lot of the
recipes in it.  The pear honey recipe is sinful, so is the green tomato
mincemeat.  Cornichon, sundried tomato, pepper flavored vodka, pepper jam,
herb jellies...Excuse me while I go get my waterbath canner..

 Farm Journal's Homemade Pickles and Relishes (1976).  Betsy McCracken.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 76-14048. {p}

 Feast of the Olive (1993).  Maggie Beth-Klein.  ISBN 0-8118-0523-9.
Several olive curing techniques listed here, also everything you've wanted
to know about different olive oils. {cr}

 Fruits of the Desert (1986).  Sandal English.  ISBN 0-9607-758-0-3.
Preserving fairly exotic fruits, such as kumquats, loquats, fresh figs,
cactus fruits, olives. {c,p,cr,d,dr}

 The Glass Pantry: Preserving Seasonal Flavors (1994).  Georgeanne Brenner.
ISBN 0-8118-0393-7. {c,p,dr,d,pt}

 Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing (1984).  Rytek Kutas.  Self pub-
lished.  Can be obtained from the author at The Sausage Maker Inc./ 26
Military Road/ Buffalo NY 14207. (716)-876-5521.  {s,cr}.  BTW, you can
also get equipment and supplies here.

 The Herbal Pantry (1992).  Chris Mead, Emelie Tolley.  ISBN 0-517-58331
-3. {c,p,d}

 Herbal Vinegar (1994).  Maggie Oster.  ISBN 0-88266-843-9. {d}

 How to Dry Foods (various).  Deanna DeLong.  HP books.  This book is
highly recommended by Anna Louise Gockel, and several other folks in r.f.
p. {dr}

 Keeping Food Fresh (1989).  Janet Bailey.  ISBN 0-06-272503.  This book
will also give you tips on how to select produce from either the super-
market or garden. {f,rc}

 Keeping the Harvest (1990).  Nancy Chioffi and Gretchen Mead.  ISBN 0-
88266-650-9.

 Little Chief Smoker Recipes (?). Is available at:  Luhr Jensen and Sons,
Inc./Post Office Box 296/Hood River, OR 97031. from Hank Nolle <HNolle@
airnet.net>.

 Making and Using Dried Foods (1994).  Phyllis Hobson.  ISBN 0-88266-615
-0. {dr}

 Mary Bell's Complete Dehydrator Cookbook (1994).  Mary Bell. ISBN 0-688-
13372-X.  {dr}  from Paul Opitz <rpo3352@omega>

 Mary Norwak's The Book of Preserves (Jams, Chutneys, Pickles, jellies).
Mary Norwak. ISBN 0-89586-507-6, HPBooks.  A tip o' the hat from Barb
Schaller <[e-mail]>

 Native Harvest (1979).  Barrie Kavasch.  Vintage Books.  Native American
preserving recipes, including pemmican. {dr}

 Out of the Sugar Rut (1978).  HAH Publications/ Box 2589/ Colorado
Springs, CO 80906.  Low sugar canning recipes, from Jean Sumption
<[e-mail]> {c}

 Preserving Today (1992).  Jeanne Lesem.  ISBN 0-364-58653-0. {c,dr,p}

 Root Cellaring (1994).  Mike and Nancy Bubel.  ISBN 0-88266-703-3. {rc}

 Smoking Salmon and Trout ().  Jack Whelan. ISBN 0-919807-00-3.  Aerie
Publishing, Deep Bay, Vancouver Island R.R.1, Bowser, B.C. V0R 1G0.  This
is probably the best resource for smoking fish that I've ever seen.  It is
where I learned the art of cold smoking using a forced draft smoker.
Plans on how to build various smokers are in the book. Also has the best
description on the whys and therefors of marinades and brining that I've
ever read. review from Kai <[e-mail]> {s}

 Summer in a Jar: Making Pickles, Jams, and More (1985).  Andrea Chessman.
ISBN 0-913589-14-4.  This book has basic canning instructions but also
some inventive recipes.  It has a section on single jar recipes (although
why anyone would go to the trouble to can one jar of something is beyond
me). The single jar recipes are, however, successfully increased to make a
reasonable batch.  The jam recipes are easy and unusual - they don't re-
quire that you use pectin or make your own apple pectin.  My favorite is
peach maple jam - low sugar and very tasty.  It also has lots of recipes
for vegetable pickles. (from Rachel Beckford <[e-mail]>) {c}

--N.B. Many standard cookbooks, such as Joy of Cooking, will give you in-
formation on preserving food and recipes.  Check for the most recent edit-
ion and the copyright dates.  Ethnic cookbooks often have food preserving
or condiment recipes that can be preserved (refrigerate or freeze if in
doubt about canning them).--

BOOKS AND GUIDES TO EQUIPMENT:

"Red Book No. 6 The Collector's Guide to Old Fruit Jars" by Alice M.
Creswick.  This is one of two by Creswick on fruit jars.  A purchase
address is Alice Creswick, 0-8525 Kenowa Sw., Grand Rapids, Michigan
49504.  Thanks from: Emily Dashiell <[e-mail]>

"1000 Fruit Jars Priced and Illustrated" by Bill Schroeder.  1996 is
the fifth edition. An ordering address is: Collector Books/P.O. Box
3009/Paducah KY 42002-3009. 1996 price is $5.95 + $2.00 handling.  The
dedication lists William A. Dudley as a dealer in rare jars.  His
address is: 393 Franklin Ave./Xenia OH 45385.  From Leslie Basel
<[e-mail]>

Home Canning Supply & Specialties (Hugh and Myra Arrendale) have a sel-
ection of books, bulletins, and pamphlets (not to mention canning jars
and supplies).  They are in San Diego CA area, 1-800-354-4070 (orders);
619-788-0520; fax [phone].  They have USDA Complete Guide to Home
Canning, Preserving and Freezing (240 pages, $7.95, 2/1/95) and many more.
Give Myra a call for her current catalog/pricelist.  Info from Barb
Schaller <[e-mail]>.

FOOD PRESERVING BOOKS OF HISTORIC INTEREST:

 The Domostroi: Rules for Russian Households in the Time of Ivan the
Terrible (original 1550's, current English translation 1994).  Edited and
translated by Carolyn Johnston Pouncy.  ISBN 0-8014-2410-0.  If you think
preserving food is a lot of work nowadays, imagine being a Russian house
steward in 1550...

 Michel de Nostradame (Nostradamus) apparently published a collection of
jelly recipes.  Boy, I'd love to get my hands on this!  (From Cecil Adams,
_The Straight Dope_)

 The Foxfire series (especially Foxfire 1) has some information on food
preserving techniques as they are (and were) practiced in the southeastern
US.

 From [e-mail] (M Zoe Holbrooks) in rec.food.historic: I've
just gotten word that Louis & Clark Booksellers (P.O. Box 5093, Madison,
WI 53705) has a complete set of the Mallinckrodt Collection of Food Clas-
sics for sale.  The set of 6 volumes includes:  Nicholas Appert (The Art
of Preserving All Kinds of Animal and Vegetable Substances for Several
Years; 1812); Frederick Accum (A Treatise on Adulterations of Food, and
Culinary Poisons; 1820); Denys Papin (A New Digester or Engine for Soft-
ening Bones; 1681); H. Jackson (An Essay on Bread; 1758); Platina (De
honesta voluptate; 1475); and Kenelme Digbie (The Closet of the Eminent-
ly Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie Kt. Opened; 1669).  Most of these works are
difficult to find.  If interested, please contact them directly (tel# 608
-231-6850).  They are not yet online (maybe later this year).  My personal
experience with them has been pleasant and rewarding.  They put out a cat-
alog at least once a year and it never fails to include something I "can't
live without"!

PAMPHETS:

 Consumer Information Center, Department EE, Pueblo CO 81009.  Ask for the
Consumer Mailing List Catalog.  Can order those nifty USDA pamphets from
this catalog.

 The Foodsense series of pamphets in the UK.  Keeping Food cool and safe.
The booklet number is PB 1649 and it can be obtained from... Foodsense,
London, SE 99. 7 TT. Tele 01645 556000.  There are a number of other book-
lets in this food series covering such things as additives, labels,
pesticides, radioactivity in food, etc.  Citation From Ron Lowe <arlo@
we118can.demon.co.uk>.

 Heinz Successful Pickling Guide, P.O. Box 57, Pittsburgh PA 15230.  (That
PO Box is easy to remember, eh?)

 The Pleasures of Pickling (1986).  46 pg. Older editions appeared as the
Pampered Pickle, each are from Sifto Salt Division of Domtar Inc.  Write
to: Sifto Canada Inc./ 5430 Timberlea Blvd./ Mississauga, Ontario/ Canada
L4W 2T7/ 1-800-387-8580 (from Brenda Sharpe, aj471@.freenet.carleton.ca)

 Home Meat Curing Guide.  Morton Salt. can get at the Cumberland General
Store/ Rt 3/ Box 81/ Crossville TN 38555.  32 pg. 15 meat recipes and
various techniques for curing hams with Morton salt products: dry cure,
dry/sweet pickle cure combination, aged/non-aged cures.

 So Easy to Preserve.  Agriculture Business Office, 203 Conner Hall, Coop-
erative Extension Service, University of Georgia, Athens GA, 30602.

 Kraft General Foods has booklets and info available:  1-800-437-3284
(1-800-43PECTIN  :-) Their Gifts From the Harvest has a couple of conserve
recipes.  So, too, does Fruits of the Harvest.  And, surprise, Fruits of
the Harvest Beyond the Basics.  Not surprisingly, all of their recipes
involve added pectin in one form or another.  From Barb Schaller <Schaller_
[e-mail]>.

 Check for pamphets when you purchase new equipment.  I recently found a
multi-lingual pamphet (English, French, German, Spanish) on canning with
a new waterbath canner.

 Seed Catalogs have ordering information for canning supplies, and food
preserving information.  Catalogs to check for this include Johnny's Sel-
ect Seeds, Gurney's Seed Nursery, Burpee, Henry Fields.  Tip 'o the hat
to Joan Lane <[e-mail]>..

 Check your extension service office for pamphets, which can usually be
bought for a dollar or so.  Especially important for high altitude canning,
getting recipes specific for locale, even information on U-Pick sites and
local farmers' markets.

 The Church of Latter Day Saints can sell you a copy of "Essentials of
Home Production and Storage" which is _really basic_, but a good start.
Another idea is to get catalogs from Emergency Essentials (Ogden, UT),
Out-N-Back (Salt Lake City, UT) and Nitro-Pak Preparedness Ctr (CA).  All
have 800 #'s, free catalogs (last I checked) and sell lots of books.
Citation from Logan VanLeigh <[e-mail]>.



MAGAZINES:

(These are all hit or miss.  To the best of my knowledge, no magazine
specific to food preserving exists.)

 The Herb Companion               Sunset
 Mother Earth News                Saveur
 Organic Gardening                Martha Stewart's Living
 Better Homes and Gardens         Farmer's Almanac (various)


PHONE:   (non-modem)

 Kerr Hot Line                                   1-800-654-6249
 Ball Hot Line                                   1-800-240-3340
 Mrs. Wages                                      1-800-647-8170
 Kraft General Foods Corp.        1-800-431-1001/1-800-437-3284
 Sifto Canada, Inc.                              1-800-387-8580
 Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints     1-800-537-5950
  (distribution center for food preservation pamphets)

Also check locally:
 your extension service--check your local university directory, especially
if its a Land Grant College; look under Government Services, under Dept. of
Agriculture.
 The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints usually has a local Relief
Society (womens' auxiliary) representative to call. (From Logan VanLeigh.)
 Master Preservers--similar to Master Gardeners or Master Composters.

ELECTRONIC:

 ftp ftp.ucdavis.edu    pub/extension/4h-youth   fp001.zip-fp008.zip
 gopher dale.ucdavis.edu  Look for Food Preservation pointer.
Files are eight lessons in food preservation, written for 4H students.
They are compressed, written in Word Perfect 5.1 or Post Script format.

 gopher cesgopher.ag.uiuc.edu   Point to Food-and-Nutrition, then Food
Preservation.
30 files here, ranging from pressure canning to pawpaws.  A good collect-
ion of M. Susan Brewer's fact sheets, some of which are reprinted here.

 gopher tinman.mes.umn.edu:70+/11/.Nutrition/Safety
Here's a gold mine of food safety, food storage, and food preservation
information from the University of Minnesota.  Has a lot of good files on
freezing food, and has some unusual entries like on how to treat wild game,
preserving nuts, preserving seeds (sunflower seeds, popcorn).  Also has
files about Listeria, E. coli, Salmonella.

 http://ext.usu.edu/publicat/foodpubs.html
You will find the entire contents of the USDA canning guide along with
several other food safety data sheets.  From Dirk Howard <dhoward@novell.
com>.

 http://www.hoptechno.com/book30.htm
The unabridged edition of the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning.  All
258 pages of it.  Somebody at Johns Hopkins has carpel tunnel from all
that typing.

 http://www.dfst.csiro.au/handling.htm
 http://www.dfst.csiro.au/consumer.htm
Files from the Commonwealth Science Industrial Research Organization
Department of Food Sciences (Australia).  Excellent files on handling
frozen, refrigerated, and thawed food, including little known facts
about the average refrigerator.  Thank you to John Laidler <johnl@zeta.
org.au>.

 gopher etcs.ext.missouri.edu, look for the Food Preservation pointers.
11 files of the Lets Preserve It! electronic magazine published by the Uni-
versity of Missouri extension service.  Lots of good information here, es-
pecially on freezing food.  Also, this site contains a 39-question food
preservation FAQ, containing very basic questions answered very simply.

 http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/
Colorado Extension on-line.  They also have a LOT of other good food
preservation publications (all in Adobe .pdf format). From Michael Stall-
cup <[e-mail]>

 http://www.agen.ufl.edu/~foodsaf/
A collection of food preservation and food safety files collected at the
University of Florida.  There is a lot of information here, but you will
be driven mad by the non-descriptive file titles.  Some hints:  can*,
canning; freeze*, freezing; cont*, contamination; dry*, dehydration.
He522=file on dehydration (Thank you Daniel Burke).  Several of the two
letter codes are from specific states; e.g. ga, il, nc, de, wi, wy.

 ftp.rtd.com:/pub/rthead/msfaq.txt
 http://www.azstarnet.com/~thead/msfaq.html
These are the addresses and URLs for the current version Rick Thead's
Meat Curing and Smoking FAQ.  An early version of that FAQ is contained
in this FAQ, while the current version has more recipes and advice.

 telnet to sunSITE.unc.edu  cd pub/academic.  Check out the rec.gardens
herb.faq, which contains advice on preserving herbs.  And now we have:

 ftp: ftp.sunsite.unc.edu /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/
herbal-medicine/faqs/culiherb.txt
 http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmeds/culiherb.html
Henriette Kresses' four part culinary herb FAQ (and its almost as big as
this!).  She also crossposts it on rec.food.preserving monthly.  The cul-
inary herb faq has ideas and recipes for preserving herbs--check out the
recipes for garlic and lavender jelly, herbal syrups, scented and flavor-
ed sugars, candied and sugared rose petals.  Also contains info on drying
herbs, making herb vinegars, etc.

 http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~mow/intro.html
The FDA's Home Page and Bad Bug Book.  If we haven't scared you, maybe
they can.  From Ron Meisenheimer <[e-mail]>.

 Email [e-mail]   Write a one line
message containing the command SUBSCRIBE to this listserve address.  This
is the chile heads mailing list, which has info on preserving chile peppers.

 http://chile.ucdmc.ucdavis.edu:8000/www/preserve.html
Point to this www site for information on preserving chile peppers.  This
includes recipe classics like drying (make your own ristra!), pickling,
smoking, and pepper jam; but there are novel recipes like honey preserved
chiles, chiles in sherry, and salted chiles.

 http://www.accessone.com/~sbcn/index.htm
The homepage of the Solar Cooking Archive, with an article describing
solar canning and solar dehydration.  From Tom Sponheim <tsponheim@
accessone.com>.  [N.B. Solar Canning has not been tested for safety by the
USDA, and should only be tried with high acid fruits and jams.  The info's
out there, and for the adventurous, its your call.--LEB]

 http://me-www.jrc.it/htbin/cook?tag=sections/canning-preserving
This is a www site with a few (very few) preserving recipes mostly taken
from rec.food.recipes.

 gopher rincewind.mech.virginia.edu
 gopher gs1.gac.peachnet.edu
Two sites containing food preserving recipes from both rec.food.preserving
and rec.food.recipes.  If you contributed a favorite food preserving recipe
in these two groups, it might well be here.
----

Please direct questions, comments, criticisms, and contributions to:
 [e-mail]
 [e-mail]
-----
One last quote:
"And here, without secrecy anywhere or of any kind, are some recipes which
seem to have outlived the nineteenth century, our Golden Age of Pickling.
Like most family jewels, they are called Sarah's This and Maggie's That,
and in one way or another all of these people were witches, so I have care-
fully tested their brews, and often, to prove them honest... There are
shades of exotic and ethnic backgrounds in them, but basically they are
still living proofs of the passionate romance between Midwestern housewives
and the Mason jar, which filled shelves with gleaming beautiful vessels of
cooked fruits and vegetables, all dirt cheap in season and as rare as toad
gems in the long winters fed on potatoes, cabbages, and parsnips..."
               --MFK Fisher, With Bold Knife and Fork (1968)

(end of large faq)